98 V70_CV Boot Replacement

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I recently noticed that both outer boots have small tears in them, about 1/2" (12mm) or so. The inners look OK. Also, the steering rack boots are also badly torn, nearly all the way through, on both sides. These are not the original axles. My indy replaced them years ago when I also had torn boots because the overall cost was less than just replacing the boots. However, this time I intend on doing the work. I don't hear any clicking/clunking at all. So I want to get after this before it gets worse and damages the joint. After viewing a few video's it looks rather straightforward, if messy and greasy. I'll need a 18mm socket and open end. I'm also considering replacing both axle seals. Open to all suggestions/tips/tricks as well as who makes a reputable CV boot out of a quality material, that will go the distance. TIA....
 
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Originally Posted By: sleddriver
I recently noticed that both outer boots have small tears in them, about 1/2" (12mm) or so. The inners look OK. Also, the steering rack boots are also badly torn, nearly all the way through, on both sides. These are not the original axles. My indy replaced them years ago when I also had torn boots because the overall cost was less than just replacing the boots. However, this time I intend on doing the work. I don't hear any clicking/clunking at all. So I want to get after this before it gets worse and damages the joint. After viewing a few video's it looks rather straightforward, if messy and greasy. I'll need a 18mm socket and open end. I'm also considering replacing both axle seals. Open to all suggestions/tips/tricks as well as who makes a reputable CV boot out of a quality material, that will go the distance. TIA....
The question is did the indy use OE or reman CV axles? If he used new Chinese made ones the boot may be different then OE. If they are OE then Rockford Boots are the best in the business. You will need to call them as their catalog is way out of date but they will fix you up. http://www.rockfordcv.com/rcvboot.htm
 

JOD

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I used OEM boots made by LOBRO, but that was a long time ago and I have no clue if they're still available. I also completely agree w/Trav--if it's a re-ground or Chinese axle that was used for the replacement, then I wouldn't bother doing a re-boot on them. I found it pretty easy to do. I used a couple of 5 gallon bucks w/ degreaser to soak them, along with brake cleaner and compressed air. I do remember it being a very messy job!
 
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Sled, Most aftermarket rebuilt axles are garbage. If you had one of them, you would likely have known fairly quickly (2-3 years max). Fortunately, most decent Volvo indys know this and avoid them. I know my indy does. If your indy used a reputable replacement axle, you should be fine with a reboot. FCP is your friend: http://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/V70/Steering-Rack/?year=1998&m=206&e=153 http://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/V70/CV-Joint/?year=1998&m=206&e=153 For the amount of labor involved, if you are planning to keep the car long-haul, I'd go with the genuine part. Just don't open the package yet. After you clean out the joint, inspect it for excessive wear and damage. If the joint is bad, return the boot kits and replace the axle. But it's likely fine if you caught it early. Make sure you have the correct crimp tools. Now's a good time to take a look at the front wheel bearings and the stabilizer links while you're under there.
 

sleddriver

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Update: A bit of research has revealed that GKN-Loebro is the OEM for Volvo. Oddly enough, I found them locally at a Car Pro/Quest for $27/ea. Pelican carries them for nearly half ($13.50), but shipping is $10. Autohausaz isn't answering their line for some reason. They list "bay state" and "crp" as lines. Unable to verify beyond this. Eeuro carries Rein for $24 which have only lasted a few years at most according to Volvo forums. FCP carries GKN's for about $21/ea + $10 s/h. I suspect my axle may be an FEQ or DSS?, according to a local indy Volvo shop. It probably came from a World-pac warehouse. They have Rein outer boots....for $60/ea!!! Yikes. Re: RockfordCV. No joy there Trav. He indicated they haven't kept up with the boot market.
 

sleddriver

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Update II: Finally got through to AutohausAz. CRP is Continental Rubber Products, the same company that makes belts, etc. Said their quality is excellent. Their kit is both Inner & Outer, with Oetikers, clips and Meistersatz grease. About $24/side + $12 s/h. IPD only carries Empi.
 
