5w30 full synthetic vs 10w30 full synthetic

It's a buick 3800 in a warm climate, run 5W30, run 10W30, run straight 30, run 0w40, run anything you want in it, as long as you change the oil in it it'll run forever on anything, the only thing that'll cause it to not lubricate properly is when the EGR melts the intake gasket and dumps coolant into the intake.
 
I've seen many of your claims of higher kv100 oils affecting power production, but have yet to experience anything of the sort in my time on both the street and the track. Until I see some quantifiable data stating the otherwise, aside from butt dyno figures, we'll have to respectfully agree to disagree.
Not power, but the area under the lower 1/3 of the torque curve in typical passenger car operation.

As an experienced engine builder**, my "Butt Dyno" and ears told me decades ago that GM was using fast bleed down roller tappets to help in bottom end torque production, improve F.E. and lower HC/CO emissions.

I like to move one grade up if I anticipate running hard in the top 1/3 of the torque curve.
That's where maximum horsepower is produced - and you know that already.

I have noticed more top end power in Asian 4 bangers with vvti with thicker oils.

- Ken
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** Pro tip of the day: Tired or frustrated with leaky rope seals on you Buick 340/350 series? You can substitute a FORD BB 385 series (460) polymer rear main seal in this application. Me? I still prefer the rope - no FORD parts allowed in my Buick builds! - Ken
 
I thought you were going to run Mobil Delvac 15w-40 as you had a previous thread on that?
I am stocking up 15W40, 5W30, 10W30 and now I recently added synthetic 5W40 which was on sale for $14
 
You're probably better off with the "lower grade" 5W-30 overall if you are running such short intervals, but it's a 3800 so it will run on canola oil. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish by stocking up but that engine will run on anything, the 5W-40 is fine if you're just getting the best deal. But you could buy two Pennzoil Platinum or PUP 5W-30s virtually for free after rebate...
 
You're probably better off with the "lower grade" 5W-30 overall if you are running such short intervals, but it's a 3800 so it will run on canola oil. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish by stocking up but that engine will run on anything, the 5W-40 is fine if you're just getting the best deal. But you could buy two Pennzoil Platinum or PUP 5W-30s virtually for free after rebate...
After joining BITOG, I just can't resist oil and oil filter deals.
 
After joining BITOG, I just can't resist oil and oil filter deals.

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5w30 will not hurt it but not really needed unless there is another reason yet mentioned. The motor isn't exactly picky, it will run on just about anything you put in it but that doesn't mean it should be done. I know while in North Dakota for a few years I was running 5w20 with no problem due to the -35f/-45f winters early in the morning.

10w30 would have run, but it would have been very thick at those temps, depending on the mileage there may be no harm in 5w30 but it will offer less lubrication while the motor is cold.

It was said here awhile back, still remains true, the motor isn't picky, it could run on malt liquor.
 
10w30 would have run, but it would have been very thick at those temps, depending on the mileage there may be no harm in 5w30 but it will offer less lubrication while the motor is cold.
No, it won’t. As usual on here it seems there’s nothing quite so misunderstood as the winter rating of an oil. What it means and more importantly what it does not mean.
 
My old Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme w the 3.1l ran for all its life on 5w30, i tried 10w30 in it after using 10w30 in my old C1500 5.7l one day and noticed the morning cold start was way quiter in the c1500. I put it in the Oldsmobile and had the same results. I was using Quaker State high mileage blend in the 5w30 and 10w30. The C1500 has moved on to 10w40 QSHM w a bottle of Schaeffer Moly EP in it but still 10w30 in the Olds.
 
It's a buick 3800 in a warm climate, run 5W30, run 10W30, run straight 30, run 0w40, run anything you want in it, as long as you change the oil in it it'll run forever on anything, the only thing that'll cause it to not lubricate properly is when the EGR melts the intake gasket and dumps coolant into the intake.
Best answer!
 
45f winters early in the morning.

No, it won’t. As usual on here it seems there’s nothing quite so misunderstood as the winter rating of an oil. What it means and more importantly what it does not mean.
Really, because here I was under the assumption the lower weight oil actually flows better in sub zero temps, guess that was wrong .....
 
I have said this for many years now, I feel like 10w30 is an obsolete viscosity, especially with synthetic oils, as the 5w30 can do everything the 10w30 can do, with the added benefit of flowing better in colder weather. It's not like the old days when 5w30s would thin out a lot more than 10w30s, so there was a benefit to running 10w30.
 
Really, because here I was under the assumption the lower weight oil actually flows better in sub zero temps, guess that was wrong .....
Well for one thing it's not a lower "weight" oil. But what temperature are you referring to, the 40F stated by the OP? If you're referring to -35F/-45F then you are well below the cranking and pumpability limit of a 10W rated oil.
 
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