6 month OCI. Blackstone notes concern with copper. EaO 42 oil filter in place for this OCI. K&N air filter in place since 200 miles on vehicle. Blackstone suggests K&N filter might be the problem. I have removed K&N and installed OEM air filter.
Amsoil 10w-30, 3177 miles, Pacifica 4.0L 6
- Thread starter TopJimmy
- Start date
- Status
6 month OCI. Blackstone notes concern with copper. EaO 42 oil filter in place for this OCI. K&N air filter in place since 200 miles on vehicle. Blackstone suggests K&N filter might be the problem. I have removed K&N and installed OEM air filter.
Good call, get the OEM paper back on there. The mileage on the motor is still really low, so I would think that there is still some wear-in going on and less of a filter issue, IMO.
Look at your first analysis after only 600 miles - the high Cu is clearly characteristic of this engine while new. Expect it to dissipate over time ....
You can't make a reasoned judgement on the K&N based ok these two analyses - I'd leave it on for now.
You can't make a reasoned judgement on the K&N based ok these two analyses - I'd leave it on for now.
Quote:
"Look at your first analysis after only 600 miles - the high Cu is clearly characteristic of this engine while new. Expect it to dissipate over time ....
You can't make a reasoned judgement on the K&N based ok these two analyses - I'd leave it on for now."
Yeah, but what about the 29ppm of silicon after only 3K miles. Isn't that the air filter letting dirt in?
"Look at your first analysis after only 600 miles - the high Cu is clearly characteristic of this engine while new. Expect it to dissipate over time ....
You can't make a reasoned judgement on the K&N based ok these two analyses - I'd leave it on for now."
Yeah, but what about the 29ppm of silicon after only 3K miles. Isn't that the air filter letting dirt in?
Last edited by a moderator:
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,798
You would normally think so...but...
The uptake of resident elements can take a while. It's not like you're going to put in new oil and have wear in shedding Cu instantly spike to its higher level ..the same with leaching silicon.
The uptake of resident elements can take a while. It's not like you're going to put in new oil and have wear in shedding Cu instantly spike to its higher level ..the same with leaching silicon.
Why are you useing Amsoil when you are running 3,000 mile oil changes? Do not get me started on K@N air filters. There really isn't ann good reason to do a uoa on a new engine unless a problem is suspected .If you want to trend your uoas do one at 10,000 miles All you are doing is looking at breakin wear and wasting $$$ . Amsoil is the oil to use for long oil change intervals read their literature.
Originally Posted By: TopJimmy
"Why are you useing Amsoil when you are running 3,000 mile oil changes?"
I am doing a 6 month OCI. I am not doing this based on mileage. I am just staying within what is required to keep my warranty intact.
Why not use their XL line? Doesn't seem cost effective IMO to keep using their full synthetic for that low of mileage... Especially since you're following the 6 month guideline for your warranty with only 3,000 miles, seems like a good idea to me
"Why are you useing Amsoil when you are running 3,000 mile oil changes?"
I am doing a 6 month OCI. I am not doing this based on mileage. I am just staying within what is required to keep my warranty intact.
Why not use their XL line? Doesn't seem cost effective IMO to keep using their full synthetic for that low of mileage... Especially since you're following the 6 month guideline for your warranty with only 3,000 miles, seems like a good idea to me
i agree with the others, you could use either:
-the xl series and do 6 month intervals and save $$$
-dino for 6 month intervals and save $
-any over the counter syn and do 6 month intervals and save $
do you really need syn in the mornings in TX? I could see if wanted to extend the oci's
in the end it all comes down to what you want to do and what makes you feel good. It is your money and if YOU want to run amsoil go ahead, no one can look down on you for that and wanting the best!
-the xl series and do 6 month intervals and save $$$
-dino for 6 month intervals and save $
-any over the counter syn and do 6 month intervals and save $
do you really need syn in the mornings in TX? I could see if wanted to extend the oci's
in the end it all comes down to what you want to do and what makes you feel good. It is your money and if YOU want to run amsoil go ahead, no one can look down on you for that and wanting the best!
Originally Posted By: TopJimmy
I am doing a 6 month OCI. I am not doing this based on mileage. I am just staying within what is required to keep my warranty intact.
Since this Amsoil oil is not API certified and your car is probably asking for it, your warranty is void anyway.
The XL oil is the ONLY certified oil in the Amsoil line.
I am doing a 6 month OCI. I am not doing this based on mileage. I am just staying within what is required to keep my warranty intact.
Since this Amsoil oil is not API certified and your car is probably asking for it, your warranty is void anyway.
The XL oil is the ONLY certified oil in the Amsoil line.
Originally Posted By: Pesca
Since this Amsoil oil is not API certified and your car is probably asking for it, your warranty is void anyway.
The XL oil is the ONLY certified oil in the Amsoil line.
Neither of these are the truth.
Using an non-API oil does NOT void your warranty.
PCO is API CI-4+, CF, CF-2, SL.
Since this Amsoil oil is not API certified and your car is probably asking for it, your warranty is void anyway.
