5W30 or 0W40

[Astro14]

Hyundai is Asian built.

And?

Serious question. Does this mean that you can’t use European tires on it? European wax? European replacement bulbs in the lights?

The European oil specifications tend to be more stringent - harder to meet - than the Asian requirements.

So, why not run a European oil? The car won’t know where the oil came from - only you will know.

So far, my Tundra is doing OK on a European oil. But it’s a Toyota, built in San Antonio, TX, so, is it Asian, or is it domestic?

Also, I have European tires, made in Tennessee, on my “Asian” truck that was built in the USA. So far, so good. Before that, I had European (Michelin) tires, made in the USA, on the truck. It came with Asian tires, also, made in the USA…

 

[Carlostrece]

HPL has Fancy Sauce 0W-30 SP. now if you're not worried about spending this kind of cash, then i would go to walmart and pick up ESP 0W-30 and run that. happy oil hunting, old timer

https://www.advlubrication.com/coll...ssenger-car-engine-oil?variant=40523898880193

I thought of that, but I didn't think he'd want to spend HPL level dough. I believe HPL is probably the best 0w30 if price is no object, but the price makes my eyes water.

I think Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX is the best 0w30 that's marginally affordable.

I think Mobil 1 ESP is the best 0w30 that's affordable. It's also convenient to find/buy at Walmart.

 

[rumcapital23]

I thought of that, but I didn't think he'd want to spend HPL level dough. I believe HPL is probably the best 0w30 if price is no object, but the price makes my eyes water.

I think Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX is the best 0w30 that's marginally affordable.

I think Mobil 1 ESP is the best 0w30 that's affordable. It's also convenient to find/buy at Walmart.

yeah Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX is an excellent choice. but i think the Euro name on the jugs is scaring him from running it. maybe mobil advanced fuel economy 0W-30 is a good option idk.

 

[Astro14]

Affordable is an interesting concept - Wouldn’t affordable mean the lowest cost/mile?

Or is it the lowest cost/jug?

Because, if I spend a bit more on an oil that runs longer, I save on labor, time, and filters. All of which have value.

So the cheapest/cheaperprice per jug is not necessarily the lowest cost over the life of your vehicle.

 

[Carlostrece]

yeah Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX is an excellent choice. but i think the Euro name on the jugs is scaring him from running it. maybe mobil advanced fuel economy 0W-30 is a good option idk.

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy oil is thin weak sauce compared to the other 0w30 and 5w30 oils that have been recommened in this thread. Hopefully his thinking has adjusted to the reality that Euro oils are good (when affordable and conveniently available).

 

[Carlostrece]

Affordable is an interesting concept - Wouldn’t affordable mean the lowest cost/mile?

Or is it the lowest cost/jug?

Because, if I spend a bit more on an oil that runs longer, I save on labor, time, and filters. All of which have value.

So the cheapest/cheaperprice per jug is not necessarily the lowest cost over the life of your vehicle.

That depends on his situation, how long he intends to keep the car, if he changes oil himself, and if the car avoids collisions. In the past I had a Jeep that I I babied and oil price was not a concern. I used Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 in it. I maintained it meticulously because I planned to keep it for my lifetime. It got totaled in a car crash. So its lifetime was short. My choice of oil didn't extend its life at all.

Even if I still had that Jeep and even if it was in perfect running condition, I'm handicapped now and can no longer drive a car. So my choice of oil in that Jeep still wouldn't have helped me even if the Jeep hadn't crashed.

For some people's circumstances HPL makes sense. For others not. Even for those whom it makes sense now, they don't don't know if their situation might suddenly change without warning. Their car might get totalled tomorrow, or their health and ability to drive might suddenly disappear tomorrow or next year without warning.

With those lessons in mind, I look for good affordable oil, not the best oil because the best oil is expensive and either my car or myself might not live long enough to benefit from expensive oil.

I do agree that fewer oil changes saves money in some situations. But even that isn't guaranteed because the car might crash tomorrow or ability to drive might be lost.

