Akebono ProAct clicking

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Oct 15, 2021
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Installed some ProActs about a year ago in a Nissan Sentra. Only just noticed a single click sound upon applying the brakes in reverse but not forward. I believe it's the pads shifting in the caliper because I can't think of anything else that would click with that pattern. It may have been going on for awhile but I only noticed it recently when I had the window down, otherwise it's too quiet to appreciate. I used the hardware clips included with the ProActs. Anyone else experience this and have any quick fixes? It's not a huge deal otherwise and I'll probably just go OEM the next time I do pads.
 
Are you sure a wheel isn't loose? I've had that happen where I would get a click every time I braked in the opposite direction. It turned out to be a slightly loose wheel.
 
Are you sure a wheel isn't loose? I've had that happen where I would get a click every time I braked in the opposite direction. It turned out to be a slightly loose wheel.
The first time I heard the clicking, I definitely got nervous and checked the lug nuts, caliper bolts and bracket bolts thinking something got loose but all was well.
 
If you want to verify your theory, remove the brake pads and apply a small amount of brake grease to the ears of the pads. If the noise changes or becomes quieter, that's your problem.
 
If you want to verify your theory, remove the brake pads and apply a small amount of brake grease to the ears of the pads. If the noise changes or becomes quieter, that's your problem.
Good idea. Going to try it this weekend
 
Welp I had a revelation that this may have been my own doing. When i installed these pads, they felt uncomfortably tight in the bracket. So tight the return springs weren’t able to do their job. I identified the tight spot as the circled area and used pliers to bend it away from the pad to allow it to move a bit more freely. You can make out a slight crease from this.

I am now realizing that may have been intended to be an intentional tension area to push the pad tight in the downward direction. This is actually the force that would oppose pad movement when braking in reverse.

So now my question is how tight is too tight for a pad to sit? I realize there is a Goldilocks zone. I figure that if the return spring can’t do its job, it’s too tight. Should I not have to bend these hardware at all?

IMG_7512.webp


IMG_7516.webp
 
The only thing I've ever bent on a pad are the wear sensors.

Most disc brake noise is caused by vibration. Lube, "red goop", shims and springs are there to dampen these vibrations caused by pad/caliper fit; not to discount pad/rotor surface.
 
Welp I had a revelation that this may have been my own doing. When i installed these pads, they felt uncomfortably tight in the bracket. So tight the return springs weren’t able to do their job. I identified the tight spot as the circled area and used pliers to bend it away from the pad to allow it to move a bit more freely. You can make out a slight crease from this.

I am now realizing that may have been intended to be an intentional tension area to push the pad tight in the downward direction. This is actually the force that would oppose pad movement when braking in reverse.

So now my question is how tight is too tight for a pad to sit? I realize there is a Goldilocks zone. I figure that if the return spring can’t do its job, it’s too tight. Should I not have to bend these hardware at all?

View attachment 306257

View attachment 306258
I've been working on disk brakes for 55 years, yet I'm having a difficult time visualizing exactly what's in those pictures.

That said, something does not appear right. Aside from tensioning and securing the anti-rattle spring during assembly, I've never had to bend anything, big or small.

As far as pad fit goes - I use a small but stiff stainless steel brush to thoroughly clean the caliper surfaces where the pad ears sit. In every pad change I can remember, the pads had a "free but tight" precision fit. Even an excess blob of paint on the pad ear can cause the pad ears to stick. Always check/clean the ear on the pad.

When properly prepared the pads should slide freely in and out of the calipers, although the fit should be precision. Be sure to check for and eliminate any ridges that might prevent the pad from extending as it wears.

Lastly, I have NEVER used any type of grease or lubricant on the pad/caliper interface. IMO, having a clean and free floating pad/caliper interface and a clean backing plate/caliper piston interface is the most important thing. Grease rules may differ for those who live where there's salt and snow.

IMO, your click is caused by something related to the anti-rattle spring or whatever that shim is in your pictures.

Not throwing stones, just trying to help.

Scott

Edit: Just noticed your pads mount on those stainless steel inserts that seat on the caliper. Even though the caliper is not the sliding surface, that part of the caliper must be clean. Otherwise, the stainless steel insert openings for the pad ears get ever so slightly crimped. - which could cause the pads to bind.
 
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I've had this happen in the past, with Repco pads. It's just the pad shifting inside the caliper, and I never noticed any negative effects other than the noise.

Those applications had calipers that were relatively simple, no fancy shims or springs.
 
Update: OEM clips installed. Clicking is gone. The fitment is better, even with the akebono pads. $60 for the Nissan hardware kit is more than the entire pad kit from Akebono but totally worth it to me for the silence.
 
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