Aftermarket alarm going bad?

[xsports33]

I just got my car back from the body shop a few weeks ago after being rear ended. I don't think they replaced the entire trunk, but it looks brand new and the dynamat i installed a few years ago was still there so i'm sure it's the original piece. Anyway, when i got the car back from them i noticed that my trunk was not locking and unlocking with the rest of the doors as it did when i first gave the car to them. Prior to bringing my car to the body shop the two doors (coupe) and the trunk would lock whenever i used the remote or started the vehicle. And, it would unlock when i pulled the key out or used the remote.

Now, using the remote only the doors unlock and lock, but not the trunk. The trunk status doesn't change, it stayes locked or unlocked depending on how i left it. However, the doors "sense" that the trunk is unlocked so the doors lock, then unlock immediately. I have to push the button twice for it to override and lock leaving the trunk unlocked. When i start the car the same thing happens, it locks, then unlocks sensing that the trunk is still unlocked. The only way i can lock and unlock the trunk is using the key. Funny thing, is when i lock or unlock the trunk using the key i also lock or unlock the doors. So, it's like a one way street. I brought it back to the body shop and said "it was working before i brought it here and now it's not, fix it" they said "we'll take a look". They wen't over all the wiring and volt tested the acctuator in the trunk and no wires are loose and the accuator is getting power (which is probably why i can lock and unlock the doors from the trunk). Using the key in the doors though will only unlock or lock the doors, not the trunk. They said the alarm may be going bad, but they can't be sure because they don't deal with electronics. And, since they didn't touch the alarm or any of the wiring they want to charge me to take it to an electronics specialists to diagonse.

what do you guys think? is the alarm unit going bad or did the shop do something and has no idea how to fix it? they seem like a really good shop and they have phenomenal reviews online. i just want to make sure i'm not getting screwed here.

 

[Jimmy9190]

What year model and make of car is this? Sounds like the central locking system in the car is OK, and the power trunk release is OK too. It sounds to me like the body shop may have disconnected the trunk trigger for the alarm. The trunk either has a light in it or a switch that tells the body control module when the trunk is opened, and an alarm installer can tap into either one of those to make the alarm trigger (acitvate and sound the siren) when the trunk is either opened or if a thief were to pry it open. A way for you to test is to see if the alarm will trigger when the trunk is opened.

Most alarms have 2 negative input trigger wires. One is generally considered to be connected to the door triggers and the other is for the hood and trunk triggers. Not all installers will take the time to connect into the trunk, and they hardly ever connect any type of hood trigger because of the extra time and effort it takes.

What brand of alarm is it, and who did the installation?

 

[mrsilv04]

If it is not working the same way that it was prior to the accident, then it needs to be professionally inspected and repaired if necessary.

I'd call the insurance adjuster that you've been dealing with and explain the issue to him. Then, ask him for approval to take the vehicle back to the shop that originally installed the alarm system for it to be inspected and tested.

Be sure that the adjuster understands that you expect him to cover the charges for the inspection and repair IF the problem was caused by the accident, or from something that the body shop did.

I just got my truck out of the body shop with $8000 in repairs from being rear ended. We've already had two "supplementals" for the repairs on my truck.

 

[xsports33]

The vehicle is a 1995 BMW M3 coupe.

The alarm will trigger when the trunk is open. i looked in the trunk and all the wires are intact. From looking at the wiring scheme, it looks like they tapped into the factory wiring from underneath the steering column.

I'm not sure what brand the alarm is. I found the control unit for the alarm and there is no brand name on it, nor is there a name on the alarm horn. The shop where i bought the vehicle over a decade ago did the installation.

Again, all the wires seem to be intact. Nothing is frayed or became disconnected. The trunk still acctuator still receives power. Because of all this is why i'm led to believe that the actual control unit of the alarm is going bad. Is that an incorrect assesment? should i go to where they installed the alarm and ask them? i'm hesitant to do so beacause i'll obvioulsy have to pay out of pocket vs. having insurance potentially pay for the repair.

I don't think it was caused by the accident because trunk was sitll synced with everything else after the accident and prior to brining it into the body shop

 

[Jimmy9190]

Well there could be a possibility the alarm is bad, but it is not very likely. What is more likely is there is something wrong with the latch on the trunk. The door and trunk latches on BMW and other German cars are like a deadbolt system. Honda's are the same way too. To test whether the door locks work you have to either test the door lock circuits and wires with either the doors closed (which is a real pain) or you have to use a screwdriver and just close the door latches on the open doors. The trunk latch works the same way, and it is my guess that the body shop either had to replace or at least R&R the trunk latch as part of the repairs from your accident. The fact that the trunk release actuator is receiving power has nothing to do with this problem. I think the trunk latch is either not adjusted correctly or there is an electrical connector that is loose or possibly a loose ground wire at the latch that is causing this problem. The doors and trunk negative trigger on your car are all on one circuit. That is to say, there is only one wire that tells the alarm if any one or both of the doors or the trunk is open. That is why the doors automatically unlock after you arm your alarm system. The alarm thinks the trunk is still open.

