99' Honda Accord 2.3L PP 9,777 miles

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I've been running various oils in the Accord beater to see how they fared. This may not be the most scientific test, but it is kinda interesting to see how wear changes with different oils.

I started with Castrol GTX 10W30 which did pretty well considering I ran it 10,000 miles.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...211#Post1518211

Next I ran Castrol Syntec 5W30 for 10,000 miles

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...749#Post1692749

Now I've run Penzoil Platinum 5W30 for 9,777 miles

1999 Honda Accord 4cyl 2.3L EX Auto
Oil: Penzoil Platinum 5W30
Filter: Purolator PureOne PL14459 (9,777 miles on filter)

Blackstone was the lab used.

This sample had about 5 months of time on the oil, 9,777 miles. I had to add 1 quart of makeup oil over the 9,777 miles. Vehicle has 155,105 miles on the clock. It seems the sump does fine until over 6,000 miles where I start to notice I need to add oil. This was the same with the Syntec on the last oil change. However, only adding .75 - 1qt of oil over 10,000 miles I'm not complaining on a motor with over 155K on it.

COMMENTS:
Lead held steady this time, which in our book is second best to an improvement. All other wear metals continued to read around averages, suggesting no other issues are developing at 155,105 miles. The TBN read 3.8 this time, so you still have plenty of active additive left. As far as going longer on the oil, lead is the only thing giving us reservations. You could try 11,000 miles if you wanted. The oil was in good shape physically, containing no moisture, fuel, or signs of coolant, and the viscosity was fine for 5W/30 oil. Check back on lead.

ELEMENTS IN PARTS PER MILLION
Aluminum: 3
Chromium: 0
Iron: 6
Copper: 4
Lead: 11
Tin: 4
Molybdenum: 55
Nickel: 1
Manganese: 0
Silver: 0
Titanium: 0
Potassium: 0
Boron: 26
Silicon: 12
Sodium: 8
Calcium: 3151
Magnesium: 11
Phosphorus: 649
Zinc: 788
Barium: 0

PROPERTIES:
SUS Viscosity @210*F: 61.6
cSt Viscosity @ 100*C: 10.68
Fuel %: Antifreeze %: 0.0
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles %: 0.3
TBN: 3.8 (Speedy Note: I added 1qt about a month before sample taken)

You'll note that while lead stayed at 11ppm, it dropped from 18ppm from using Castrol GTX 10W30. Lead was also at 11ppm using the Syntec, but iron dropped from 9ppm to 6ppm with the Penzoil Platinum. For $20 for a 5qt tub I like Penzoil Platinum oil and now use it in several of my cars.

Next I may test Mobil1 5W30.
 
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Looks good, I'd stick with the PP. Wear looks good, cheaper than Syntec too. Although testing M1 5w30 would be nice too, lot's of data to compare.
 
So far,the the PP seems best. But you might be slightly skewing the results,depending on when and how much top up oil you are adding. Agree,the new,thicker,M1 formula would be an interesting try. My hip shot,best oil,would be M1 EP. You could also drop the oci to reduce wear metals in the fill. Old school method is to change,when you notice a significant oil drop,which appears to be 6,000 for you.
 
This is a car that sees A LOT of miles (2000 to 2500 monthly) so my main goal here is to make it as cheap to operate as possible within reason.

I like the 10K OCI and based on previous analysis a filter change every other oil change is A OK as well for 20K miles on the Purolator PureOne filter.

The Mobil1 5W30 is $23 for a 5qt tub at WallyWorld as well, so it will be interesting to test it as well.
 
I understand your reasoning. I think the short 4 month oci helps you. You are also running a good filter and a low wear engine. The EP 5-30 is $28 down here for the 5 q. jug at wm. I'd try 7500,but,that's just me. Looking forward to the next report. Stay safe.
 
4,5 qt capacity? So almost 25% fresh oil means you had better get that amount of better results.
 
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