If anybody is worried about moisture in their oil, the simple thing to do is eliminate short trips. Ride a bike or walk instead. lol
After all these years a "new" myth!
- Thread starter Pablo
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,793
6 miles to work? In a blizzard? Uphill ..both ways??
One more thing about evaporation:
The crankcase operates in a vacuum much of the time, due to the PCV system. This makes it easier for any water to vaporize, esp at lower temperatures.
The crankcase operates in a vacuum much of the time, due to the PCV system. This makes it easier for any water to vaporize, esp at lower temperatures.
Uphill, both ways.....?
Anyway
A while back I did read an article about small common rail diesel engines not producing much heat to get the interior up to a comfortable temp in cold weather.
It had to do with the efficiency of the engine (was/is pretty high) and no word about oil.
Anyway
A while back I did read an article about small common rail diesel engines not producing much heat to get the interior up to a comfortable temp in cold weather.
It had to do with the efficiency of the engine (was/is pretty high) and no word about oil.
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Speaking of new myths, I had someone on a RAV4 board tell me that Toyota told him the factory-fill gear oil in the transfer case and the rear diff was supposed to turn black after 1000 miles because it's synthetic.
Wow - that's a funny one.
I work with a lady who was concerned her anti-lock brakes were not working on her Toyota. They didn't seem feel pulse or hear the usual abs noises when she hit the brakes hard on ice etc, and her previous vehicle had abs (dodge).
Toyota service guy told her that Japanese vehicles don't act the same as American cars and you won't notice the abs noise or pedal feel when it kicks in. I was like what!!...my previous Toyota RAV 4 acted similar to the domestics when it comes to ABS function...along with my Honda, Mazda, etc..
My mazda dealer told me my auto transmission doesn't have a drain plug. Explain that to the drain plug I removed with a 8mm hex during a oil cooler line flush.
Speaking of new myths, I had someone on a RAV4 board tell me that Toyota told him the factory-fill gear oil in the transfer case and the rear diff was supposed to turn black after 1000 miles because it's synthetic.
Wow - that's a funny one.
I work with a lady who was concerned her anti-lock brakes were not working on her Toyota. They didn't seem feel pulse or hear the usual abs noises when she hit the brakes hard on ice etc, and her previous vehicle had abs (dodge).
Toyota service guy told her that Japanese vehicles don't act the same as American cars and you won't notice the abs noise or pedal feel when it kicks in. I was like what!!...my previous Toyota RAV 4 acted similar to the domestics when it comes to ABS function...along with my Honda, Mazda, etc..
My mazda dealer told me my auto transmission doesn't have a drain plug. Explain that to the drain plug I removed with a 8mm hex during a oil cooler line flush.
Originally Posted By: SpitfireS
A while back I did read an article about small common rail diesel engines not producing much heat to get the interior up to a comfortable temp in cold weather.
There's a "heat" button on my Nissan that ups the idle to 1500RPM rather than 750RPM to get the heater working.
A while back I did read an article about small common rail diesel engines not producing much heat to get the interior up to a comfortable temp in cold weather.
There's a "heat" button on my Nissan that ups the idle to 1500RPM rather than 750RPM to get the heater working.
You mean....its not true?.................
I love those old automotive myths . I had a neighbor that had a Ford P.U. with the 300 cu.inch straight six . He would always run it a quart low on oil . An old mechanic had told him to do that . " He's been working on vehicles for years . He knows what he's talking about " . He said it applied to all Fords .
Last edited:
Mythbusters anyone? I wonder if they would ever tackle something like oil myths?
I had actually asked Pablo about it because of what I read here.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/which-to-get-amsoil-xl-or-amsoil-full-synthetic.122282/
See this post #1723607 - 12/29/09 02:31 PM
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/which-to-get-amsoil-xl-or-amsoil-full-synthetic.122282/
See this post #1723607 - 12/29/09 02:31 PM
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Dantheman
I love those old automotive myths . I had a neighbor that had a Ford P.U. with the 300 cu.inch straight six . He would always run it a quart low on oil . An old mechanic had told him to do that . " He's been working on vehicles for years . He knows what he's talking about " . He said it applied to all Fords .
I've heard that one, too. I suspect the origin has to do with the way the dipstick was marked in many of the 1980s Fords. They had the normal crosshatch add/full thing, but they also had a circle above that, for no apparent purpose. Some would fill with the factory recommended amount, and then find it's not up to this stupid circle, and add an extra quart or more. It obviously got convoluted along the way to running them a quart low.
I love those old automotive myths . I had a neighbor that had a Ford P.U. with the 300 cu.inch straight six . He would always run it a quart low on oil . An old mechanic had told him to do that . " He's been working on vehicles for years . He knows what he's talking about " . He said it applied to all Fords .
I've heard that one, too. I suspect the origin has to do with the way the dipstick was marked in many of the 1980s Fords. They had the normal crosshatch add/full thing, but they also had a circle above that, for no apparent purpose. Some would fill with the factory recommended amount, and then find it's not up to this stupid circle, and add an extra quart or more. It obviously got convoluted along the way to running them a quart low.
Originally Posted By: Vizzy
My guess is that circle marking on the dip stick was a overfill warning!
Pass that circle and you probably get possible converter damage.
