adding a supercharger should you change the oil ty

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new here, but been lurker a long time and I couldnt use the search function as a lurker so I read through some pages and coudnt find the answer so here goes:

the recommendation on my FJ cruiser is 5w30, but since I added a sueprcharger does this change? could I use a 15W-50 during the hot summer months of arizona and do a switch back to say 5w30 for winter? any benefit to use a higher viscoity oil?
 
I'd stick to the same viscosity, but upgrade to fully synthetic (if you hadn't already).

But enough about that...tell us about the supercharged FJ. :)
 
I agree that you should switch to synthetic.

If your oil temps increase or your oil pressure decreases with the supercharger, then you may want to go a bit thicker. I wouldn't jump straight to a 50-weight, but a 40-weight of some kind might help.

Otherwise, get a good synthetic 5w30 or 0w30 and stick with it.
 
Originally Posted By: 94supraonchrome
If that FJ were mine and I was in Az, I'd use synthetic 5W30 or 10W30 year round.....I'd love to add the supercharger to my 4Runner.


toyota now makes the supercharger for majortiy of their trucks....such as tacoma, tundra, 4runner, etc....


100_8613.jpg
 
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At least you can add a supercharger to yours, pretty straight forward.

My Xterra would require all sorts of upgrades to get the M62 S/C installed.
 
Given the increased load on the crank bearings, I'd look for something with higher HTHS values. Look for an A3/B4 oil, at the least.

Your 15w-50 (I'm assuming M1)idea sounds good. Aridzona temps exceed 100 for half the year - the oil is not 'too thick' IMO.

Any sturdy Xw-40, or Xw-50 weight would go well.

If you stick with Dino oil, you might shorten the OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: Geonerd
Given the increased load on the crank bearings, I'd look for something with higher HTHS values. Look for an A3/B4 oil, at the least.

Your 15w-50 (I'm assuming M1)idea sounds good. Aridzona temps exceed 100 for half the year - the oil is not 'too thick' IMO.

Any sturdy Xw-40, or Xw-50 weight would go well.

If you stick with Dino oil, you might shorten the OCI.


yes I meant mobil1 for the 15w-50....also I have bigger tires and an increase in paylaod also....im assumign this increase the engines workload for higher temps????
 
Yeah. Others I didnt think of would be Valvoline Maxlife Full synthetic 5W30, 10W30, 10W40. Also, Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 or 10W40. Thats pretty much what I would use, year round.
 
Originally Posted By: robertcope
For whatever this is worth, I recently bought a 1997 Tacoma with the 3.4L motor and TRD supercharger. I dumped the oil when I bought it and put AMSOIL SSO in it and ran it for 10K. UOA and discussion here, but the summary is that the oil held up well:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1604712/

was reading through that thread and did not understand the acroynoms at all....what is:

UOA?
you talk about some kind of SS something amsoil?

so was the amsoil bad? I always though amsoil and mobil were top notch oils either way you win with them they are better than the rest out there.
 
A UOA is a Used oil analysis. SSO is Amsoil's "model." All of their products have a three letter alphabetical code associated with it. "SSO" is their Signature 0W30 product. The out come of the oil test was that the oil held up well for 10000 miles in a Supercharged Toyota 3.4L.
 
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SSO is Amsoil's flagship oil for passenger cars with gasoline engines. It's a really nice 0w-30.
 
Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
A UOA is a Used oil analysis. SSO is Amsoil's "model." All of their products have a three letter alphabetical code associated with it. "SSO" is their Signature 0W30 product. The out come of the oil test was that the oil held up well for 10000 miles in a Supercharged Toyota 3.4L.


ahhh....thanks for that info...still learnign oil.
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
This is off-topic but that clear air cleaner box is really cool!



thx its alot better than the TRD aluminum one..then again I wonder if that aluminum has a purpose as to keep the heat out???
 
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