If you are running a super efficient full flow and bypass oil cleaning system, the main reason a person would need to change the oil would be because of acidification and detergent depletion. If you get a oil analysis and determine where these values reside, it makes sense that if you had the correct additives you could alkalize the oil and replace spent detergents. What would these replacement additives be?
Alkalizing oil and detergents
- Thread starter Gokatta
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Adding basic (alkaline) substances to organic acids & greasy substances is a method of saponification - soap production.
Grandma used lye.
Gives "detergent motor oil" a whole new perspective.
Grandma used lye.
Gives "detergent motor oil" a whole new perspective.
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The simple answer is.....When the oil has depleted its additives, it would be cost effective to.......Replace the oil! That way, you are assured of getting a well thought out package of additives, and fresh base stock is part of the deal, at no extra cost.
I like simple answers.
I like simple answers.
You still haven't factor/mention the issue RE: base lubrication oxidation, and the trapped moisture eradication, etc.
For former: you may be able to use higher grade base lubricant in hopes of it lasting longer; for latter, you cannot rid of it entirely while the oil is still in crankcase...
Q.
For former: you may be able to use higher grade base lubricant in hopes of it lasting longer; for latter, you cannot rid of it entirely while the oil is still in crankcase...
Q.
Use a toilet paper bypass oil filter and you'll eliminate moisture which is needed to otherwise produce acid and sludge. Moisture can not make it through the toilet paper, not even the smallest amount, even if suspended in some complicated solution. This part of filtration was very important in the days of non-detergent oil and the first multi-grade oils that were not up to today's standards. Engines in those days that ran non-detergent oil and a toilet paper oil filter did not sludge up and that was a big deal, today not so much.
There are other things you would have to look at in the oil analysis than just TBN/TAN. Wear metals, fuel dilution, and soot % could each individually trigger an oil change.
But there are products out there that can be added to rejuvenate the TBN. It's just better to change the oil. That way you know you're getting a balanced additive package.
But there are products out there that can be added to rejuvenate the TBN. It's just better to change the oil. That way you know you're getting a balanced additive package.
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Not an issue. Additives replenished with top-offs from oil consumption, full flow filter changes, and bypass media changes... which are continuous oil changes in a passive stance!
TBN boosters are available. Also can start with a stout oil.
There is a UOA with the nothing-special MicroGreen filter that went 30k miles with filter changes at 10k and 20k along with 1.5quarts used to top off over the 30k.... I wouldn't fear a 100k oil change interval when using a real bypass. No need to worry about replacement additives, alkalizing the oil, adding detergents....
TBN boosters are available. Also can start with a stout oil.
There is a UOA with the nothing-special MicroGreen filter that went 30k miles with filter changes at 10k and 20k along with 1.5quarts used to top off over the 30k.... I wouldn't fear a 100k oil change interval when using a real bypass. No need to worry about replacement additives, alkalizing the oil, adding detergents....
Thank you all so much for responding so far. In response to Greasymechtech-What are the TBN boosters you would recommend that you are referencing? Is Lye suitable? As well if they (the TBN boosters) are a off the shelf product do you know what is in them that is acting as the TBN booster? I am not looking for 'cost effective' per se. I am searching for solutions to 'environmentally effective" without excessive expense. I have a very developed custom engineered full flow and bypass filtration system that I have been working with for a while now. I also have pre-lubrication. I have eliminated all disposable filters and am looking to eliminate oil changes to the greatest extent possible. I have a water separator on my fuel lines right after my diesel tank, I will have to look to see if a similar type of oil/water separator exists, or maybe someone here knows of something. The toilet paper thing is cool, but I am not into disposable products as solutions/fixes for issues if it is possible to without to much fuss, adjust something as opposed to replace something.
Did some more research and it seems as though my use of a centrifugal bypass oil filter will take care of much of the water problem. I think in most systems it would not, but with my system I have a separate pump dedicated to the centrifugal bypass filter pulling from the sump, so it is always running at absolute maximum speed. Any other thoughts on this?
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Post pictures of your setup. Also, details of your setup, engine, year make model, pump, centrifugal setup...
Google TBN booster as several are available.
Google TBN booster as several are available.
My set up is a accusump 3qt pre-oiler, a Golan full flow filter all aluminum and stainless steel, with cleanable pleated element. The bypass is a Spinner II Centrifugal powered by a secondary pump running off the crank. I have modified my sump by Tig welding fittings for in/out/and pump overpressure lines. Maybe some other time I can get some pics up. Its part of an experiment for a overall project that I got some funding for a while ago. The engine is a Land Rover inline four cylinder turbo diesel. Which is in a heavily modified Defender 90 Chassis with a 1957 all aluminum series rover body swapped on. Do you know, or does anyone have any ideas as to what specifically is in those TBN boosters? Thats what I really want to find out. As it must be the same cocktail that is in the oil to begin with.
I do know about the DI package aspect of oil blending. I guess I am hoping for some more basic info, for example whats laying around the house or at the hardware store that you could get some of the same qualities out of for restoring the oil, for long term viability. I wonder if some of the TBN modifiers that are for sale are just the raw DI package components bottled?
Liqui-moly motor oil saver is an ester and contains boron. It boosts tbn of any oil enabling longer internals.
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