Amsoil 5-30W Signature Series Vs Mobil 1 0-30W AFE

^valid points. With B/S labs you just don't know. As far as the intentional shear, that's a theory that's been around for a while and I have no idea if that is true. I've read about that going back to the early 2000's. It's possible they do use a more shear prone VM, but if I'm not mistaken it's a clean VM.

This was from Gokhan:

"My understanding is that OCP is the VII of choice these days, as the star polymers and PMA have a hard time passing the turbocharger-deposit tests, as the former seems to be inherently dirty and the latter requires extremely high solid-polymer treat rates, which in turn increase the deposits."
 
I just switched from Mobil to Amsoil, and I'm impressed with how the engine become more smooth and quiet, especially at high rpm despite there is not too much difference in the HT/HSV parameter, Mobil is 3.0 and Amsoil is 3.11.

The main reason I went to Amsoil is because It can handle long drains, but seems the engine is far more protected too.

The fuel consumption seems Mobil is little better so far.
Might be smoother I'm guessing for having some ester in it and slightly better basestock in Amsoil. It will definitely shine in a non direct injection car that is in good running condition as you will probably get more longevity out of a drain. I would use either; some will say M1 is the better buy/value and others will lean towards a more sophisticated oil that is throwing more towards performance. I bought a bunch of M1 0w30 down in El Dorado awhile ago.because it was stupid cheap, SP rated and taxes are lower plus it was a top off fluid the last few oil changes when I use Redline 0 or 5w30. Both oils are good, one is better but that's for the consumer to decide what product fits their needs
 
I've seen that statement made a couple of times, but where is the evidence it is designed to do so? And mechanical shear? That means an inferior VM, does ExxonMobil really make this oil with a VM that is prone to mechanical shear?

The other issue I have is that most of the UOA on here are from Blackstone and they are incapable of distinguishing between mechanical shear of the VM and fuel dilution. Fuel dilution is much, much more common on most engines. Is there really a base of properly performed UOA that demonstrate this mechanical shear of AFE VII?
I get your point, and unfortunately we don’t have a direct link to the blending philosophy like we do with HPL. It’s an assumption, and we all know what those do. But IIRC we’ve seen several UOAs from labs besides Blackstone that show the AFE series that have low dilution on GC and are out of grade or very close to being so.

I don’t know that I would personally call it “inferior” because Mobil obviously makes some stellar oils, especially considering the cost. But I do believe that part of their marketing promoting the AFE series as the most fuel efficient in their respective grades does seem to support the theory that it’s an intentional feature of their choices. I suppose we could ask @High Performance Lubricants if this theory is possible with their experience in base oils and VIIs, but since we know Dave doesn’t take pot shots at other oil manufacturers we may not be able to get a more definitive answer.

Fair enough?
 
Let me attempt to make some sense of these posts. I have owned (with 98% certainty) way more vehicles than a multiple of you folks all together. I've raced, owned a sizable business that required vehicles, and collected over the years. I used to sell Amsoil, and of course used what I sold. Used it in large diesel boats, many motorcycles for street and race, in old classics and new Ferraris. It's a great product, as most popular syn oils are. Over time, with many engine tear downs, observing others dealing with their engine/transmission related issues I have come to the conclusion thru experience and scientific evidence that regular, more frequent oil changes with less expensive products is a better approach. I've has too many vehicles that have encountered fuel dilution at 8-10K miles, and a build up up very fine particles that escape normal filtration. Amsoil with a bypass filter is a great idea. Unfortunately, it's hard to find a home for these guys in many engine bays. At this time I'll get to my point; I can purchase a good API approved high quality product for $4 qt. or less and a diester Euro oil in bulk for $6.50 qt. which makes more frequent changes highly affordable. And, if you're going to keep your lovely ride for an extended period of time, I feel you are far better off following my experience. I've witnessed first hand, Toyotas, 5L, 3.5, 2.7 Ford engines trashed.... not to mention a freight car of small turbo 3-4 cyl turbo engines eaten up by extended oil changes. When you see Toyota 2.5L 4's at 125K miles with locked rings, badly scuffed piston skirts, worn/scared bearings all from following the manufacturers recommendations .... Don't. Their job is to get you past 60K miles without filing a claim. I began using syn oil in the early 70's which was then "Royal Trident" and we know today as Royal Purple. I used it in my weekend racer a modified TR6. I immediately experienced the benefits of advanced chemistry. But, lots of things happen to an engine that the oil itself has nothing to do with. Out of over 75 vehicles I've not experience a single case of oil related failure. I have not repaired an engine, transmission, or diff out of warranty. And here's what you don't want to hear, 95% of all repairs are all or in part user induced. A close friend had a '65 Vette, 327 x 350 HP, 4 speed for 465K miles without a rebuilt. He used Quaker State straight 20W in Winter, and 30W in summer. Straight weights virtually have no VI improvers. Good quality earth juice, now wax removed, has up to 40% syn in light weigh versions will get you thru 100K miles with no problem. I know, I recently sold my '69 Buick "Duce and Quarter" with a 430 Cu.In./365HP and at 54 yrs has never been repaired.
 
