Car stalling coming to a stop

Just guessing, because that’s all we can do here, but I’m leaning towards the valve body. You said the shifting seemed to improve after the torque converter replacement. Did you experience rough or delayed shifting before?

It seems that you’ve covered most of the guesswork here. It needs to have someone get in it and actually diagnose the problem.
Best of luck to you.
it never shifted bad enough for it to feel like there is a problem!

The first step in diagnosing a problem is to scan all computers for codes.
Zero codes whatsoever! My mechanic said it’s probably a purely mechanical issue in that case.
 
it never shifted bad enough for it to feel like there is a problem!


Zero codes whatsoever! My mechanic said it’s probably a purely mechanical issue in that case.
Zero codes? Did your tech scan the transmission computer? What tool was used to scan the car?
 
Sounds like you should replace the transmission, and if that doesn't work try replacing the engine. And if that doesn't work try replacing the car.

Just kidding! But don't let your mechanics fire the parts cannon at your car! Anything significant enough to repeatedly make your engine stall should be able to be diagnosed.

Maybe a code isn't being flagged but there are plenty of diagnostics a real professional scan tool ($$$$) can utilize. Datalogging, graphs, all sorts of stuff. Find whatever the cause is before randomly firing parts at it.
 
Why does a dip in RPM have to be the transmission? Honestly, that is a common symptom of cam phasers not locking at idle due to low oil pressure when fully warmed up. IF:
A - this is a transverse 3.5 liter V6
B - it happens only when the ENGINE oil is hot
C - you are running Xw20 oil
D - it goes away with a blip in throttle
those are classic symptoms of phasers not locking up. As a quick check, put a Xw30 weight in there and see if it goes away. Cheaper than firing the parts cannon at the transmission.
 
Sounds like you should replace the transmission, and if that doesn't work try replacing the engine. And if that doesn't work try replacing the car.

Just kidding! But don't let your mechanics fire the parts cannon at your car! Anything significant enough to repeatedly make your engine stall should be able to be diagnosed.

Maybe a code isn't being flagged but there are plenty of diagnostics a real professional scan tool ($$$$) can utilize. Datalogging, graphs, all sorts of stuff. Find whatever the cause is before randomly firing parts at it.
The stall happens only once every few months though! I took it to a Ford dealer and they didn't want to do more than a 5 min road test despite paying $200 for the diag.

I have data logs but they're not sure what the problem is.

Why does a dip in RPM have to be the transmission? Honestly, that is a common symptom of cam phasers not locking at idle due to low oil pressure when fully warmed up. IF:
A - this is a transverse 3.5 liter V6
B - it happens only when the ENGINE oil is hot
C - you are running Xw20 oil
D - it goes away with a blip in throttle
those are classic symptoms of phasers not locking up. As a quick check, put a Xw30 weight in there and see if it goes away. Cheaper than firing the parts cannon at the transmission.
Thanks I will give this a try! Would it happen when cruising around the city?

Before I changed the torque converter it would happen after like 20ish mins of highway driving, I need to go closer to an hour for it to happen so that's why we kept assuming it's the transmission. If I put the car in neutral it won't do the drop.
 
3.5 Ecoboost?
Did it have a FPCM under recall 16S31?

Purge valve sticking open (throwing off mixture)
Does it restart easily, or is it a hard start/no start hot?
Not an ecoboost, if the valve sticks open wouldn't it trip a code? I changed the purge valve in the engine bay when I was firing the parts canon.
 
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