Patman
Staff member
All this talk of turbos not lasting very long and my son keeps plugging away in his 2002 WRX with its original turbo. It’s at 397,000 km right now! Original engine and transmission too. 
AGAIN...what's the 'best' engine oil for me?
- Thread starter Jeffrey Behr
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RL 5w-40 will shear down fast to a 30, no point doing that.
My vote would be HPL PCEO 5w-30. It looks like it even "meets or exceeds" the "Ford WSS-M2C946-B1" spec which is used by the EB?
From what I understand, there are lots of government trucks running this in their ecoboost F 150's and they can't deny warranty if you're using the same grade.
"That crummy font' is ..... Times New Roman.. ..... sans-serif Arial type face that's default....have small horizontal stubs that allow one to see easier....than this Arial."
Give me Helvetica, or give me death.
Give me Helvetica, or give me death.
Mobil1 EP 5W-30
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ford's recommendation on 5w30 will do.
Do you have a temperature gauge in the Bronco? Does the engine temperature get any higher on a blazing hot day than a cool day? If so, you might think about a higher viscosity oil. For example I run 10w-30 in my OPE during the summer and 5w-30 during the winter because they're air cooled and the engine temps are higher in the summer.
Absolutely. Volvo Turbos were in a different world than, say, Mitsubishi Starions back then. Nobody should ever argue against good driving, cool down periods and the magic potion of frequent oil changes.
If money is no problem you might consider HPL in either a 30 or 40 grade. Otherwise a great choice would be Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 or 5W-30 because of its HTHS of 3.5. It's on the thicker side of the 30 grades. Hope you enjoy your vehicle for its long operational life.
boutique
boutique
You old school turbo guys are wild 
Don’t have it anymore. But 1.5T Ecoboost with 117K miles on mostly syn blend 5W20 changed around 7-8K miles. Ran fine. No issues. Texas weather.
Don’t have it anymore. But 1.5T Ecoboost with 117K miles on mostly syn blend 5W20 changed around 7-8K miles. Ran fine. No issues. Texas weather.
RL 5w40 has a HT/HS of 4.4, so it's not shearing down. Not sure where you got that one from. It will only drop down a grade if there is fuel dilution. RL is still to this day one of the most shear stable oils I've ever seen.
I'd use any of the oils mentioned above so far. Can't go wrong with any of them. Lot of options.
I like Amsoil in a turbo.
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Lot of good oil under $30 per 5qt jug. M1 EP, Castrol EP, PUP, QSUP, to name a few. Any would work well.
That's even better, oil choice doesn't matter if it won't be there for 100k. The wet belt is an oil submerged belt that drives the oil pump and these like the degrade although the newer ones don't degrade as fast as the earlier ones. Still if one wants to own these to or beyond 150k miles that becomes a concern.
And yes I thought it's times new roman but I don't know what it is about reading tnr on a screen but it's terrible but I like reading tnr on paper. Maybe this 1080p monitor isn't enough and it makes it look really fuzzy. I've gotten so used to these modern fonts they're so readable to me. Maybe I just need to upgrade my screen. I imagine 4K ones are way cheaper than they were like 8 years ago when I bought this.
So I'm guessing my 1080p screen is bad because anything but this font this website uses looks bad. Times new roman is somewhat unreadable on this screen. It's so pixelated and fuzzy. I don't know what helvetica is I'll have see how that looks.
I remember 4K monitors being super expensive long ago but now I'm seeing them for 200 bucks new from brand names I recognize and the ones on Amazon are both shipped and sold by Amazon so I trust them.
Are 4k monitors really this cheap now? should I just upgrade now instead of waiting for a sale which might only bring it down 20 bucks? This 1080p screen is a bit pixelated but I just dealt with it for so long. Maybe I should just upgrade my monitor.
The only thing that I'm seeing is that a bunch of these monitors are gaming monitors. Is there a downside to buying a gaming monitor if it won't be used for gaming.
I remember 4K monitors being super expensive long ago but now I'm seeing them for 200 bucks new from brand names I recognize and the ones on Amazon are both shipped and sold by Amazon so I trust them.
Are 4k monitors really this cheap now? should I just upgrade now instead of waiting for a sale which might only bring it down 20 bucks? This 1080p screen is a bit pixelated but I just dealt with it for so long. Maybe I should just upgrade my monitor.
The only thing that I'm seeing is that a bunch of these monitors are gaming monitors. Is there a downside to buying a gaming monitor if it won't be used for gaming.
I had no idea you could change fonts in the browser. I looked up font in chrome settings and it popped up, guess I'll be playing around with this for a while. I'll see if I can make it a little bit bigger as I think that should help with my low resolution.
At 70HP per cylinder, that engine is within load carrying limits for a quality synthetic 5W-30 oil. Especially considering the ample rod bearing diameter of that engine (that 3L is pretty much a big bore/long stroke version of the 2.7L EB) Note: Very little time is spent at high load for most drivers, unless you tow or road race.
HP per cylinder is a non scientific yet viable way to asses viscosity needs, as once we exceed 80+ HP per cyl, viscosity needs become front and center. If you are going to add 90HP with a tune, don't stick with 5W-30. That puts you over 83HP/cyl and into the 40 viscosity realm.
The Ford oil spec is nothing unusual, but keep in mind the Kevlar wet oil pump belt might not hold up as well with unusual spec oils. With regard to the belt, clean oil is key!!! Change oil frequently. Fuel contamination, particulates and by products all degrade the belt.
The good news is you probably won't be road racing your Bronco in 112ºF weather. My initial suggestion: M1, 5W-30EP, no more than 5K per oil change.
HP per cylinder is a non scientific yet viable way to asses viscosity needs, as once we exceed 80+ HP per cyl, viscosity needs become front and center. If you are going to add 90HP with a tune, don't stick with 5W-30. That puts you over 83HP/cyl and into the 40 viscosity realm.
The Ford oil spec is nothing unusual, but keep in mind the Kevlar wet oil pump belt might not hold up as well with unusual spec oils. With regard to the belt, clean oil is key!!! Change oil frequently. Fuel contamination, particulates and by products all degrade the belt.
The good news is you probably won't be road racing your Bronco in 112ºF weather. My initial suggestion: M1, 5W-30EP, no more than 5K per oil change.
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From my memory based on UOA's, it does shear down. Guys on the ramforum have tried this.
Agreed....I'd probably run a Euro 5w30 like Mobil ESP, Pennzoil Euro or Castrol Euro if that were my Raptor but your suggestions are also dead on IMO.
Doubt it. It's one of the most shear stable oils you can buy. I think you're thinking of a 0w40.
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