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Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Re: RockfordCV. No joy there Trav. He indicated they haven't kept up with the boot market.
Sorry for the bum steer. So far i have had luck with them but i haven't done a Volvo or a lot of others for that matter. Still they are worth keeping in mind, they claim to have 220 different boots and they are very high quality if they have them for your model.
 

sleddriver

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Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Re: RockfordCV. No joy there Trav. He indicated they haven't kept up with the boot market.
Sorry for the bum steer. So far i have had luck with them but i haven't done a Volvo or a lot of others for that matter. Still they are worth keeping in mind, they claim to have 220 different boots and they are very high quality if they have them for your model.
No worries! He said they stopped at 1997. I then asked for an 850 model, but he only had non-turbo. I declined as I think the driveshaft diameters are larger than for the T's. Oh well. . . . it was worth chasing down. One never knows...
 

sleddriver

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Update: I dropped by the local Car Quest/Pro/something that had the GKN-Loebro made outer CV boots in stock for $27.45 ea. I showed the manager the Pelican ad for the same thing for $13.50. Said the lowest he would go is $25.95. Said he's "unable" to go any lower. With tax that comes to $56.25. From Pelican + shipping, it's $37. That's nearly a $20 difference. The inner boots turned out to not be GKN, but Empi. They didn't tell me over the phone the manufacturers were not the same. I've decided to get the Continental's from Autohausaz, because they include both inner & outer for $23.62/side. Since I'll be pulling the axles, might as well do the inner boots as well and be done with it. BTW, the axles were replaced sometime in 2005, around 110,540 miles. Odd I don't have an entry in the log for this. Must have missed it. So these axles have about 100,000 miles on them.
 

sleddriver

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Update II: Much to my surprise, Autohausaz shipped Rein boots instead of Contis as advertised!! Mistake? Perhaps. But I don't like it at all when they list one manufacturer then substitute another without authorization, especially when it's a cheaper product (IMHO) compared to Continental. The steering boots are made by "Professional Parts Sweden" Which is just a name...so far. I wasn't after top quality here, just something to replace the torn steering boots before the rainy (?) season hits. More later....
 

sleddriver

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Update III: Decided today to replace the passenger side spring seat & upper strut bearing to finally ease my angst. Joy there! Then I thought I'd go after the outer passenger CV boot. I now have the axle in the vice and have been attempting to remove the CV joint for nearly 2-1/2 hrs. Frustrating indeed. First, the c-clip is the slipperest one I've ever encountered. I've tried both straight and 90° tips. Tried a small screwdriver, even tried my nice wire strippers whose tips are square on the outside instead of round. I've been able to get the joint to move, but not vary far. What's happening is I expand the c-clip then get in one hit and have to reset. I'm now wondering if the ends of the c-clip need to be squeezed together rather than spread apart, like all other instructions say to do. Don't have any experience here to fall back on. Some say to expand the ring, then hammer the joint off. I tried that first, then realized that 180° from where I was prying the ends apart, the back was still stuck in the recess. So it wasn't clear. At one time I did seem to have the c-clip riding on top of the splines around the shaft's circumference (at least where I could see), but it wasn't coming off easily. (I wonder if they locktighted-it together with red?) I taped it on the axle nut end then took this photo: Focus is a bit off. It's hanging straight down in my little vise, so I had to zoom in. You can see the c-clip recess in the shaft. The c-clip is below that, riding on the splines. I'm surprised in this state the bloody-thing won't come off! Bugger-me! Any suggestions? BTW, I don't believe these are the original axles. They came from WorldPac. My indy did the work years ago as axle replacement was cheaper than boot replacement! I now understand why!! Royal PITA.......and a greasy one at that!
 

sleddriver

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Update IV: I haven't made any progress. FUBAR. I even remembered I had an air chisel I'd forgotten about. I mushroomed the end of the chisel! This task just keeps beating me up, down & sideways. This is a job for an octopus! I'm beginning to wonder if these axles are not made to have the joints removed. They're pull & replace rather than re-fit. I'm working with the passenger side which is much LONGER than the drivers. I haven't pulled out the torch yet...... I've also thought I could go after the other end, but then there is the big bearing in the way and the balance shaft (which appears to be removeable). On the drivers side, this would be rather straightforward trick.
 
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It comes apart. Squeeze the ever loving dickens out of the ring and give it a tug. Worst case- leave the vice open enough that the shaft will slide through it and slide hammer the housing into the side of the vice jaws. Just try no to get too carried away..
 

