Myth confirmed? Maybe. Leakage after changing oil brands/formulations

[Hohn]

For the most part, I've considered any reports of leakage occurring or increasing after simply changing oils to be a myth. I've always concluded that the handful of legit occurrences went back to the 70s and 80s until seal swell characteristics were dialed in for PAO and Ester oils.

But I'm probably going to have to eat my words on this one.

A couple years ago I happened across otherwise extinct Mobil 1 FS Euro 0w-40 in the older API SN formulation. I felt like that lady who found the Coelacanth off of Madagascar. The extinct is alive! Now, given the unicorn-tear reputation of this oil, I bought every quart they had on the shelf (about 12) and it sat in the corner as "my precious" until I could wrap up my experiment in the old Odyssey with Valvoline Restore and Protect.

I was dying to see if this legendary formula would continue the amazing cleaning done by the Valvoline Restore and Protect.

What I got instead was a notable increase in seepage to where the previous wet spots become drips. For the first time, I could smell oil burning from dripping onto hot exhaust.

My van has never done this in 20 years. At most it has always been a seep. The Mobil 1 FS Euro took it from "seep" to "leak" unequivocally.

I might have to begrudgingly switch to some kind of "high mileage" formulation.

The real question: will draining out the Unicorn tears of vintage Mobil 1 FS Euro and going back to the Valvoline Restore and Protect let the leakage go back to its former, more acceptable state?

Hmm. I'm thinking it might be time to just accept my Van is moving into Hospice and getting Valvoline Maxlife for the remainder of its days. I'm loathe to accept that because it still runs, drives and rides SO well!

 

[shortyb]

Where is the leak? Sounds like the Valvoline Restore and Protect may have cleaned the seals and the Mobil 1 has an abundance of PAO (I'm unfamiliar with the SN) is causing more seal shrinkage than desired. Old seals with a lot less elasticity now seep/ leak more.

I can verify the abillity of Maxlife to slow/stop old seal leakage. I just changed it more often.

 

[JavierH19]

I'd rather change the valve cover gasket unless it's hard on these. And it is known that pao can harm seals and even though everyone thinks oils are perfectly formulated it's not always the case. Even they missed some stuff back then and didn't correct it until the long term showed it. The most modern pao blended formulations should not do this however.

 

[wlk]

I've experienced more leaks with Mobil 1 oil compared to other oils over the years. Why, I don't know or really care; it is good oil, and I just keep a closer eye on top-offs. Since you have the Mobil 1 in the Honda, grab a bottle of LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver and add the can to the Mobil 1 0w40 and drive it for your regular OCI. The LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver is a High Mileage additive that has worked very well for me over the years in slowing/stopping leaks. I use a bottle every couple of oil changes when I am not running High Mileage oils.

 

[facility1]

Yup Mobil 1 ruined your day, just use the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 as it works well before, and if its a valve cover leaking, try snugging up the bolts a bit may help.

 

[johnmyster]

Could the seep rate be partially related to viscosity?

 

[HemiBenny]

How far into the Mobil 1 oil change were you when you noticed this leak?
There's always the possibility that the Valvoline Restore and Protect did such a good job of cleaning that another run of Valvoline Restore and Protect would have started leaking as well. This may be merely a coincidence. There's no way to know for sure.

 

[buster]

I'd probably move to Mobil 1 High Mileage, which Mobil said is their best "cleaning" oil (before Mobil 1 Advanced Clean was released). Sounds like the seals are not in great shape so seal conditioners may or may not help.

 

[joekingcorvette]

I would use a high mileage oil and they make some seal sealers and products that actually work to stop leaks. I think it's more of an age issue than changing to different oils. I would definitely try some of those over the shelf products because the do work SOME of the time.

 

[OVERKILL]

For the most part, I've considered any reports of leakage occurring or increasing after simply changing oils to be a myth. I've always concluded that the handful of legit occurrences went back to the 70s and 80s until seal swell characteristics were dialed in for PAO and Ester oils.

