Adding coolant filtration to gas engine?

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Walmill

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Interested in adding a coolant filter to a ford 300 EFI engine. Truck has 194XXX miles. First 185k miles were previous owner. I honestly don't know what maintenance schedule was adhered to but there are no apparent overheating issues. I've fixed a few leaks heee and there.
I'm aware of some of the rebuttals coming my way of creating more connections = more potential leaks and that if there's enough [censored] for a filter to catch then there's other issues going on.

I'd rather find I have an issue through a clogged filter than a failes water pump or overheated engine.

Ivw seen a couple threads on the topic ans they date from years ago so perhaps there is new applicable equipmwnt or techniques.
 
Many years ago I used a Perry water filter with a sacrificial anode. For coolant, I used distilled water, zinc chromate, and water pump lubricant and no antifreeze because temp's never got to freezing. This system left the cooling system completely clean and free of any corrosion.
 
So, you could do this, but why?
Are you actually trying to prevent gunk from circulating?
Or is it just a fun tinkering project?

Why not fix the source of the gunk instead of filtering it out?

Millions of cars on the road without coolant filtration.
Is there a compelling reason your vehicle is different?
 
When i drove from KC to Wichita all the time in my 1993 Grand Prix SE the dealer told me to just drain and fill every 100k and keep it full. I guess oil does most cooling. I just used Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic 10w30 and Mobil 1 filter.
 
Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
Cut the return line from your heater core, install.
Turn on heat to filter coolant...


The filter is too much restriction to put in the heater hose path (in series)

It's best to use a smallish (3/8" or 10mm) hose to run the filter between high and low pressure sides.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
The filter is too much restriction to put in the heater hose path (in series)

It's best to use a smallish (3/8" or 10mm) hose to run the filter between high and low pressure sides.

No guys, no.
Guys...no. No.
No.
No, no, no.

You're definitely not making it better and you're quite possibly making it worse.
If you have gunk worth filtering, fix the problem!
Don't filter it out and mask the issue of gunk formation. Solve the problem.

This is definitely a case of an ounce of prevention (solving the gunk formation issue) being worth a pound of cure (your cockamamie filter idea).
[Nothing personal]

The only justification here is if you were wanting to tinker for fun on a system that didn't actually need filtration. In that case, have at it fellas!

Otherwise, no guys, don't do this.
 
Originally Posted By: Imp4
Originally Posted By: Linctex
The filter is too much restriction to put in the heater hose path (in series)

It's best to use a smallish (3/8" or 10mm) hose to run the filter between high and low pressure sides.

No guys, no.
Guys...no. No.
No.
No, no, no.

You're definitely not making it better and you're quite possibly making it worse.
If you have gunk worth filtering, fix the problem!
Don't filter it out and mask the issue of gunk formation. Solve the problem.

This is definitely a case of an ounce of prevention (solving the gunk formation issue) being worth a pound of cure (your cockamamie filter idea).
[Nothing personal]

The only justification here is if you were wanting to tinker for fun on a system that didn't actually need filtration. In that case, have at it fellas!

Otherwise, no guys, don't do this.


I may be dimwitted but I'm having difficulty trying to come up with a scenario where removing unwanted matter from the cooling system will be directly harmful. Unless you mean using the filter as a bandaid instead of performing needed work.
 
Originally Posted By: Walmill
I may be dimwitted but I'm having difficulty trying to come up with a scenario where removing unwanted matter from the cooling system will be directly harmful. Unless you mean using the filter as a bandaid instead of performing needed work.

No, you are not dimwitted.
Yes, I mean using the filter as a bandaid is a bad thing.

And, more importantly, adding a filtration loop to a
system that does not require filtration when working properly is not a good thing.
In fact it may be harmful per the OPs comment about extra leak points.

Just think, if this were actually needed, BITOG would undoubtedly have a coolant filtration subfolder. I just know you can picture it now 'Puro Coolant Filter TORN'. And all sorts of other mumbo jumbo.

But it doesn't exist. Because it's not needed. Not here, not there, not in any properly functioning coolant system.

Just no.
 
Couple of things...

First, keep your coolant resevoir bottle filled to the “Hot” line, when the engine is cold.
Air is the enemy...

Second, I tried the bypass way between the high and low pressure, not enought flow through the filter...
Use rubber pipe insulation (not the brown foam stuff, the black spongey) on the hoses to reduce heat loss..

Third, I found most 50/50 premix to be 40/60, so I add full strength when topping off.
My Dad blew a hose, warranty repair, when the car was returned, coolant overflow was on the lowest line.
It took nearly a quart to fill it to the top line...

I run both a power steering filter (Fram 3600/Purolator 20195) and a coolant filter (long 24070)
No problems,...
 
Originally Posted By: matwithcats
I run both a power steering filter (Fram 3600/Purolator 20195) and a coolant filter (long 24070)
No problems,...

What is the measurable benefit of doing this?
How do you determine filter change interval?
How do you determine fluid change interval?
Do the benefits outweigh the costs?
Data please!

And a cat picture!
 
I'm at a loss as to this obsession with coolant cleanliness. Why cares? A few particles travelling thru the cooling system looking for a leak to plug....not a bad thing.
 
What is it about sinks?

Power steering fluid was originally filthy, used a Purolator 10241 (Fram 3614) white can, when removed a week later, was full of crud.

Used a Wix 51773 next, that got the fluid pretty clean, and a Purolator PL20295 for the last two years...

I agree, unless your coolant is dirty, a filter is not needed.

But how can you tell without paying for an analysis?

If it looks dirty, a flush is needed, if it looks chocolate milkshake, oil is present.
But what about the stuff you cant see?
 
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