6013 vs 7018 Electrodes

[George7941]

I am using a Lincoln Electric IdealArc 250 set at 90 amps DC, electrode positive. 3/32 electrodes. I cannot lay a decent bead down with 6013. It comes out uneven and with lots of spatter. I find 7018 to be much easier to use. Both electrodes are about a year old and kept in the plastic screw top containers which I pick up on sale for $5. In spite of the very stringent storage requirements for 7018, there has been no noticeable deterioration in the performance of the year old 7018s.

The 6013s are Power Weld brand, I think Chinese/Taiwanese made whereas the 7018s are Canadian made. I have had the similar results with 1/8 in electrodes. 6010 beads are also very uneven but that is to be expected. If the current is set lower than 90 amps for the 3/32 it becomes difficult to maintain the arc.

Is the issue the age of the 6013 or the skill of the operator (me) or is it just the way 6013 is?

 

[ragtoplvr]

7018 is easier to run but must be flat. You lightly drag the flux on the surface. Part must be clean

6013 you have to practice to regulate arc length but it will weld all position but not well. Metal must be clean and prepared as it will not penetrate very far.

6011 is better all position AC rod and can burn thru some rust. It will also burn thru what you are welding and much more practice is needed. It is a great repair of broken stuff rod. You will have to burn many sticks up to get good at it. This is the more common farmers weld rod; The weld looks terrible, part welded does not fall of very easy.

Rod

 

[FlyNavyP3]

Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
7018 is easier to run but must be flat. You lightly drag the flux on the surface. Part must be clean

6013 you have to practice to regulate arc length but it will weld all position but not well. Metal must be clean and prepared as it will not penetrate very far.

6011 is better all position AC rod and can burn thru some rust. It will also burn thru what you are welding and much more practice is needed. It is a great repair of broken stuff rod. You will have to burn many sticks up to get good at it. This is the more common farmers weld rod; The weld looks terrible, part welded does not fall of very easy.

Rod


7018 doesn't have to be flat at all, it's an all position rod and in fact the rod used for all my certification welds back in the day for both all position plate and pipe. 7024 is a flat drag rod.

I never much cared for 6011 or 6013, I much prefer a 6010 for its excellent penetration and quick freezing for positions other than flat or fillet welds.

OP laying a flat bead on a chunk of plate doesn't give anywhere for the puddle to go, try welding a fillet or inside/outside corner and see if you like your results better.

 

[doitmyself]

And I thought I was the only one still stick welding in 2018. I take grief about this similar to my flip phone use.

 

[ragtoplvr]

I am just a hobby/farmer welder, I always thought 7018 was a drag rod. 6010 is DC only so most us hobby or farmer welders do not use it. I do agree, DC is much easier to run and 6010 is easier to make look good than 6011. Wish I had a dc box..

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3


I never much cared for 6011 or 6013,


The two are NOT to be compared!

6011 to 6013 = "apples to bananas" ...... they look the same, but the similarities end there.

I wish 6013 would cease to be made anymore, there really isn't any use for it.

People keep buying those craappy rods and learning the hard way, though.........................

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by doitmyself
And I thought I was the only one still stick welding in 2018.


Then................ Spend some time in oilfield country and get a WHOLE NEW education.

 

[CT8]

The welders at work used [ I have retired out of productive work since 2000] to recommend 7018 for non pro welders as a good all around welding rod. That is all I know and the stuff I have welded at work didn't break.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by CT8
The welders at work used to recommend 7018 for non pro welders as a good all around welding rod.


6011 is actually far more versatile, can be used on "rusty metal" and also "mystery steel" .... and is VERY forgiving of errors.

 

[Delta]

Originally Posted by doitmyself
And I thought I was the only one still stick welding in 2018. I take grief about this similar to my flip phone use.


Stick welders are still common "in the field". We have a 480V Miller on a wheeled cart that we use for repairs on machinery throughout the plant. It's the quickest method so we don't have to shut down an area for long. We mostly use 7018 rods. For in the shop fab we use mig, although I still prefer stick welding.