But I'm probably going to have to eat my words on this one.

A couple years ago I happened across otherwise extinct Mobil 1 FS Euro 0w-40 in the older API SN formulation. I felt like that lady who found the Coelacanth off of Madagascar. The extinct is alive! Now, given the unicorn-tear reputation of this oil, I bought every quart they had on the shelf (about 12) and it sat in the corner as "my precious" until I could wrap up my experiment in the old Odyssey with Valvoline Restore and Protect.

I was dying to see if this legendary formula would continue the amazing cleaning done by the Valvoline Restore and Protect.

What I got instead was a notable increase in seepage to where the previous wet spots become drips. For the first time, I could smell oil burning from dripping onto hot exhaust.

My van has never done this in 20 years. At most it has always been a seep. The Mobil 1 FS Euro took it from "seep" to "leak" unequivocally.

I might have to begrudgingly switch to some kind of "high mileage" formulation.

The real question: will draining out the Unicorn tears of vintage Mobil 1 FS Euro and going back to the Valvoline Restore and Protect let the leakage go back to its former, more acceptable state?

Hmm. I'm thinking it might be time to just accept my Van is moving into Hospice and getting Valvoline Maxlife for the remainder of its days. I'm loathe to accept that because it still runs, drives and rides SO well!

Hilariously, I had the opposite experience with this exact same oil in my BMW M5. The valve cover gaskets were seeping and this oil stopped the leaks

 

[QwikKota]

The Colorado I just bought has a slight leak near the top end on the 2.5L. It is either the valve cover or the timing cover. It is just seeping. I'm curious if switching to a synthetic will make the leak worse but I don't know how common conventional 5W-20 is. I'm not sure what the last oil change used as I bought it with 105k miles for my Son to drive when he gets his license.

 

[rumcapital23]

I'd rather change the valve cover gasket unless it's hard on these. And it is known that pao can harm seals and even though everyone thinks oils are perfectly formulated it's not always the case. Even they missed some stuff back then and didn't correct it until the long term showed it. The most modern pao blended formulations should not do this however.

could this be the case why Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 doesn't have any PAO? or is it because of the virgin oxidation levels by the Esters? thanks for the insight.

just to be clear, i shouldn't worry about running Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 in my new vehicle, destroying my seals/gaskets, right?
thanks in advance

 

[rumcapital23]

For the most part, I've considered any reports of leakage occurring or increasing after simply changing oils to be a myth. I've always concluded that the handful of legit occurrences went back to the 70s and 80s until seal swell characteristics were dialed in for PAO and Ester oils.

But I'm probably going to have to eat my words on this one.

A couple years ago I happened across otherwise extinct Mobil 1 FS Euro 0w-40 in the older API SN formulation. I felt like that lady who found the Coelacanth off of Madagascar. The extinct is alive! Now, given the unicorn-tear reputation of this oil, I bought every quart they had on the shelf (about 12) and it sat in the corner as "my precious" until I could wrap up my experiment in the old Odyssey with Valvoline Restore and Protect.

I was dying to see if this legendary formula would continue the amazing cleaning done by the Valvoline Restore and Protect.

What I got instead was a notable increase in seepage to where the previous wet spots become drips. For the first time, I could smell oil burning from dripping onto hot exhaust.

My van has never done this in 20 years. At most it has always been a seep. The Mobil 1 FS Euro took it from "seep" to "leak" unequivocally.

I might have to begrudgingly switch to some kind of "high mileage" formulation.

The real question: will draining out the Unicorn tears of vintage Mobil 1 FS Euro and going back to the Valvoline Restore and Protect let the leakage go back to its former, more acceptable state?

Hmm. I'm thinking it might be time to just accept my Van is moving into Hospice and getting Valvoline Maxlife for the remainder of its days. I'm loathe to accept that because it still runs, drives and rides SO well!

run her until the wheels fall off, don't let the elite convince you that she's done. they want you driving a new car they can turn off at any given moment if they deem you a radical. big oil wants you in an EV.