The XL oil is the ONLY certified oil in the Amsoil line.
Neither of these are the truth.
Using an non-API oil does NOT void your warranty.
PCO is API CI-4+, CF, CF-2, SL.
Does this oil have a starbust on the bottle?
It is stated in my manual that this logo has to be on it for me to use it and not void the warranty.
That is why I will have to wait 4 more years to order you some.
It is stated in my manual that this logo has to be on it for me to use it and not void the warranty.
That is why I will have to wait 4 more years to order you some.
The silicon is way too high. The way it works here, you want the dealer to rebuild your engine under warrantee? Most of them give me the oil to analyze. You show up with high silicon and a non standard air filter, forget the claim. Oil they won't quibble about, but dirt yes.
Get rid of the K&N filter. I know there are fanatics who love them, and if you get the oil exactly right, maybe you can come close to reasonable filtration for a paved environment, but not for anything else.
Get rid of the K&N filter. I know there are fanatics who love them, and if you get the oil exactly right, maybe you can come close to reasonable filtration for a paved environment, but not for anything else.
Originally Posted By: widman
The silicon is way too high. The way it works here, you want the dealer to rebuild your engine under warrantee? Most of them give me the oil to analyze. You show up with high silicon and a non standard air filter, forget the claim. Oil they won't quibble about, but dirt yes.
Get rid of the K&N filter. I know there are fanatics who love them, and if you get the oil exactly right, maybe you can come close to reasonable filtration for a paved environment, but not for anything else.
Uh, if you read my orginal post, you will see the K&N has been removed.
And how do we suddenly jump to needing my engine rebuilt that has 9500 miles on it because the silicon is high?
You lost me there.
The silicon is way too high. The way it works here, you want the dealer to rebuild your engine under warrantee? Most of them give me the oil to analyze. You show up with high silicon and a non standard air filter, forget the claim. Oil they won't quibble about, but dirt yes.
Get rid of the K&N filter. I know there are fanatics who love them, and if you get the oil exactly right, maybe you can come close to reasonable filtration for a paved environment, but not for anything else.
Uh, if you read my orginal post, you will see the K&N has been removed.
And how do we suddenly jump to needing my engine rebuilt that has 9500 miles on it because the silicon is high?
You lost me there.
If you look at the first UOA at 6ppm Si and the second at 29ppm, the Si per mile is basically identical, which is consistent with Si being common in break-in for tens of thousands of miles, mainly from sealants used in engine assembly. So I would not be so quick to suspect the K&N filter - I have seen excellent results from K&Ns on this site, as well as some bad ones. The important thing seems to be not to clean the filter too often - it relies on fine particulates adhering to the oiled gauze to create an efficient filtering medium.
It's hard to evaluate metals numbers early in an engine's life because some break in with very low metals and others throw out a lot. If it were my car I'd be doing frequent conventional-oil OCIs until things settle down, and just to eliminate the extra variable I would leave the K&N out, temporarily.
It's hard to evaluate metals numbers early in an engine's life because some break in with very low metals and others throw out a lot. If it were my car I'd be doing frequent conventional-oil OCIs until things settle down, and just to eliminate the extra variable I would leave the K&N out, temporarily.
Pardon my ignorance, but why is TBN "only" 3.3 after just barely 3,000 miles? Where does TBN start with that oil? Does a new engine (still breaking in) degrade TBN faster than one that's worn-in? I don't see the potential for real long OCIs with that oil with a 3.3 TBN after 3,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: glennc
If you look at the first UOA at 6ppm Si and the second at 29ppm, the Si per mile is basically identical, which is consistent with Si being common in break-in for tens of thousands of miles, mainly from sealants used in engine assembly. So I would not be so quick to suspect the K&N filter - I have seen excellent results from K&Ns on this site, as well as some bad ones. The important thing seems to be not to clean the filter too often - it relies on fine particulates adhering to the oiled gauze to create an efficient filtering medium.
It's hard to evaluate metals numbers early in an engine's life because some break in with very low metals and others throw out a lot. If it were my car I'd be doing frequent conventional-oil OCIs until things settle down, and just to eliminate the extra variable I would leave the K&N out, temporarily.
Thank you for the insightful explanation and I really appreciate the advice!
If you look at the first UOA at 6ppm Si and the second at 29ppm, the Si per mile is basically identical, which is consistent with Si being common in break-in for tens of thousands of miles, mainly from sealants used in engine assembly. So I would not be so quick to suspect the K&N filter - I have seen excellent results from K&Ns on this site, as well as some bad ones. The important thing seems to be not to clean the filter too often - it relies on fine particulates adhering to the oiled gauze to create an efficient filtering medium.
It's hard to evaluate metals numbers early in an engine's life because some break in with very low metals and others throw out a lot. If it were my car I'd be doing frequent conventional-oil OCIs until things settle down, and just to eliminate the extra variable I would leave the K&N out, temporarily.
Thank you for the insightful explanation and I really appreciate the advice!
- Status
Similar threads
