A good top-off oil?

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Nick_Escalante

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I run M1 10W-30 5k-8k intervals, w/ a Purolator pureone filter. Since my motor leaks/burns 1 qt per 1200-1500 miles, ( 3.5 L Chrysler ) I have to add 1 qt at that interval.

So, usually I am adding 2-3 quarts of new oil before an oil change. What would be a decent/economical top off oil to use, since M1 is expensive, or extend my OCI? thx.
 
With that kind of consumption, I'd ditch Mobil 1 all together. Try a HM oil, or simply a name brand conventional. 5K would be easy to do with any oil and that much top off.
 
I would not dilute the M1 with dino.... how about buying two of the 5 qt jugs at wallyworld ($22 or $26 here) when you change oil and top off with that? then extend your OCI a little
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
With that kind of consumption, I'd ditch Mobil 1 all together. Try a HM oil, or simply a name brand conventional. 5K would be easy to do with any oil and that much top off.


I agree. Try Maxlife semi syn because I am totally sold on that oil for slowing down leaks and also for not burning off. Very robust oil.
 
It's run M1 for last 130,000 miles. Currently at 170,000. Current fill has 7k miles on it. A mixture of 6 quarts Syntec, (start fill) 1-2 qt M1, 1 qt wally supertech full synthetic, K/N filter.

Last change I had a bottle of wally supertech full synthetic laying around the garage, so I used that to top off. I was just sick of looking at it. And don't remember how it made its way into my garage.

Maybe I will try the maxlife semi until wintertime, then throw the M1 back in b/c I want a full synthetic cold flow oil in the winter months.
 
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I'd switch to a high mileage motor oil as mentioned above or start using a heavy duty engine oil like Rotella 15w40.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick_Escalante
I run M1 10W-30 5k-8k intervals, w/ a Purolator pureone filter. Since my motor leaks/burns 1 qt per 1200-1500 miles, ( 3.5 L Chrysler ) I have to add 1 qt at that interval.

So, usually I am adding 2-3 quarts of new oil before an oil change. What would be a decent/economical top off oil to use, since M1 is expensive, or extend my OCI? thx.
I would just keep topping off and change the filter out at 6K miles and keep going, no need to drain the pan at all.

Plus those 3.5's are virtually indestructible engines so you will be more than fine doing this IMO.

Failing that, you could try switching to a high mileage oil like Valvoline and see if you can soften/swell the leaking seals a bit. Or run an ARX treatment for double the mileage on the bottle and see what that yeilds you.
 
If you don't switch from using a full synthetic, I'd top off with something like the SuperTech synthetic.

However, I'd switch over to something like the Valvoline MaxLife Semi-synthetic or even the M1 High Mileage, and see if it doesn't help the consumption any.

As previously mentioned, you're going through a lot of oil at this point.
 
Originally Posted By: ionbeam22
M1 high milage, and/or a quart of lucas oil stabiliser


Maybe I will throw a bottle of the lucas oil stabiliser in the motor and see what happens.
 
No LUCAS in the engine oil... Can lead to disastrous results!!!!!

Either try HM oil, ARX, keep topping up, or fix the problem properly.

LUCAS could cost you more than you bargained for.
wink.gif
 
Please put down and step away from the lucas...switch to HM syn blend and you'll be happier with your cost/performance. Many highly reputable folks that post here have thoroughly flogged the idea of adding this type of product to your oil. If you look in the VOA section you will find a few tests that show there is nothing in the product but thicker base oil. I mean if you had a noise and were trying to quiet it down for ditching the vehicle then by all means have fun playing around with engine snot, but if you want to keep your vehicle I would advise against it.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
No LUCAS in the engine oil... Can lead to disastrous results!!!!!




I wouldn't go that far in not recomending Lucas. It does have a track record of............well, making people's wallets lighter, but just like Fram filters, engines aren't kicking out rods because of the stuff.

With that said, I'd simply switch to a HM oil. Valvoline Maxlife is what I use with good results in oil consumers.
 
Originally Posted By: Gilitar
I'd switch to a high mileage motor oil as mentioned above or start using a heavy duty engine oil like Rotella 15w40.


Or even Delo 400 10W-30 or Rotella T 10W-30. They still have all of the good stuff...
 
OK, I currently have 12 qts of M1 10W-30 inventory. I was going to use some of it in the next change, but now I'm headin to AAP to get a new radio antenna, and I have the $10 off $25> coupon, so I was thinking of getting a 2 qts of PP to try out to get me over the $25 mark. This is all very confusing now since I've joined BITOG.
 
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Originally Posted By: Nick_Escalante
I have the $10 off $25> coupon, so I was thinking of getting a 2 qts of PP to try out to get me over the $25 mark.


Two quarts of PP isn't going to provide any sort of a significant change here...

You're going to have to make a bigger change to what you're doing than that. A whole crankcase full of something different is what you're needing.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Why bother using M1 with those circumstances in the first place?


+1
 
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