Accord auto 4 cylinder transmission problem

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Originally Posted By: Miller88

At 100K miles on my focus, I'll have to buy $20 in sparkplugs and a $30 air filter. And that's about it

Famoues last words.

Speaking of...at 37k miles on my Focus, I had to buy another car.
 
Doog,
I'd wager that Miller's Focus cost him less than $100 in 200k miles OTHER than fluids, belts, filters, fluids. That's routine SON, NOT $2300 every 50k miles. Good lord, that's $9200 in 200k miles, he could replace the motor and trans 2 times if he wanted for those "but it's a Honda, it's legendary"..Doog.. buddy, you still following the "legendary logic???"
The focus is a good car...Hondas..Toyotas..not so much..ask me how I know.

Jason..OK Step mom's van is a lemon..got it. What about the $1000 Headlight/computer for the prius in less than 90k miles? Or my Roomate's oil burning STI that lad a rear main seal leak take out the clutch disk, or alternator a 70k miles or MULTIPLE power steering pumps.. His car has less than 100k miles.. ARE they ALL lemons??? I'm all ears
 
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If you sourced sensors from E-bay I would get OEM Honda sensors and try them, dont trust junk off ebay!
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
What about the $1000 Headlight/computer for the prius in less than 90k miles? Or my Roomate's oil burning STI that lad a rear main seal leak take out the clutch disk, or alternator a 70k miles or MULTIPLE power steering pumps.. His car has less than 100k miles.. ARE they ALL lemons???


I don't know. Maybe. We had a lemon Chrysler Town & Country that required thousands of dollars' worth of work while it was still under the bumper-to-bumper warranty. It happens.
 
28k was the failure on the inlaws 02 Accord 4 cyl.

A friend just traded in an 02 4 cyl coupe with 135k on it with a perfect AT though.

These are known to be weak and about the worst in the business. Id replace it or at least start saving...
 
Originally Posted By: VNTS
If you sourced sensors from E-bay I would get OEM Honda sensors and try them, dont trust junk off ebay!


The two pressure switches were from ebay. All the solenoids were purchased from majestic.

doityourself mention the TPS, and I seem to recall reading a topic where the TPS cured an erratic shifting. I had removed the throttle body and the TPS is not a replaceable part according to Honda, the whole throttle body assembly need to be purchased. Rockauto actually sells the TPS by itself for about 25 bucks but I need to hack off the old one. Not sure if I want to try this or not. If I am going to replace the trans I need to be 1000% certain IT'S THE TRANSMISSION ITSELF and not something else.
 
Did you consider that the transmission computer itself is failing?

You could probably get one used from a scrap yard cheap.

Regarding fluids...

BEFORE you use any other fluid try Honda DW 1 first.

Then give Castrol TRANSMAX Import Multi Vehicle ATF a try.


ONLY use those transmission fix in a bottle as the absolute last resort. They usually end up causing more problems then they solve.
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
Doog,
I'd wager that Miller's Focus cost him less than $100 in 200k miles OTHER than fluids, belts, filters, fluids. That's routine SON, NOT $2300 every 50k miles. Good lord, that's $9200 in 200k miles, he could replace the motor and trans 2 times if he wanted for those "but it's a Honda, it's legendary"..Doog.. buddy, you still following the "legendary logic???"
The focus is a good car...Hondas..Toyotas..not so much..ask me how I know.

Jason..OK Step mom's van is a lemon..got it. What about the $1000 Headlight/computer for the prius in less than 90k miles? Or my Roomate's oil burning STI that lad a rear main seal leak take out the clutch disk, or alternator a 70k miles or MULTIPLE power steering pumps.. His car has less than 100k miles.. ARE they ALL lemons??? I'm all ears


Do you have nothing better to do?

I don't think anyone in this thread gives a [censored] about your B.S. stories. Put away your 2 cents, no one wants them.

If you are going to post, at least put a few facts in you statement instead of [censored].
 
Another vote for Lubegard Red or Lubegard Instant Shudder Fixx. saved my arse over the years on various makes and models including Honda. Lubegard is one of the few additives that has manufacturer and rebuilder approvals. Use it with the stock fluid so there aren't too many variables. Go to the Lubegard site and read about the products. They make other good products too.
 
To the OP: your transmission is probably dying. It's an internal issue.

Save your money. Find a good rebuilder or begin studying how to repair it yourself. Get the towing coverage if your insurance offers it.

IMO
 
Hyper.. Touchy touchy mr. Lexus driver. Hows that Toyota quality? In my experience not very good. How much much have you had to dump into "legendary Toyota quality" lately?
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
The z1 fluid those came with was a joke. degraded very quickly. Which didnt help their transmission problems any.
20-30k changes and it would still come out black and nasty.
Yes to both.

Quote:
That's probably because the clutches were burning up due to a lack of fluid, not the fluid itself. I've always used Z1/DW1 and it's never ever been black after 30k changes.
Yes, close to black ATF Z1 at 10k interval. Yes, trans did die. Lack of fluid? But there is no way for the owner to get more fluid to the clutches in his transmission. Mostly the third gear clutch in Honda 5spd AT.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Another vote for Lubegard Red or Lubegard Instant Shudder Fixx. saved my arse over the years on various makes and models including Honda. Lubegard is one of the few additives that has manufacturer and rebuilder approvals. Use it with the stock fluid so there aren't too many variables. Go to the Lubegard site and read about the products. They make other good products too.


