hey whats up everyone..i just read on another forum from an amsoil dealer that amsoil is going to release a 10w30 motorcycle oil on august 1st..has anybody heard anything about this??
Amsoil 10w30 motorcycle oil
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I think I read the same thing somewhere a few months ago.
What is the application? With most liquid cooled bikes calling for 10w40...... Why would one use 10w30?
I suppose I am thinking it is a similiar reason, as to why the likes of Ford and Toyota are now allowing 0w20 in their engines....fuel effeciency.
Thoughts?
PostScript.... Ok, I have since learned that Goldwings require 10w30. Would 10w30 not be appropriate for engines that also lube the tranny?
I suppose I am thinking it is a similiar reason, as to why the likes of Ford and Toyota are now allowing 0w20 in their engines....fuel effeciency.
Thoughts?
PostScript.... Ok, I have since learned that Goldwings require 10w30. Would 10w30 not be appropriate for engines that also lube the tranny?
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Honda specs 10W-30 on some of its recent models.
Gold Wing in particular.
Gold Wing in particular.
I can't believe I missed this thread. Someone through a rock at me every so often....
Amsoil MCT 10W-30
Amsoil MCT 10W-30
Can you run this a car? A lot of the "not enough ZDDP in SM oil" people should love the specs of this oil.
HTHS 3.5 is good for the same people.
NOACK is killer.
HTHS 3.5 is good for the same people.
NOACK is killer.
It would work fine in a car - assuming a high SAPS oil is OK.
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
So would it be a bad idea to run Amsoil 10w30 in a bike spec'd for 10w40?
Depends on the bike. May be on the thin side, yet some bikes do fine on a sheared 40. Others really seem to need the higher viscosity.
So would it be a bad idea to run Amsoil 10w30 in a bike spec'd for 10w40?
Depends on the bike. May be on the thin side, yet some bikes do fine on a sheared 40. Others really seem to need the higher viscosity.
any 10w40 you run , will probably become a 30 weight by a thousand miles any way, so what's the point?
My bike spec's 10W30 in temps below x degrees. 10W40 is spec'd otherwise.
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
any 10w40 you run , will probably become a 30 weight by a thousand miles any way, so what's the point?
The point is at least you start shearing down from a 40W instead of a 30W....You get more room to shear without getting into dangerous territory....
any 10w40 you run , will probably become a 30 weight by a thousand miles any way, so what's the point?
The point is at least you start shearing down from a 40W instead of a 30W....You get more room to shear without getting into dangerous territory....
Originally Posted By: whitesands
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
any 10w40 you run , will probably become a 30 weight by a thousand miles any way, so what's the point?
The point is at least you start shearing down from a 40W instead of a 30W....You get more room to shear without getting into dangerous territory....
It might work that way, and it might not? If the thick oil is being whipped into a frenzy by the rods in the sump (these things don't have a pan like a car), aerated and foamed repatedly, a thinner oil might not suffer the effect as much. Try putting 40 or 50w in blender, the 10w30. The move is also been to low friction piston ring sets, thin low tension rings don't work as well with thick oil. Not saying thinner is better, but maybe they know what they're doing? Noticed Honda started this 10w30 move a few years back, Goldwing, 900's, VFR are some that I know of. Guys have been using it and, even with the long OCI book specs the bikes seem to be doing fine evidence by some high milers out there. Enough of a market for it now that Amsoil is smart getting a product out there, 10w30 jaso IS hard to find. I've steered guys to straight 30w pcmo that didn't want to buy the dealer gouge Honda oil.
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
any 10w40 you run , will probably become a 30 weight by a thousand miles any way, so what's the point?
The point is at least you start shearing down from a 40W instead of a 30W....You get more room to shear without getting into dangerous territory....
It might work that way, and it might not? If the thick oil is being whipped into a frenzy by the rods in the sump (these things don't have a pan like a car), aerated and foamed repatedly, a thinner oil might not suffer the effect as much. Try putting 40 or 50w in blender, the 10w30. The move is also been to low friction piston ring sets, thin low tension rings don't work as well with thick oil. Not saying thinner is better, but maybe they know what they're doing? Noticed Honda started this 10w30 move a few years back, Goldwing, 900's, VFR are some that I know of. Guys have been using it and, even with the long OCI book specs the bikes seem to be doing fine evidence by some high milers out there. Enough of a market for it now that Amsoil is smart getting a product out there, 10w30 jaso IS hard to find. I've steered guys to straight 30w pcmo that didn't want to buy the dealer gouge Honda oil.
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Rotella come in 10W-30.
I have been out of the loop for a little while now, so hearing about the 10w30 mc oil is new to me. But what was even more new/shocking to me was the increase in pricing on the amsoil site! Holy [censored] almost $11 a qt now. I know this is old news to you guys. Im just still in shock. I use amsoil now in everything i own,but this will surely make me want to start pricing Mobil1 mc oil from my local autozone.
hey my R6 calls for 10w30, but i can also use 20w40...so i've been using amsoil 10w40 in it but i'm tempted to try the 10w30..i've just never really been able to find it..i found some redline 10w30 but they wanted like 14 dollars a quart so i said screw that
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