After 20 years, finally ditched K&N filters

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I've used K&N air filters for all my vehicles for atleast 20 years. Whenever I bought a new car, as soon as the air filter was due, I swapped in a K&N. I figured the little bit more power, the million mile warranty and the cost savings of reusing the filter were all good for me.

Well, lately I've been thinking...and I am NOT bashing K&N...but really is a "possible" loss of filtration worth the maybe 5hp gain and that gain is at the upper RPM range where you rarely use it??? Then, my decision came today when I cleaned the MAF sensor on the truck. I could not see any dirt on the MAF, but after I cleaned it - the truck ran Sooo much better. I think there may have been a film of oil on the MAF that was hurting the MAF sensor readings and costing me some power and MPG. This filter was not yet cleaned by me - it was out of the box installed and ran 28k miles. I was gonna clean/oil it and reinstall like I used to do. But after seeing the truck run better after cleaning the MAF - I drove Autozone and got a regular paper filter and stuck it in. Now, I even put a K&N in my '08 CTS and I am gonna do the same thing there and see if the car responds better. But, all in all, I am gonna change out all my vehicles K&N's back to paper. I've never had a bad UOA with a K&N so I cannot bad mouth them for that - however my common sense keeps telling me that no matter what - some oil is gonna make it's way to the MAF and I don't like that.

Just talking you guys here, thanks for listening!
 
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would you care to share you MAF cleaning method?

Im in the market to clean my MAF. Ive never done it and i dont EXCATLY know what to do. Being a new one runs around $300. Id like to not break it =D.
 
I love their oil cartridge filter for my car. I'm close to sampling every major brand so far and it's stood out as the best. Very very good build quality.
 
Originally Posted By: Kaie
would you care to share you MAF cleaning method?

Im in the market to clean my MAF. Ive never done it and i dont EXCATLY know what to do. Being a new one runs around $300. Id like to not break it =D.


CRC makes a mass airflow sensor spray cleaner found at auto parts stores or online. It's about $7. Be very careful with the sensor when it's out- some of them are very fragile. Don't touch the sensor itself, just hose it down with the spray cleaner.
 
Originally Posted By: sky7
Originally Posted By: Kaie
would you care to share you MAF cleaning method?

Im in the market to clean my MAF. Ive never done it and i dont EXCATLY know what to do. Being a new one runs around $300. Id like to not break it =D.


CRC makes a mass airflow sensor spray cleaner found at auto parts stores or online. It's about $7. Be very careful with the sensor when it's out- some of them are very fragile. Don't touch the sensor itself, just hose it down with the spray cleaner.


Just hose it down with the CRC product and reinstall?
 
If you never had an issue why change. Cleaning the sensor is part of my routine along with the throttle body. I use a ProDry filter for both Tacoma and Jetta.
 
Do you use a vagcom to reset the tb in your jetta? I heard its best to do that so the idle tolerance motor resets.
 
Use an oem air filter,better quality than Parts store filters,at least for my Accord.
 
Originally Posted By: sky7
Originally Posted By: Kaie
would you care to share you MAF cleaning method?

Im in the market to clean my MAF. Ive never done it and i dont EXCATLY know what to do. Being a new one runs around $300. Id like to not break it =D.


CRC makes a mass airflow sensor spray cleaner found at auto parts stores or online. It's about $7. Be very careful with the sensor when it's out- some of them are very fragile. Don't touch the sensor itself, just hose it down with the spray cleaner.



That's what I use. Electronics cleaner has worked in the past. I just figured maybe there is something special about the MAF cleaner....and CRC has always been good products.
 
Not only do those cotton gauze filters have lower efficiency like you pointed out. That alone would steer me away. And the oil used on them is not good for MAF sensors. By the time you factor in the filter's high cost, the cost and time of cleaning it and reoiling it, I doubt it is any cheaper. All for what but a few HP on the top end that you rarely use like you said.
 
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Are you asking me. No haven't touched it other than a few cleaning.


Oh ok. i saw a write up saying:

'Turn the key on but do not start the car.

* [Select]
* [01 - Engine]
* [Measuring Blocks - 08]

Enter Group 098

* [Go!]
* [Switch to basic settings]

Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.

* Click the [Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!'


After you clean the TB in a VW. Specifically MkIII
 
I concur with your change. I also prefer OEM type filters over cotton gauze. I don't think K&N filters save money either, especially if you consider the cost (and time) of cleaning them. An OEM-type filter is generally good for 30-50k miles (though most people like to change them sooner).
 
also agree with the switch.

Used to use them in EVERYTHING until I started racing off road and got educated.

Their oil all over everything issue is mostly user error as people just over oil them, but they simply do not filter well enough for my liking.
 
I wouldn't use them off road or in dusty conditions, but I don't see the problem otherwise. Some people mentioned that city smog might be an issue (or dirty suburban areas). I think Florida sees enough ocean breeze and rain to keep most conditions favorable for K&N filters. I think alot of negative talk on here about K&N is fear mongering.
 
Here's a very interesting test that showed not only did the K&N have significantly lower efficiency it also clogged much faster than a paper filter negating its main benefit of being less restrictive http://forums.nicoclub.com/debunking-the-k-n-myth-why-oem-is-better-t180100.html. I personally think the cotton guaze filter is only useful in highly modified or racing engines where efficiency isn't that important or in off roading where water or mud may get into the filter.
 
I won't dispute a particular person's experience with K&N. I only know my own, and I've used them for 15+ years. Never had an issue and didn't need to purchase air filters beyond the first K&N for each application.
 
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