AGAIN...what's the 'best' engine oil for me?

My 2018 turbo doesn't have an aux pump, I don't think a single Hyundai/Kia turbo does. It only has the water cooling jacket in the turbo to boil on shut down.

If I have been on repeated high boost before I shut down, which is often. I make sure I have a 1.5 to 2 minute cool down time of at least 1,500 rpm+ before shutting down. Idling won't do it, because of lack of turbo water flow at idle, so while going to the final destination I go to dual clutch/manual mode and keep rpms up, as an example going into a parking ramp.
Bummer. My VW does...hear it humming after shutdown.
 
Modern turbos have aux cooling pumps after shutdown to deal with this issue. I have one. This is old-school stuff that isn't necessary on a modern turbo engine. 1985? We had a non-intercooled Chrysler Laser.
It’s a fair point. Folks back then knew turbos would go 30-40k and would be replaced. Folks avoided turbos for that reason. We have also moved ahead on oil technology, too.
 
Any highland Scotch with one small ice cube to chill it just a bit, or if the glass is chilled instead even better. Everyone knows this. What do I win?

As for the oil, if its in warranty I would run what the manual suggests, even if its unlikely to matter.
You keep that in freezer. No diluting!
 
That's a super cool vehicle! Very nice!

Of course, this is an oil forum, so we split hairs on what's best. Honestly, just about any oil that meets Fords specs will be fine. The radiator should keep temps in check. If that vehicle has a coolant gauge, you may want to verify my assumption.

To me, I'd rather use off the shelf oil, compared to boutique oils, but change at 5000 miles. Maybe 7500 if you drive lots of highway miles. Good luck with your decision, though.
 
After shutdown coolant pumps aren't a VW-only thing. Many vehicles have them. I guess the Koreans aren't on board 🤣
Honda only gives it's owners of the Honda Civic R an aux pump, none for the Si, and every other turbo they produce, get the aux pump. Must be an Asian thing.
 
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It almost doesn't matter what you use that wet belt will be the issue and the reason the engine will need to be torn into near or after 150k. I'd be weary of using anything that claims to be high mileage or anything like that. I believe the plasticizers will degrade the belt even faster than oils without the added plasticizers. So with that I'd use at least a full syn 5w-30 but change every 3k but I'd use something like M1 ESP 0/5w-30 instead. Also what's with with that crummy font, It's a bit harder to read.
 
Modern turbos have aux cooling pumps after shutdown to deal with this issue. I have one. This is old-school stuff that isn't necessary on a modern turbo engine. 1985? We had a non-intercooled Chrysler Laser.
Locomotives have auxiliary turbo pumps that run for several minutes after the engine shuts down for any reason.
I didn’t know that the 60 year old technology finally tricked down to passenger cars and trucks.

Which oil? If money is no object, Chevron Supreme SAE 40.
 
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It almost doesn't matter what you use that wet belt will be the issue and the reason the engine will need to be torn into near or after 150k. I'd be weary of using anything that claims to be high mileage or anything like that. I believe the plasticizers will degrade the belt even faster than oils without the added plasticizers. So with that I'd use at least a full syn 5w-30 but change every 3k but I'd use something like M1 ESP 0/5w-30 instead. Also what's with with that crummy font, It's a bit harder to read.
OK, what's 'that wet belt'? And I'll be long-ago dead and gone by the time that vehicle sees even 100Kmiles.

'That crummy font' is the world-famous and -admired Times New Roman.. In contrast to the sans-serif Arial type face that's default here and in almost-every website, TNR and other 'serif' typefaces have small horizontal stubs that allow one to see, for instance, the difference between the single characters 1, L, and I.. I find it much easier to read than this Arial.
 
Locomotives have auxiliary turbo pumps that run for several minutes after the engine shuts down for any reason.
I didn’t know that the 60 year old technology finally tricked down to passenger cars and trucks.

Which oil? If money is no object, Chevron Supreme SAE 40.
Finally? European turbo vehicles had it at the end of 80’s, beginning of 90’s.
 
It’s a fair point. Folks back then knew turbos would go 30-40k and would be replaced. Folks avoided turbos for that reason. We have also moved ahead on oil technology, too.
I had an '86 Volvo 740 Turbo from new. Kept it for 18 1/2 years and 285,000 km. Still had the original turbo. Sold it to friends. They kept it for 5 more years. The turbo just kept on going.

That turbo wasn't water cooled either (it was in the next model year).

My secrets: Regular oil changes (every 3 months). Let the turbo cool down after a hard run before shutting the engine off. Let the engine warm up on really cold days before using any turbo boost.
 
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