Let me attempt to make some sense of these posts. I have owned (with 98% certainty) way more vehicles than a multiple of you folks all together. I've raced, owned a sizable business that required vehicles, and collected over the years. I used to sell Amsoil, and of course used what I sold. Used it in large diesel boats, many motorcycles for street and race, in old classics and new Ferraris. It's a great product, as most popular syn oils are. Over time, with many engine tear downs, observing others dealing with their engine/transmission related issues I have come to the conclusion thru experience and scientific evidence that regular, more frequent oil changes with less expensive products is a better approach. I've has too many vehicles that have encountered fuel dilution at 8-10K miles, and a build up up very fine particles that escape normal filtration. Amsoil with a bypass filter is a great idea. Unfortunately, it's hard to find a home for these guys in many engine bays. At this time I'll get to my point; I can purchase a good API approved high quality product for $4 qt. or less and a diester Euro oil in bulk for $6.50 qt. which makes more frequent changes highly affordable. And, if you're going to keep your lovely ride for an extended period of time, I feel you are far better off following my experience. I've witnessed first hand, Toyotas, 5L, 3.5, 2.7 Ford engines trashed.... not to mention a freight car of small turbo 3-4 cyl turbo engines eaten up by extended oil changes. When you see Toyota 2.5L 4's at 125K miles with locked rings, badly scuffed piston skirts, worn/scared bearings all from following the manufacturers recommendations .... Don't. Their job is to get you past 60K miles without filing a claim. I began using syn oil in the early 70's which was then "Royal Trident" and we know today as Royal Purple. I used it in my weekend racer a modified TR6. I immediately experienced the benefits of advanced chemistry. But, lots of things happen to an engine that the oil itself has nothing to do with. Out of over 75 vehicles I've not experience a single case of oil related failure. I have not repaired an engine, transmission, or diff out of warranty. And here's what you don't want to hear, 95% of all repairs are all or in part user induced. A close friend had a '65 Vette, 327 x 350 HP, 4 speed for 465K miles without a rebuilt. He used Quaker State straight 20W in Winter, and 30W in summer. Straight weights virtually have no VI improvers. Good quality earth juice, now wax removed, has up to 40% syn in light weigh versions will get you thru 100K miles with no problem. I know, I recently sold my '69 Buick "Duce and Quarter" with a 430 Cu.In./365HP and at 54 yrs has never been repaired.
I'm lost. Are you promoting monograde oils?

Is Amsoil good or bad?

Is Royal Purple good or bad?

What is your recommended OCI if manufacturer recommended intervals are only to get you to 60,000 miles? Does it matter what oil you're using?
 
No. Actually you haven't.

Not extended oil changes. Perhaps lack of maintenance, ignorance, negligence.
Even with 75 vehicles, that doesn’t even come close to the fleets that many oil manufacturers have done tests on.

We’ve got at least two oil companies (@High Performance Lubricants and @Foxtrot08) and @Pablo as an inside view into those companies, and the oil companies themselves are telling us they’re making oils that can go longer than even manufacturer recommendations and still protect customers’ engines. They’ve also got data from fleets with THOUSANDS of vehicles that are running 2-5x manufacturer recommendations and significantly lower issues than the general public.

The interesting thing is on its face, this is not in the best financial interest of the oil companies, because the increased life of their oils means they sell less product, and in most cases this makes their products cheaper than commodity oils. Where they really start to cash in is when their oils’ performance shows its worth, and those customers begin to switch all their vehicles (especially those with fleets) over to their oils and other fluids.

Therefore, I tend to believe those oil manufacturers because if there were an oil-related issue (even if it was incorrectly perceived to be an oil problem), the loss of business would be devastating. Therefore, they tend to underpromise and over-deliver, even when their extended recommendations may make a suspicious person pause.

So, while 75 vehicles is an impressive sample size for personal data, because it pales in comparison to the sample sizes the oil manufacturers have tested and proven their products on, I choose to pick manufacturers who tell me why their oil is more expensive up front and how their approach to oil performance offsets that cost. The smaller (I refuse to call a company that sells millions of gallons of oil per year a “boutique” supplier) companies have more incentive to deliver products that are set apart from commodity oils, and share their benefits with customers.
 