You're probably right. I saw many people insist on filling to the circle, when that would clearly add at least a quart more than the manual recommended. It's just another reason why I always do my own oil changes.
My guess is that circle marking on the dip stick was a overfill warning!
Pass that circle and you probably get possible converter damage.
You're probably right. I saw many people insist on filling to the circle, when that would clearly add at least a quart more than the manual recommended. It's just another reason why I always do my own oil changes.
In the USA it is very hard to break the long held belief that if a little is good, MORE is better. Nothing could be further from the truth, especially in the modern automobile....
With regards to checking the oil....AS LONG AS THE OIL READS BETWEEN THE LOW AND FULL MARKINGS EVERYTHING IS FINE WITH REGARDS TO THE LUBRICATION OF THE ENGINE.
The best place to be is EXACTLY in the middle of those two hash marks.
Many times owners manuals will specifically state:
DO NOT OVERFILL THE CRANKCASE!!!....DOING SO MAY RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE OR EMISSIONS EQUIPMENT!!!!!!
With regards to checking the oil....AS LONG AS THE OIL READS BETWEEN THE LOW AND FULL MARKINGS EVERYTHING IS FINE WITH REGARDS TO THE LUBRICATION OF THE ENGINE.
The best place to be is EXACTLY in the middle of those two hash marks.
Many times owners manuals will specifically state:
DO NOT OVERFILL THE CRANKCASE!!!....DOING SO MAY RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE OR EMISSIONS EQUIPMENT!!!!!!
Last edited:
EXACTLY in the middle?
Have you never heard of Bose sound systems?
Have you never heard of Bose sound systems?
However, long OCI may contribute to this build up as the oil gets loaded with blow by etc. Oil gets weaker might make moisture more regular,
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
How does the oil "evacuate" the moisture without evaporating it?
It can't.
Quote:
So I guess it is a matter of how long the moisture is in the oil that matters.
Moisture will always go into the oil in any cold starting event. It's the breaking point where you're suspending it in vapor (evaporation) faster than it is being produced that determines your stockpiling of it. At some point between cold start and full temp you're getting rid of it at the same rate that you're introducing it. Beyond that point you have the capacity to suspend/vaporize/evaporate more than you produce. If you didn't, every engine would end up loaded with moisture the more cold starting events it had regardless of the event duration.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
How does the oil "evacuate" the moisture without evaporating it?
It can't.
Quote:
So I guess it is a matter of how long the moisture is in the oil that matters.
Moisture will always go into the oil in any cold starting event. It's the breaking point where you're suspending it in vapor (evaporation) faster than it is being produced that determines your stockpiling of it. At some point between cold start and full temp you're getting rid of it at the same rate that you're introducing it. Beyond that point you have the capacity to suspend/vaporize/evaporate more than you produce. If you didn't, every engine would end up loaded with moisture the more cold starting events it had regardless of the event duration.
It was carefully qualified, you need a properly operating PCV and normal vapor pressure will take care of the rest.
Some cars shoot oil up under the piston crowns, these designs really heat the oil when you run them hard.
Some cars shoot oil up under the piston crowns, these designs really heat the oil when you run them hard.
Originally Posted By: SpitfireS
A while back I did read an article about small common rail diesel engines not producing much heat to get the interior up to a comfortable temp in cold weather.
It had to do with the efficiency of the engine (was/is pretty high) and no word about oil.
It's not just common rail engines. Both my wife's rotary pump and my unit injector diesels don't make much spare heat for several miles. Heated seats are fantastic in these cars.
In Chicago, this meant driving with your coat/hat/gloves on for the first 10 minutes or so. The oil is heated quite well - the engines are turbocharged and have piston squirters as well as an oil/coolant heat exchanger at the base of the oil filter housing.
In truly arctic weather (-20C and below), the coolant temperature would slowly drop as you idled at a stop light if you were running the heat. A buddy of mine who used to live in the superartic regions of northern MN sometimes had trouble keeping heat at all when traveling at speed (as well as keeping his fuel from gelling).
A couple things really helped cabin heat: blocking the front grille with pipe insulation helped retain more heat and installing a kilowatt tank heater in the coolant loop made for much warmer starts and easier driving.
And yet, both cars seemed to survive somehow on synthetic oil...
A while back I did read an article about small common rail diesel engines not producing much heat to get the interior up to a comfortable temp in cold weather.
It had to do with the efficiency of the engine (was/is pretty high) and no word about oil.
It's not just common rail engines. Both my wife's rotary pump and my unit injector diesels don't make much spare heat for several miles. Heated seats are fantastic in these cars.
In Chicago, this meant driving with your coat/hat/gloves on for the first 10 minutes or so. The oil is heated quite well - the engines are turbocharged and have piston squirters as well as an oil/coolant heat exchanger at the base of the oil filter housing.
In truly arctic weather (-20C and below), the coolant temperature would slowly drop as you idled at a stop light if you were running the heat. A buddy of mine who used to live in the superartic regions of northern MN sometimes had trouble keeping heat at all when traveling at speed (as well as keeping his fuel from gelling).
A couple things really helped cabin heat: blocking the front grille with pipe insulation helped retain more heat and installing a kilowatt tank heater in the coolant loop made for much warmer starts and easier driving.
And yet, both cars seemed to survive somehow on synthetic oil...
- Status
Similar threads