A very knowledgeable technician on an Accord forum I'm on is against almost all additives or snake oils as he calls them. The lone exception being Lubeguard.
 
Guys,

Just ignore him and he'll go away. Just like a feral cat. He's feeding off the attention right now.
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
Doog,
I'd wager that Miller's Focus cost him less than $100 in 200k miles


Good bet since he only has 100k on it...maybe less. I'll bet I have to fill up my gas tank for the 2nd time when my Civic hits 50 billion miles...
lol.gif


No maybe 50 kazillion miles....
lol.gif
Found On Roadside Dead...Fix Or Repair Daily
lol.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: mister_two
By rough shifting, let's say from a complete stop, I give it gas to go it wouldn't shift at its normal shift points, say between 2 and 3k rpm, rpm continue to climb beyond 3k and when it DOES upshift it bangs in, hope I am describing it correctly. Same from 2 to 3 and it gets better after that, smoother.

If I am cruising at highway speeds and then slow down to say 10 mph and then speed up again it would not do it smoothly, that same bang feeling. Also, coming to a full stop, it "clunks". Also moving the shift lever between D4 and R would feel clunky also.


Sounds like low line pressure. This correlates with the fluid losing even more visc.when the transmission gets hot. Mechanically, could be a pump problem, or line pressure is leaking internally. It could just be increased clearances from wear and tear. Higher viscosity recommended, with FM to further smooth shifts.
 
Originally Posted By: jrustles
Originally Posted By: mister_two
By rough shifting, let's say from a complete stop, I give it gas to go it wouldn't shift at its normal shift points, say between 2 and 3k rpm, rpm continue to climb beyond 3k and when it DOES upshift it bangs in, hope I am describing it correctly. Same from 2 to 3 and it gets better after that, smoother.

If I am cruising at highway speeds and then slow down to say 10 mph and then speed up again it would not do it smoothly, that same bang feeling. Also, coming to a full stop, it "clunks". Also moving the shift lever between D4 and R would feel clunky also.


Sounds like low line pressure. This correlates with the fluid losing even more visc.when the transmission gets hot. Mechanically, could be a pump problem, or line pressure is leaking internally. It could just be increased clearances from wear and tear. Higher viscosity recommended, with FM to further smooth shifts.


+1. I would add there may also be some internal leakage.
I hate even go in this direction but i think in this particular case its worth a shot or a hail Mary pass if you will.

I would try a BG product transmission set, the flush and the conditioner pack common on ebay.
Run the flush as directed then do a line off total fluid exchange with Amsoil ATF.
Add the BG additive and drive the car gently for a couple of hundred miles.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmission-Flu...tr#ht_387wt_958
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
Doog,
I'd wager that Miller's Focus cost him less than $100 in 200k miles OTHER than fluids, belts, filters, fluids. That's routine SON, NOT $2300 every 50k miles. Good lord, that's $9200 in 200k miles, he could replace the motor and trans 2 times if he wanted for those "but it's a Honda, it's legendary"..Doog.. buddy, you still following the "legendary logic???"
The focus is a good car...Hondas..Toyotas..not so much..ask me how I know.

Jason..OK Step mom's van is a lemon..got it. What about the $1000 Headlight/computer for the prius in less than 90k miles? Or my Roomate's oil burning STI that lad a rear main seal leak take out the clutch disk, or alternator a 70k miles or MULTIPLE power steering pumps.. His car has less than 100k miles.. ARE they ALL lemons??? I'm all ears


Alright, I'll bite. Can you break down this $2,300 every 50k for me? I know it's dealership pricing, and probably includes lubing the doorlocks for a super low price for $19.95 every 10k.

Also, is Miller's tires going to last 100kmiles? I think you overlooked that in your estimate. A set of tires, brakes (rotors+pads), timing belt, transmission flush and every single "recommended" procedure done at the dealer might possibly add up to $2,300 every 50k.
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
Hyper.. Touchy touchy mr. Lexus driver. Hows that Toyota quality? In my experience not very good. How much much have you had to dump into "legendary Toyota quality" lately?


trolling is frankly not appreciated or welcome around here, unless its justified. thanks for your opinions and the such, but move along now ace.
 
Originally Posted By: mister_two
Originally Posted By: VNTS
If you sourced sensors from E-bay I would get OEM Honda sensors and try them, dont trust junk off ebay!


The two pressure switches were from ebay. All the solenoids were purchased from majestic.

doityourself mention the TPS, and I seem to recall reading a topic where the TPS cured an erratic shifting. I had removed the throttle body and the TPS is not a replaceable part according to Honda, the whole throttle body assembly need to be purchased. Rockauto actually sells the TPS by itself for about 25 bucks but I need to hack off the old one. Not sure if I want to try this or not. If I am going to replace the trans I need to be 1000% certain IT'S THE TRANSMISSION ITSELF and not something else.


I bought my pressure switches from ebay too and they were good.

Use live data scanner or voltmeter to check the TPS. This should be very easy. However, any issues with TPS would have flagged by the ECM aka check engine light.
 
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