I am looking to forward to folks experience with the triple action 0W30. Can't really make conclusions based on the old version. I have had good luck with the old formula in a 3.5 V6 Explorer.
 
I am looking to forward to folks experience with the triple action 0W30. Can't really make conclusions based on the old version. I have had good luck with the old formula in a 3.5 V6 Explorer.
Just put my second Frankenblend of Mobil 1 0w-30 in my Maverick Hybrid. All three were Triple Action. In 7749 miles it used between 1/4 to 1/3 qt. Oil still had a red tinge while draining when it was backlit by sunshine. Going to send the second batch in to WIX analysis for a UOA .It will be a while though.
 
No. Actually you haven't.

Not extended oil changes. Perhaps lack of maintenance, ignorance, negligence.
Frankly, you've got a lot of nerve telling people what they didn't see. I have a close friend who followed Toyota's 10K recommendations and at 132K is was using a lot of oil. When it was broken down the rings were locked, piston sleeves were scuffed, and there was a lot of varnish and deposits. He took it to the dealer religiously for service. I am sure they used the Toyota brand oil? I have a GR86 that calls for 7500 mile service. I changed oil at 1200 miles. Have 2400 miles on it now and plan to change it again at 3K. The dealer will see it at 7K. I will do an oil analysis at that point o I can establish a base standard. All I can say is my system is tried and true and has never failed. I am not about to alter it.
 
Frankly, you've got a lot of nerve telling people what they didn't see. I have a close friend who followed Toyota's 10K recommendations and at 132K is was using a lot of oil. When it was broken down the rings were locked, piston sleeves were scuffed, and there was a lot of varnish and deposits. He took it to the dealer religiously for service. I am sure they used the Toyota brand oil? I have a GR86 that calls for 7500 mile service. I changed oil at 1200 miles. Have 2400 miles on it now and plan to change it again at 3K. The dealer will see it at 7K. I will do an oil analysis at that point o I can establish a base standard. All I can say is my system is tried and true and has never failed. I am not about to alter it.
What about the questions I asked?
 
Frankly, you've got a lot of nerve telling people what they didn't see. I have a close friend who followed Toyota's 10K recommendations and at 132K is was using a lot of oil. When it was broken down the rings were locked, piston sleeves were scuffed, and there was a lot of varnish and deposits. He took it to the dealer religiously for service. I am sure they used the Toyota brand oil? I have a GR86 that calls for 7500 mile service. I changed oil at 1200 miles. Have 2400 miles on it now and plan to change it again at 3K. The dealer will see it at 7K. I will do an oil analysis at that point o I can establish a base standard. All I can say is my system is tried and true and has never failed. I am not about to alter it.
What engine was this? The 2AZ-FE 4 cylinder is *WELL* known to have oil consumption issues, and it's not due to a lack of oil changes. There was a design problem with the pistons and oil control rings that led to oil not draining from the piston/rings, which coked the oil up and froze the ring. Toyota issued a service bulletin that stipulated a change of piston assemblies should the engine fail an oil consumption test.

If extended OCIs caused massive problems, we'd be seeing loads of dead vehicles on the road and shops buying engines left and right. And...we aren't. With the exception of some Hyundai/Kia vehicles, overall engines are more reliable now than they have ever been, and the average mileage on cars is going up, not down. Everything seen on a larger scale in the real world reflects that short OCIs have next to no benefit for the average user.
 
Frankly, you've got a lot of nerve telling people what they didn't see. I have a close friend who followed Toyota's 10K recommendations and at 132K is was using a lot of oil. When it was broken down the rings were locked, piston sleeves were scuffed, and there was a lot of varnish and deposits. He took it to the dealer religiously for service. I am sure they used the Toyota brand oil? I have a GR86 that calls for 7500 mile service. I changed oil at 1200 miles. Have 2400 miles on it now and plan to change it again at 3K. The dealer will see it at 7K. I will do an oil analysis at that point o I can establish a base standard. All I can say is my system is tried and true and has never failed. I am not about to alter it.
Well I admit to not having the best manners and tact, and I do apologize but I am simply not wrong. And sometimes I do things to get people's attention and write in proper terms, using correct words.

In this case, this case that you just now detail, was not an extended oil change at all. By changing oil early you are simply band-aiding a design problem.
 
I just switched from Mobil to Amsoil, and I'm impressed with how the engine become more smooth and quiet, especially at high rpm despite there is not too much difference in the HT/HSV parameter, Mobil is 3.0 and Amsoil is 3.11.

The main reason I went to Amsoil is because It can handle long drains, but seems the engine is far more protected too.

The fuel consumption seems Mobil is little better so far.
Pretty much seat of your pants, subjective "feeling". Not born out by any UOA results.
 
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