Air cooled Volkswagen oil weight question

[DB_Cooper]

I remember 30W non detergent oil was a spec from VW for average climates..way, way back then. Those engines are not very fussy about oil..any modern 15w40 or thereabouts would be fine.

The most important thing is frequent oil changes. With a filter sump screen that old oil has to be changed. I think VW said every 3000 miles. Do that as a maximum distance for sure.

 

[Kamele0N]

Wouldnt be synthetic oil better choice for air cooled VW engine?

 

[SilverFusion2010]

Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Wouldnt be synthetic oil better choice for air cooled VW engine?


If it had a solid filtration system sure. It doesn't so the oil needs to be changed frequently to get rid of particulates. Dino oil has more than enough add pack to last for a 3k change interval.

The short changes are because of contamination, not because the oil is worn out. A UOA would be interesting to see

 

[Kamele0N]

I am not worried here how long OCI is.....but how well oil protects HOT engine (aircooled!!!)

I have seen many beetles without compression....

 

[Eddie]

I used 10w30 or straight 30 for my 61 Bettle and my 68 Squareback. Never a problem even when family vacations from IL into Yellowstone park in the hot summer.

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Wouldnt be synthetic oil better choice for air cooled VW engine?
I believe so, that's why I always run synthetic now in the 70'. Cleaning out the oil screen when doing an oil change seems much better with synthetic. Doesn't get so full of gunk. And it's an air cooler VW, 99% guaranteed to leak oil, just how it is. Doesn't leak any more than it did before.

 

[bunnspecial]

No direct air-cooled VW experience, but I'll toss in a plug for my much beloved VR-1 20W-50.

It has a robust additive pack that's served me well in sloppy carbureted engines and holds its viscosity well.

 

[FCD]

Originally Posted By: bunnspecial
No direct air-cooled VW experience, but I'll toss in a plug for my much beloved VR-1 20W-50.

It has a robust additive pack that's served me well in sloppy carbureted engines and holds its viscosity well.

+1 for VR1 20W-50
Mobil 1 15W-50 would work too
And the previosuly mentioned 15W-40 HDEO's
Change the oil often.

 

[HouseTiger]

Had Type-1 Bugs (and a Bus for a while) from 1965 through 2005. Ran 'em from Michigan to Florida and places in between. Tried the 10W30 route on a 69 Bug, and it wasn't very pleased. From then on, used 20W50, and always removed the screen for cleaning. You'd be amazed what sort of [censored] that collects despite being as porous as a, well, a screen. Better yet, on my 73 and 74 Super Beetles, I put a spin on oil filter kit on 'em.

 

[Nickdfresh]

15W-40 is a good choice in GA, SAE30 would be fine. Even a 10W-30 HDEO or a 10W-40 HM would also be fine...

 

[SR5]

I have no problem with a 15W40 HDEO, but here is another option for you. It's made for air cooled, 4 stroke engines

Quote:
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 synthetic motorcycle oil is formulated to help offer outstanding protection in four-cycle, V-Twin type engines – particularly those that are air-cooled and tend to run hotter than other types of engines.

 

[vintageant]

+1 for 15W40. Worked on the grueling Peking to Paris Rally, and beyond

 

[hemitruck]

IIRC, 10/40 was the spec oil. I do recall my father using castrol gtx Dino oil. His 73 went 200000 miles. The 68, he gave to my sister with 100000 miles using the same oil.

 

[Tim83]

Another vote for 15w40. Looks like it is the most suitable.

 

[cb4017]

Back in the day my go-to oil was Castrol GTX 20w-50. Now days I would probably use a 15w-40 HDEO of some sort.

 

[BrocLuno]

I think I see a trend here ... My last air-cooled VW got Delo400 15W-40 and it's still running as far as I know

 

[oliveoil]

Any 10w-40 or 15w40 will work fine. I had a 67 that I ran 10w-30 year round and never had an oil related issue in 80k.

 

[udidwht]

A Type-1 engine in a bug or bus (especially bus) will need a rebuild long before reaching 100K in stock configuration. The saddles will be wore out greatly and need an align bore every rebuild. Now...with the Type-4 engine (miles ahead) you'll not have to worry about align boring (all aluminum block vs magnesium block) and will get well over 100K out of the engine if maintained. As for oil the general rule with these engines is to shoot for 10psi per 1000rpm's at operating temp. If the engine was rebuilt properly you'll be able to achieve that with a 10W-30 motor oil.

As for oil be sure and choose one that has at least 1000ppm of zinc/phos. Do not get crazy high with the level because it will lead to fouled plug issues in these engines.

Oil choice: Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 conventional

When it comes to the Type-4 engine the heads have long been considered the weak link. That can be ruled out today with 2 head builders in mind...

1. Len Hoffman - Hoffman Automotive Machine

2. Adrian Headflow Masters