Am I pushing Mobil1 5w30 over it's limits @ 6000miles?

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If you want the oil to be more robust than M1 5W30, and cheaper as well, I would suggest, as a fellow Canadian, that you check out Esso XD-3 0W30.

With what you save on a fill or two of XD-3 0W30 versus Mobil-1 5W-30, you should be almost able to afford at least one UOA.
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As for FRAM filters, yes, there are better filters out there, but most of the alleged 'problems' are mostly unsubstantiated. I would run a FRAM filter with confidence for at least the OCI specified in the owners manual under 'regular service'.
 
I'd use the higher TBN, Mobil 1, 0w-40 and change it every six months, regardless of the # of kilometers on the sample....

Tooslick
 
I must second the concern about the life of the oil filter. I have contended for years that the oil will out live the filter, especially the Fram. If you must use a Fram, at least change the filter every 3000 miles, IMHO.
 
I think Soot is a contaminant. If not, then where is it listed in any Virgin Oil analysis??????

I eliminate alot of it's buildup by changing the oil more often sometimes. After every 30K or so - or whenever my dipstick turns black before 1K of my latest oil change, I'll shorten that present OCI... possibly the next OCI too - until my dipstick remains clear beyond 1K of my normal dino 3K OCI.

If it takes two consecutive 1.5K OCIs to do it... so be it. Keep in mind I'm first & last owner of all my vehicles. If I leased or only kept my cars for half their life (125K or-so), then I'd undergo longer OCIs.

My 250K lifetime expectancy is based on body rust. I usually drive my cars to the junkyard.... leaving a trail of rust on the highway... lol
 
well, let me be the dissenting voice. i ran m1 5w-30 for a few oci's up to 7500 miles, and the results, while not fatal, weren't that impressive.

results here

i have better ppm numbers running pennzoil dino (with a quart of pennz "synthetic") to 5000 miles than i do with m1.
 
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Are we talking about M1 EP or the non-EP version of 5w-30? I believe the commercial refers to the M1 EP as the 15k/1 year OCI oil. I could certainly be wrong.
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Just the Mobil 1 Supersyn 5w30. I can't seem to find the Mobil1 EP 5w30 here yet.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 626LX2.0LATX1998:
i can't seem to find XD-3 0w30 in Canadian tire/walmart. Plus my car asks for 5w30 in winter and 10w30 summer.

Try at an Esso/Imperial Oil bulk lubricants dealer. 0W-30 viscosity is the same as 5W30/10W30 with the exception of improved cold start performance. Otherwise, at operating temperatures, the oils are identically thick (in fact the 0W30 is sometimes slightly thicker).

XD-3 0W30 is a full PAO synthetic, and usually costs slightly under $4/L.
 
quote:

i can't seem to find XD-3 0w30 in Canadian tire/walmart.

Finally you assured me that you are indeed in Canada ..there is a Tonronto California (as well as many others in the USA).

Everyone, except TS, is ignoring your winter climate, IMHO. That's why I asserted that a biannual OCI ..perhaps weighted to being shorter in the winter OCI, would work well. You do a decent amount of highway driving (is 18k right?) ..so the impact on the oil, assuming everything is mechanically sound, is very light.

I wouldn't worry about whether the M1 is the EP formula or not. This will last you a long time under this service duty with minimal expense.
 
Another concern... I know that Mobil 1 5w30 supersyn is pure synthetic so the oil itself will last a long time... what about the additive? will it last?

Also, if I change my filter (FRAM) @6000 miles, how much added life to oil? I mean if can keep the filter in there till 7500 miles and be fine, how much longer can I keep the oil in there?
 
quote:

Originally posted by 626LX2.0LATX1998:
Another concern... I know that Mobil 1 5w30 supersyn is pure synthetic so the oil itself will last a long time... what about the additive? will it last?


If your worried about the additives, get some LC.
but most likely they will be fine. Get your self a better filter (Purolater are my favorite for the price)
 
quote:

Originally posted by oilyriser:
If your car has hydraulic valve lash adjusters, it needs clean oil to prevent them from getting sticky and causing valvetrain noise at startup. Cheap oil changed often is one way to do this.

How do i know if my car has these? Not to sound dumb but what are they?
 
quote:

Originally posted by 626LX2.0LATX1998:
Another concern... I know that Mobil 1 5w30 supersyn is pure synthetic so the oil itself will last a long time... what about the additive? will it last?

Also, if I change my filter (FRAM) @6000 miles, how much added life to oil? I mean if can keep the filter in there till 7500 miles and be fine, how much longer can I keep the oil in there?


Man, I thought you were in California from the CA abbreviation. We even have a Quebeck in Tennesse. Yep, they spelled it wrong.

You guys are lucky to get the XD-3. You might want to look into that and save some $$$.

You might want to change and spell out Canada
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or we'll keep getting....
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Unfortunately, FRAM is taking over! Other's are

1. Motomaster oil filter (white can in plastic shrink wrap)
2. Quaker state (doesn't carry my filter size)
3. Formula 1 filter (by motomaster, Black box)
4. Fram orange, grey, black and synthetic! filters

Not much to choose from eh!

But I purchased the Mazda OEM filter (a little bigger than fram's PH6607) and putting it after 7500 OCI. Cost is only $1.50CAD more than FRAM.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
I'd use the higher TBN, Mobil 1, 0w-40 and change it every six months, regardless of the # of kilometers on the sample....

Tooslick


OK, who took over TS's computer here?
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I can't believe I'm seeing him recommend M1 0w40 to anyone!
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Surely there has to be something besides a Fram available north of the border. Otherwise this is an ideal condition for, IMHO, a (by common BITOG standards) reasonably extended OCI. TBN depletion should not challenge M1 with this type of driving.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Gary Allan:
Surely there has to be something besides a Fram available north of the border. Otherwise this is an ideal condition for, IMHO, a (by common BITOG standards) reasonably extended OCI. TBN depletion should not challenge M1 with this type of driving.

Last I knew. Wix was made in Cambridge, On. The Car Quest premium brand was Wix and Wix is available at NAPA. He could probably get a NAPA Gold without too much problem. I agree Gary and would suggest a NAPA Gold.
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We know Patman gets K&N also.

The orange wall is taking over North America. Once it become the "official" filter of NASCAR, it's all over.
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