Buying extremely expensive oil is betting the future will happen the way you plan. Hopefully it will, but it might not.

 

[goingplacesanddoingstuff]

If you’re absolutely stuck on Pennzoil and don’t see temps below -25f or so Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 will serve you well. Personally I’d run ESP 0W-30 available at Walmart.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 is very good even below that temp. I suspect it could almost pass as a 0w-30.

 

[Astro14]

That depends on his situation, how long he intends to keep the car, if he changes oil himself, and if the car avoids collisions. In the past I had a Jeep that I I babied and oil price was not a concern. I used Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 in it. I maintained it meticulously because I planned to keep it for my lifetime. It got totaled in a car crash. So its lifetime was short. My choice of oil didn't extend its life at all.

Even if I still had that Jeep and even if it was in perfect running condition, I'm handicapped now and can no longer drive a car. So my choice of oil in that Jeep still wouldn't have helped me even if the Jeep hadn't crashed.

For some people's circumstances HPL makes sense. For others not. Even for those whom it makes sense now, they don't don't know if their situation might suddenly change without warning. Theircar might get totalled tomorrow, or their health and ability to drive might suddenly disappear without warning.

With those lessons in mind, I look for good affordable oil, not the best oil because the best oil is expensive and either my car or myself might not live long enough to benefit from expensive oil.

I do agree that fewer oil changes saves money in some situations. But even that isn't guaranteed because the car might crash tomorrow or ability to drive might be lost.

Buying extremely expensive oil is betting the future will happen the way you plan. Hopefully it will, but it might not.

Exactly - so, by using better oil, you LOWER the cost/mile, and if your car gets totaled early, you will have SAVED money over the cheaper oil/more frequent changes.

You were overspending by using more expensive oil at shorter than needed intervals.

So, we agree - overspending doesn’t make sense. I am advocating thoughtful spending, not “meticulous maintenance” which is code for OCD and changing the oil before you have to.

Now, if by all that, you mean that you’re worried about the cost of the oil in the crankcase, then, I would suggest that you worry more about the loss from having new tires, or any other maintenance. The cost of the oil is inconsequential compared with the thousands of dollars that a collision will cost you.

 

[Carlostrece]

Exactly - so, by using better oil, you LOWER the cost/mile, and if your car gets totaled early, you will have SAVED money over the cheaper oil/more frequent changes.

You were overspending by using more expensive oil at shorter than needed intervals.

So, we agree - overspending doesn’t make sense. I am advocating thoughtful spending, not “meticulous maintenance” which is code for OCD and changing the oil before you have to.

Now, if by all that, you mean that you’re worried about the cost of the oil in the crankcase, then, I would suggest that you worry more about the loss from having new tires, or any other maintenance. The cost of the oil is inconsequential compared with the thousands of dollars that a collision will cost you.

There are many brands of extended OCI oils that aren't overly expensive. They're not as good as HPL (nor as extended as HPL), but are good enough (IMO) and cost a lot less. HPL is very good, but it's not for everyone. Different people have various different circumstances. That said, I do believe HPL is the best, but I don't need the best. I just need a plenty good enough oil at a good price that's easily and conveniently obtainable.

I'm not arguing against HPL for those who want it, need it, or think it financially benefits them. I'm just saying it's not the right choice for everyone. Each person needs to decide for themself.

 

[Japanese]

So, you don’t like better base stock and additive package in European oils?

Is this your answer to the above question?

It's a European blend. Hyundai...Korean/Asian

What oil is Asian blend than?

 

[Carlostrece]

What oil is Asian blend than?

I assume the answer is Idemitsu, if there is such a thing as Asian blend motor oil.

As you may know... Idemitsu is a Japanese oil company that specializes in making motor oil, PSF, and ATF for Asian cars; but AFAIK only its various ATF are made for specific car brands and models. Their motor oils and PSF are rated for and work in many brands of Asian and American cars. I don't know if their motor oils have European ratings.