 

[jhellwig]

6013 is An AC electrode for clean steal. It is a very easy electrode to weld with like that.

 

[tom slick]

Originally Posted by jhellwig
6013 is An AC electrode for clean steal. It is a very easy electrode to weld with like that.

I agree, it's an AC rod.

I prefer a 6010 root with a 7018 cap.

 

[jhellwig]

Originally Posted by tom slick
Originally Posted by jhellwig
6013 is An AC electrode for clean steal. It is a very easy electrode to weld with like that.

I agree, it's an AC rod.

I prefer a 6010 root with a 7018 cap.


I have seen pipe welded with just 7018 and the 6010 root 7018 cap and never understood the reason for the second other than 6010 makes an ugly weld. I am assuming the metallurgy has something to do with it.

I am not a welder but can make a decent weld with 7018.

 

[tom slick]

Originally Posted by jhellwig
Originally Posted by tom slick
Originally Posted by jhellwig
6013 is An AC electrode for clean steal. It is a very easy electrode to weld with like that.

I agree, it's an AC rod.

I prefer a 6010 root with a 7018 cap.


I have seen pipe welded with just 7018 and the 6010 root 7018 cap and never understood the reason for the second other than 6010 makes an ugly weld. I am assuming the metallurgy has something to do with it.

I am not a welder but can make a decent weld with 7018.


7018 is more ductile and easier to weld with.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by jhellwig

I have seen pipe welded with just 7018 and the 6010 root 7018 cap and never understood the reason for the second other than 6010 makes an ugly weld. I am assuming the metallurgy has something to do with it. I am not a welder but can make a decent weld with 7018.


Not metallurgy - penetration.

60xx digs in a lot deeper than 7018. 7018 is the cap for looks, not strength

 

[George7941]

7018 is easy to work with but if I am making a number of short welds, I go for 6013 or 6010 because of the difficulty in starting the arc with a partially used 7018 rod. Filing the tip only helps to an extent, it is still somewhat difficult to start the arc.

 

[tig1]

Only one rod does not perform well in all applications. There is definitely a place for a 6011 rods(I don't care for 6013 or 6010 rods) as I have used several thousand of them. Also a place for 7018 rods. I have used thousands of them in various sizes. Chose the correct rod for the application needed. If you have a question PM me.

 

[137_Trenton]

Your consistency seems to be all over the place so I wouldn't blame the rods just yet. The first thing you want to do is clean your steel down to bright shiny metal. Yes SMAW can handle dirtier/crustier metal, but it's also so much easier (especially for beginners) to weld on clean base metal. Also when I am teaching someone how to weld, I typically start them off with 1/8" electrodes. There are a couple reasons for this... #1 they are stiffer and can be easier to handle for a beginner, and #2 the weld puddle will be bigger and easier to see. Many people scream how bad 6013's are, but the truth is they are a fine rod for general purpose applications. You will hear all the time about worm holes, inconsistencies, weak welds etc... but the truth is they don't know how to run them properly. This is actually true for 6011 and 6010 as well. They produce ugly welds in the hands of poor welders, and very nice welds in the hands of skilled welders. As with most rods you must hold a very tight arc (flux coating will often be scraping against the base metal), and with 6013's you must hold a little more angle to your rod and use the arc force to push your slag to the back of the puddle. And here is the key... you must watch your weld pool and keep it consistent. It's not as visible with 6013's, but when you do finally see it, things will be much easier. 7018's are a favorite of many because they have a very clear and clean weld pool, and have very good mechanical properties (when they are stored properly). For general purpose work, 7014's are also a nice choice and even easier to use than 6013's. The 7014 is a drag/contact type rod in that the rod burns up inside the flux and it maintains your arc length as you drag the flux coating along the base metal. I'll have to see if I have any 6013's hanging around anywhere at home and burn a few beads some day and snap a few pictures. The best thing to do when you are learning is to take a flat plate of steel and just keep laying bead next to bead trying to keep things straight and consistent... it's called padding. There will come a point when you hit your "eureka" moment and things just come together for you.