sleddriver

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I now understand why many just replace their axles! Much easier and faster though I've read concerns of getting "decent" rebuilds. Both of mine had been done this way previously by my indy, as there was less labor & cost involved. Perhaps this is why the joint was so difficult to remove? My small snap-ring pliers were barely up to the job, and I didn't have a compatible tip set to prevent the clip from continuously slipping off. The real key was discovering a long-forgotten air hammer in my tool chest. My heart lept for joy! Even with only a small hotdog compressor, it sure beat swinging a sledge hammer from an uncomfortable angle. I consider one of these necessary in this case. I marveled at how easily some videos showed moving the ball cage around to remove them. No joy with mine. They were very firm. Took the insertion of a long socket into the axle recess, with a long extension to do this, and still wasn't able to rotate the cage far enough to remove them. So I sprayed it out and wiped off as much grease as possible. To save my workbench top, I laid down a large piece of cardboard. Lots of paper towels are necessary as they absorbed the grease well and are cheap. I also found the use of newspaper convienent for wiping off grease, dirt and my hands. I also used some blue-rubber gloves as they hold up much better than latex gloves. They're also cheap and disposable. Suspension work is just really dirty. As I was working on the passenger side, the axle is much longer. I didn't take apart the inner joint. I found the use of a large C-clamp handy to keep hold up the long "tail" end while the outer joint was in the vise. I fixed the clamp to the benches top near the edge and slid the tail through it for support. Reassembling the joint was an equal amount of work. It didn't slip on easily. Further, it's necessary to check the position of the clip & groove periodically to insure it's fully seated. Except now it has to be done through a bunch of thick black grease! Again, the air hammer saved the day here. I had to go at it about 10 times as the compressor would barely last 45 sec. I noticed on a BMW video there are no ring "tangs" to compress and that the ring goes onto the shaft before the joint is assembled. Not with these, the ring goes into joint. Another handy tip is to hang the hub and brake assemblies from the strut spring to get them out of the way and make it easier on your shoulders! As I had removed the strut to replace both the spring seat & bearing, I used a bungy through the hole to the other side of the engine compartment to hold up the brake. For the much heavier hub, I ran a piece of strong cord through the top hole, up through the hole where the strut mounts and tied it off to a piece of 2x2 spanning the hole. I found this much more stable than trying to balance it on the end of a jackstand, where it could easily fall off (the jower control arm had been disconnected from the frame). One more thing...the passenger side has no clip on the end of the shaft that goes into the transmission as the driver side. Don't panic when you don't see it there and think it was left inside. It easily slides in/out once the two 12mm bolts are removed from the outer bearing keeper, just inboard from the wheel well. BTW, this bearing is another thing to check. Mine shows some play, not much. But at the next boot repair in a few years, it'll be time to replace the whole axle itself. This might also be a cause of front end vibration at speed if you're having that problem. No doubt having done one and the more difficult in my opinion, will make the drivers side much easier. Its boot is split right where it joins the axle.
 

sleddriver

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Update: Yesterday I rebooted the drivers side. My indy quickly took care of the axle nut as I was unable to budge it at all: I bent a piece of 5' pipe and broke an extension. I found a nice pair of horseshoe-ring retaining pliers at Sears for ~ $14. They have the right kind of nose to deal with these rings. Amazingly, the outer end wasn't fully seated when I removed the boot and it easily released with the air chisel. Wasn't able to fully rotate the cage enough to remove the balls here either. Way too tight. The inner joint won't come apart like I've seen in some videos. The edges have been peened over to prevent removal! So I wiped out as much old grease as possible, squirted in new and installed a new boot. Easy. I made sure to fully seat the retaining ring upon reassembly. Very nice to have this all done. Rain is expected Sunday evening!
 

sleddriver

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Old Thread Update: Recently discovered that the inner edge of the pass. side outer boot has a tear! Not sure how that happened! The other side is fine fortunately. I used a Rein inner/outer boot kit. Not sure if the boot got a tear from road junk or it just came apart on its own. I'm bummed though....it would have to be the passenger side too! Rats..... I did discover that AutohausAZ DOES carry the GKN/Loebro outer boots for about $12/each. But they don't list them as available like the other parts. Weird.....instead they make a reference to it within another parts description. You need to cut & paste that part number into their search box to get to it. This is definitely a quality boot. Feels very good in the hands and made of thick neoprene rubber. The kit comes complete with a new axle nut, grease, two Oeticker clamps & the boot. This is a heck of a deal for such a low price. Unexpected that. The Sled's been getting A LOT of attention from her owner. Just finished up new brake pads on all four corners + a DOT-4 brake fluid flush & new outer tie rod ends. The ball joint boots on the others were badly ripped and had been in there since the rack was replaced. Amazed the BJ's themselves are not sloppy.
 
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Surprised you had trouble with these CV's. After a lifetime of smacking CV joints with internal circlips, finding an external clip on Volvo's was an eye opener - like, did the guy who designed these have trouble getting a CV off one day? Didn't follow this thread at the time, although I did do inner and outer boots on a V70 in the same period...but now I have the 850, and I did the left outer boot earlier this year. Brilliant - pull the boot back, release the clip and remove joint, clean, reassemble.
 
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