You could ask the body shop to take a look and adjust the trunk latch or you could take a look at it yourself. Check both halves of the latch-the one on the bottom of the trunk lid and the one down on the inside upper edge of the trunk itseld. See if you can tell if one or the other has been moved and not installed back in the right position or if it might be slightly out of adjustment. None of the wiring under the driver's side of the dash and steering column should have anything to do with this problem either. The wiring done at the steering column is for power to the alarm, ignition voltage input and starter interrupt, if you have that. The connections for the door/trunk inputs and door lock outputs for the alarm should have been done under the passenger's side of the dash, at the factory alarm plug. Even when BMW's came from the factory with no factory alarm installed, they still had the connector for it and all the wiring was already run for the alarm. This was so the dealer could add it for the customer if they wanted it, and it also made it pretty easy to do an aftermarket alarm too. From what you have decribed here, I don't think your alarm is defective.

 

[xsports33]

Thanks for all you help.

The the doors automatically unlock when i arm the system when the trunk is unlocked, not open. Is that what you meant? because, if i lock the trunk manually with the key, then arm the system it stays locked and doesn't automatically unlock. So it senses that the trunk is unlocked, not open.

it was all sycned correctly prior to the repair but after the accident. So, i have a feeling the body shop did something to the trunk, i just can't find it.

 

[xsports33]

now there's a new development. The remote doesn't unlock the doors anymore. It does "beep" and disarm the alarm, but it doesn't unlock the doors or the trunk... However, it does lock them.

what is going on?

 

[Jimmy9190]

Can you post a picture of the remote? It may help in determining what alarm you have and how the door lock interface works. If not, do you use the same button for arm/lock as you do for disarm/unlock? Does the master switch (the driver's door key cylinder, or by having the doors closed and windows down and you press down to lock or pull up to unlock) lock and unlock all the doors and the trunk like it should, and do they all stay in the locked or unlocked position respectively?

If the alarm worked OK after the accident and before the body shop fixed the car, you may be able to have the cost of repairs or a new alarm billed to the body shop through your insurance. It seems to me that if this alarm has to be fixed or replaced, it would be the body shop's responsibility. I know that when I was in the car audio and security business every shop I worked in had a liability to either repair or replace the occasional broken part, or we sent it out to the dealer to have them do the repair and either the installer who was at fault or the shop paid for it.

 

[xsports33]

There are 4 buttons total on the key fob, i only use the top two. The one on the left is to lock and arm, the one on the right is to unlock and disarm. I don't use the bottom two buttons. With the windows down and locking the doors, it locks both doors, but not the trunk (it used to though). If the trunk is locked the doors will stay locked, if the trunk is unlocked then the doors will lock, then immediately unlock.

Here is a few pics of the key fob, the front of the alarm control unit, and the back of it. Hopefully this helps identify the unit.

I'll hear back from the body shop on either Monday or Tuesday if insurance will pick up the tab for the alarm repairs and inspection. I doubt the body shop will pick up the tab since they are already pushing back on me saying they didn't touch it.

 

[Jimmy9190]

That looks like a very old Automate system, which is made by Directed Electronics, the same company that makes Viper alarms. If I remember it right Automate didn't have a logo or name on the remote or the alarm unit, it is strictly a line that was sold and installed on dealership new and used cars. The general public could not buy Automate at retail. It is definitely a Directed Electronics product of some sort, but I don't recognize the remote or the alarm unit. It looks like a replacement remote to me though, but I could be wrong about that. I retired from car audio and alarms 10 years ago. It also almost looks like a Clifford remote, which would make sense because Directed bought Clifford out, I guess that happened 10 or more years ago. I may be wrong on that.

If you really want to check the alarm, remove the 4 pin plug that has the blue and green wires and the purple wire on it. The green is the lock output and blue is unlock. The purple is probably not used. Unplug the plug and cycle the alarm, the alarm should not lock or unlock the car at all. Now with either all the doors shut or the open door latch closed, use a test wire connected to ground, and ground the green wire on that 4 pin plug, the doors should lock, then ground the blue wire and they should unlock. If either of these doesn't happen the alarm is bad, the door lock outputs are defective. They are only a 5 milliamp negative output anyway, which is enough to operate the locks in your car, or to drive external relays to interface with other electronic lock systems.

What you told me about the door locks on the car leads me to really believe something is wrong or disconnected in the trunk. If the body shop won't take care of their mistake, then maybe you could get your insurance to cover the cost of a good car audio/alarm shop to fix it for you. You can visit www.directed.com and use the dealer locator to find a shop in your area. There should be a great many shops, being that you are in California. Let them know you think it's a Directed product of some variety and tell them what happened with the wreck and the body shop. Hopefully they can find the problem without too much trouble. It may wind up you have to get the car to a BMW dealer first so they can check the trunk latch and the wiring, which again maybe the insurance will cover it since the body shop is refusing to take care of it.

Sorry you are having so much trouble with it. Maybe the insurance company will have a talk with the body shop to get this resolved or maybe the insurance has a satisfaction guarantee on the repairs they could use to cover getting it fixed.

 

[xsports33]

Thanks Jimmy! I really appreciate the help. I think it's great when people such as yourself go the extra mile to help someone out... especially online when it's completely anonymous.