96 Ram Van B1500 stalling

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KeithG

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Feb 11, 2008
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I've been using my FIL's van this summer. Its got the 3.9 V-6. Lately its been stalling at idle when the transmission is engaged. It also rarely stalls when coasting to a stop.

The van has 110K miles but been driven very infrequently for the past few years. I have tools and access to Chilton online, but I hope I'd get some 'task priority' tips from those of you that work on these bad boys.

Right now, the van has new oil & filter, air filter, and a bottle of sea foam in its gas. I've always been suspect of the fuel pump that was installed about 5 years ago, because it does stumble when the gas gets below 1/4 tank.

I had a look at one spark plug, and its tips looked quite good, but there was some rust around the threads. The vacuum hoses and PCV all appear fine.

What should I do? What are the prime suspects? What parts should I buy? There's a tune-up kit for $20 that I'm tempted to order. But Chiltons lists other items for causes for stalling at idle.

BTW, when I idle the engine with the air cleaner lid off, there is a loud hiss coming from the butterfly valve intake. That's normal isn't it?
 
I should also add, that I can't read any error codes from the van. My Actron tool does connect to it and appears to support it: but no codes are found.

Interesting, Danno. Driving it this morning, I was hearing some fairly distint clicks coming from the engine that sounded like solenoids. I thought it was an AC clutch, but the timing wasn't right. I heard the clicks every 20-30 seconds, but couldn't understand a pattern related to AT lockup.
 
Does it even have a lock up torque converter? Dodge held on to some pretty antiquated 3 speed autos for quite a while ...

How about the IAC valve? TPS?
 
Originally Posted By: KeithG
I've been using my FIL's van this summer. Its got the 3.9 V-6. Lately its been stalling at idle when the transmission is engaged. It also rarely stalls when coasting to a stop.

The van has 110K miles but been driven very infrequently for the past few years. I have tools and access to Chilton online, but I hope I'd get some 'task priority' tips from those of you that work on these bad boys.

Right now, the van has new oil & filter, air filter, and a bottle of sea foam in its gas. I've always been suspect of the fuel pump that was installed about 5 years ago, because it does stumble when the gas gets below 1/4 tank.

I had a look at one spark plug, and its tips looked quite good, but there was some rust around the threads. The vacuum hoses and PCV all appear fine.

What should I do? What are the prime suspects? What parts should I buy? There's a tune-up kit for $20 that I'm tempted to order. But Chiltons lists other items for causes for stalling at idle.

BTW, when I idle the engine with the air cleaner lid off, there is a loud hiss coming from the butterfly valve intake. That's normal isn't it?



Did you clean out the throttle body and throttle plate? Try that first.

Regards, JC.
 
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Sticky idle air control valve would be my guess. On the Magnums, the IAC air inlet is tucked between the two venturis of the throttle body. Blasting it with short spritzes of carb/throttle cleaner with the engine idling was my general cure when I had Magnums. Spritz until it nearly stalls, let it recover, repeat. Do it a dozen times and the IAC valve should be clean. The drop in RPM makes the computer exercise the valve while the cleaner is passing through it.
 
Thanks everyone. I've got my list for tonight.

About the TPS, are there maintenance options for inspecting or cleaning? Or is it pretty much a 'check the voltages and replace if necessary" kind of item?

At lunch today, I took it for a spin and almost got stranded. More stalling then this morning. Its a pretty hot day, BTW. I also am wondering if the heat wave of the past few weeks has anything to do with it?
 
Yank the TB and pull the AIS and TPS. Clean the TB.

Also do the key dance for codes, on off on off on, watch the odometer for the codes.

Could also be a bad MAP sensor, check the fuel pressure on the rail.
 
The symptoms are unlikely to be a sensor in the distributor, however, I frequently need to replace those on Magnum 3.9 engines.
 
Thanks all. I don't want to waste your time with anything, but I have some frustration to report, after some initial success.

I cleaned the IACV with carb cleaner and a bit of seafoam deep creep with the engine idling. I noticed a vacuum line connected to the TB just opposite the IACV was cracked quite a good bit. So I replaced that 2 inch section of tubeing and put things back together. I quick test of idling wasn't conclusive, but there was some improvement.

This morning the van will not start. It's like it has either no spark or fuel. I noticed that I had overfilled the oil by about 1/2 quart, it looks like. (I added less than 5 quarts after a full drain and filter change.) Perhaps the plugs are fouled? Maybe the deep creep through the IACV was a bad idea.

Anyway, I'll get things figured out tonight. But, illuminating me on what I may have done wrong is definitely welcome.

I'll keep adding details for future reference.
 
It seems the van has no spark. I pulled two plugs and got nothing from either when I touched the plugged in plug tip to an engine bolt (while cranking.) I then charged the battery and tested for spark again after darkness fell.

Do test the coil now or head straight for the distributor?
 
I didn't read fully,thought 2 wires no spark only.
Check cap/rotor for arcing to ground.
So if no spark, could check for voltage to the coil primary & if voltage is present, check coil secondary with ohms.
If no voltage to primary, is this one that has a ASD relay?
Crankshaft Position Sensor that inputs to the power-train control module to the ASD relay?
Just some quick thoughts tat come to mind...
 
Well it looks like there's no voltage to the coil. I'm not sure how to understand some of the tips posted above. Please give me a bit more detail on how to proceed.

For example, can I test the crankshaft pos. sensor? Is that the sensor in the distrbutor?
 
Another quick question. Is it normal to hear a slight buzz from your battery every once in a while? If I listen closely, I can hear just that. It happens for a fraction of a second, every handful of seconds.
 
Originally Posted By: KeithG
Well it looks like there's no voltage to the coil. I'm not sure how to understand some of the tips posted above. Please give me a bit more detail on how to proceed.

For example, can I test the crankshaft pos. sensor? Is that the sensor in the distrbutor?


I am fairly certain the crankshaft sensor is not in the distributor, but you would need a service manual to be sure.
 
A buzzing battery? What kind of voltage is it reading before starting, during and after stopping the engine?

Follow ground wires from battery to engine. Remove clean retighten. Do not look and proclaim them fine. Do the same for battery to firewall. An additional ground from frame to engine is beneficial. When battery is disconnected, remove and inspect the connectors at the engine computer. Far too much rainwater makes far too close to these wires/connectors and eventually leads to issues.

CPS is on transmission bell housing. The hall effect sensor in the distributor, on that year van, is for fuel injector timing. DO not attempt to spin distributor to change timing.

Next time it refuses to start in the morning when cold, hit the engine computer with a hair dryer for a few minutes to warm it.

If it then starts, order a new engine computer.
 
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