 

[scrllock]

Where is the leak? Sounds like the Valvoline Restore and Protect may have cleaned the seals and the Mobil 1 has an abundance of PAO (I'm unfamiliar with the SN) is causing more seal shrinkage than desired. Old seals with a lot less elasticity now seep/ leak more.

I can verify the ability of Valvoline Maxlife to slow/stop old seal leakage. I just changed it more often.

SN still had esters. Newer Full Synthetic is just PAO/GTL.

FWIW I have also heard from euro friends that their first change on the old Full Synthetic did this. Especially on older cars.

My experience hasn't reflected this though.

could this be the case why Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 doesn't have any PAO? or is it because of the virgin oxidation levels by the Esters? thanks for the insight.

just to be clear, i shouldn't worry about running Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 in my new vehicle, destroying my seals/gaskets, right?
thanks in advance

Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 has PAO. It does not have traditional esters like Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 does.

 

[rumcapital23]

Hilariously, I had the opposite experience with this exact same oil in my BMW M5. The valve cover gaskets were seeping and this oil stopped the leaks

SN still had esters. Newer Full Synthetic is just PAO/GTL.

FWIW I have also heard from euro friends that their first change on the old Full Synthetic did this. Especially on older cars.

My experience hasn't reflected this though.


Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 has PAO. It does not have traditional esters like Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 does.

thanks for info

 

[Hohn]

I'd rather change the valve cover gasket unless it's hard on these. And it is known that pao can harm seals and even though everyone thinks oils are perfectly formulated it's not always the case. Even they missed some stuff back then and didn't correct it until the long term showed it. The most modern pao blended formulations should not do this however.

I'm going to do some leak sleuthing and see if I can replace whatever the most obvious sources are (notably the oil filter adapter flange where the casting. meets the pan/block is certainly leaking).

I find leakage to a terrible reason to run a different oil. I'm inclined to just fix things that are bad instead of throw bandaids at them.

I think part of why this van is still going to so well is precisely because I didn't try to just tide things over but rather fixed root issues when I could.

 

[Hohn]

Hilariously, I had the opposite experience with this exact same oil in my BMW M5. The valve cover gaskets were seeping and this oil stopped the leaks

SN still had esters. Newer Full Synthetic is just PAO/GTL.

FWIW I have also heard from euro friends that their first change on the old Full Synthetic did this. Especially on older cars.

My experience hasn't reflected this though.


Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 has PAO. It does not have traditional esters like Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 does.

Yeah, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with this legendary oil whatsoever. The old van just has seals that are a bit set in their ways.

Because the van just gets used for very short trips around town, it has very low miles on it (2k). I'm not about to drain this stuff out in a misguided attempt to swap oil to something the seals like better.

A seal that needs special oil to work is a failed seal.

 

[dkryan]

I'm going to do some leak sleuthing and see if I can replace whatever the most obvious sources are (notably the oil filter adapter flange where the casting. meets the pan/block is certainly leaking).

I find leakage to a terrible reason to run a different oil. I'm inclined to just fix things that are bad instead of throw bandaids at them.

I think part of why this van is still going to so well is precisely because I didn't try to just tide things over but rather fixed root issues when I could.

THIS ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Mechanician]

I'm going to do some leak sleuthing and see if I can replace whatever the most obvious sources are (notably the oil filter adapter flange where the casting. meets the pan/block is certainly leaking).

If you see oil above that flange down the back of the block, it's usually the seal/O ring between the oil pump and block.
A common seal that shrinks and leaks on that engine.

 

[tired]

The real question: will draining out the Unicorn tears of vintage Euro FS and going back to the Valvoline Restore and Protect let the leakage go back to its former, more acceptable state?

I think that's the move. I only see Euro oils, boutique, and Valvoline Restore and Protect as the only acceptable oil choices at the moment.

Where is it leaking exactly? A valve cover gasket for example isn't necessarily a condemnation to hospice, IMHO.