 

[altaylar]

3 points:

1) Unless where you live sees extreme (read -30 F or lower), 0w30 and 5w30 will behave near identical. Assuming you are not posting from Alaska or Siberia, 5w30 is just fine. I dont even know why manufacturers specify cold grade.

2) If memory serves me right, PUP is near the thinnest limit of the grade, so is Mobil 1 0w40. If that was my car I wouldnt mind using Mobil 1 0w40, or PUP5w30

3)Respect to you being clear on having a liking for a certain brand/product. Probably all of the good brands have similar performance on average, but perhaps one particular product is more suitable for one application than the other. For you I think Pennzoil Ultra Platium 5w30 would work just fine

 

[edyvw]

Is this your answer to the above question?


What oil is Asian blend than?

Yes. He excluded LX bcs. it is Euro spec. oil. Why? He wants 0W30. It is available and one of the best on the market.

 

[alarmguy]

I wouldn’t hesitate to use 5/30 It has almost the same pump-ability at cold temperatures as 0/30

 

[lightrider]

As I said in an earlier post...

0w30 Quaker State Euro LX is available in Canada according to posts I've read by Canadian forum members. They said it's widely available in Canada, especially at Canadian Tire stores. You're not in Canada, but the exact same oil is available in USA with Pennzoil name on it.

0w30 Pennzoil Euro LX is available in USA from a few sellers. It's not widely available and is slightly expensive (5 qts $37 online). I don't know if that includes shipping.

The QS & P 0w30 are the exact same oil sold under 2 different brand names. I think it's the best mass produced, semi-affordable 0w30 oil. However, you don't need the best.

Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 (another Euro oil) is very good and is available at every Walmart (5 qts $28). You can buy Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 at Walmart for an affordable, easy solution.

All brands of 0w30 oils (that I know of) are Euro oils, which is good because Euro oils are high quality and work very well in Euro, Japanese, and American cars.

(Correction: Mobil 1 does offer Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30, but it's not as good as Mobil 1 ESP 0w30. Both Mobil 0w30 oils are available at Walmart).

Otherwise, use a high quality American 5w30, such as 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (5 qts $27 Walmart), or 5w30 Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic (5 qts $29 Walmart).

Yesterday I saw Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic oil on closeout sale (5 qts for $15) at Advance Auto Parts online!

There's no reason to be frustrated. You've got several good solutions available. A few of them are even convenient and affordable.

Thank you so much for the response. You really went "above and beyond" with your answer! Thanks' again and adios

HPL has Fancy Sauce 0W-30 SP. now if you don't want to spend this kind of cash, then i would go to walmart and pick up ESP 0W-30 and run that. happy oil hunting, old timer

https://www.advlubrication.com/coll...ssenger-car-engine-oil?variant=40523898880193

Thank You much!! Old Timer?...you got that right!!!
!

 

[lightrider]

I wouldn’t hesitate to use 5/30 It has almost the same pump-ability at cold temperatures as 0/30

Thank You much! That's what I thought. 0w30&5W30. Doesn't get below "0" and the car is garage kept!
I just NEED to take real good care of this car due to the fact I am getting REAL LONG IN THE TOOTH. So w/ any luck this will be the LAST car I ever purchase!!

 

[FreedomOne]

I'm running Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w40 in my 23 Santa Fe Calligraphy. No issues, smooth and quiet. Short OCI used oil analysis in the used oil analysis section. Also an oil filter comparison/options post in the filter section.

 

[lightrider]

I'm running Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w40 in my 23 Santa Fe Calligraphy. No issues, smooth and quiet. Short OCI used oil analysis in the used oil analysis section. Also an oil filter comparison/options post in the filter

I'm running Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w40 in my 23 Santa Fe Calligraphy. No issues, smooth and quiet. Short OCI used oil analysis in the used oil analysis section. Also an oil filter comparison/options post in the filter section.

Thank You sir!

 

[Carlostrece]

Thank You much! That's what I thought. 0w30&5W30. Doesn't get below "0" and the car is garage kept!
I just NEED to take real good care of this car due to the fact I am getting REAL LONG IN THE TOOTH. So w/ any luck this will be the LAST car I ever purchase!!

Keeping your car in a garage helps the car and oil last longer. A garage is helpful at cold start because the car is not as cold (as outdoors). I think if the garage is at least 50F it's good. 65-68F is ideal.

My climate is wet 5-7 months a year, and cool in winter. Sometimes cold in winter. High humidity year round.

When I used to parked my car outdoors I had constant brake problems from rusty rotors, battery didn't last as long, and oil became wet and dirty within a year (or less). I was doing short hop city driving weekdays and a highway drive 1 or 2 times a month.

Now I have a garage and drive less. Still mostly short hop city driving and a highway drive once a month. A tank of gas now lasts 4.5 months.

My garage is ¾ underground and is passively heated by the earth, and by whatever heat leaks into it from my house floor. My garage never gets colder than 55F, never hotter than 75F. It's usually around 65-70F.

My brake rotors last a lot longer now (and work better) because they don't rust. No more electrical problems because the air is dry enough. Battery lasts years longer (with trickle charger and no real cold starts). Motor oil now lasts 3-5 years because it's not driven much and never gets a cold start colder than 60F, usually 65-70F.

Point being... Keeping your car in a garage is extremely helpful, especially if the garage doesn't get colder than 40-50F. Ideally 60-68F. For some garages that might require an active heat source. Whether the cost of electricity to heat your garage is worth it is your choice. If it needs active heating, it would cost less to keep the garage in the 40s or 50s than to keep it warmer. Most people in my area keep their garages in the mid to high 50s in winter. My garage is usually low to mid 60s in winter.

The car battery will last longest if stored anywhere from 50-68F. Easiest on starter is 50+, ideally 65+. Warmer the better for starter. Easiest on oil is 55-75F, IMO. Windshield wipers and paint last many years longer in a garage. Brake rotors and electrical wiring connections don't care about temp, but do benefit from being dry and lower humidity. Heating a garage lowers the humidity somewhat.

In my case, I don't need to use any electricity to heat my garage because it's passively heated for free. I'm lucky.

 

[lightrider]

Keeping your car in a garage helps the car and oil last longer. A garage is helpful at cold start because the car is not as cold (as outdoors). I think if the garage is at least 50F it's good. 65-68F is ideal.

My climate is wet 5-7 months a year, and cool in winter. Sometimes cold in winter. High humidity year round.

When I used to parked my car outdoors I had constant brake problems from rusty rotors, battery didn't last as long, and oil became wet and dirty within a year (or less). I was doing short hop city driving weekdays and a highway drive 1 or 2 times a month.

Now I have a garage and drive less. Still mostly short hop city driving and a highway drive once a month. A tank of gas now lasts 4.5 months.

My garage is ¾ underground and is passively heated by the earth, and by whatever heat leaks into it from my house floor. My garage never gets colder than 55F, never hotter than 75F. It's usually around 65-70F.

My brake rotors last a lot longer now (and work better) because they don't rust. No more electrical problems because the air is dry enough. Battery lasts years longer (with trickle charger and no real cold starts). Motor oil now lasts 3-5 years because it's not driven much and never gets a cold start colder than 60F, usually 65- 70F.

Point being... Keeping your car in a garage is extremely helpful, especially if the garage doesn't get colder than 40-50F. Ideally 60-68F. For some garages that might require an active heat source. Whether the cost of electricity to heat your garage is worth it is your choice. If it needs active heating, it would cost a lot less to keep the garage in the 40s or 50s than to keep it warmer.

The car battery will last longest if stored anywhere from 50-68F. Easiest on starter is 50+, ideally 65+. Warmer the better for starter. Easiest on oil is 55-75F, IMO. Windshield wipers and paint last many years longer. Brake rotors and electrical wiring connections don't care about temp, but do benefit from being dry and in less humidity. Heating a garage tends to somewhat dry the air.

In my case, I don't need to use any electricity to heat my garage because it's passively heated for free. I'm lucky.

Same here. Short trips store & back etc. And every month I do an "Italian Tune up" LOL