Does that have graphite in it?
5w30 didn’t save me from the lifter tick
- Thread starter KrisZ
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Yeah, I misquoted in that thread before you guys caused it to get shut it down with your comments. It’s actual a graphite-like ceramic additive properties. This was explained by someone else but it was clearly ignored. Like you will be right now. I misspoke yes, but not to mislead it was an error on my part. Sorry, I don’t have time for stupid conversations and deal with ignorance. Good luck
.Exactly. I mean, if you’re going to ceaselessly promote something you really should know what you’re talking about.
And it wasn’t misquoting anything. It was misunderstanding a technical point. And if you look at why that thread was shut down (it’s still there) the reason wasn’t our comments.
Always heard good things about the 3.6 my brother in law has that engine in his 2013 dodge avenger. What I know of he doesn’t have any valve-train noise it’s definitely a lively V6 though plenty of power.
I had a 2016. When the lifter tick first started, I was able to alleviate it for a while with Seafoam. Not sure how long it was before it started in again. I would suggest trying Seafoam. If it works, trade off/sell the vehicle. I had about 185k miles on my Dodge. I traded it in back in July for a 2016 Honda Odyssey.
I’ve driven Chrysler/Dodge vans for over 20 years. I’ve gotten used to the 1 quart of oil per thousand miles on the 3.8. As a matter of fact, it was that particular issue in my brand new 2005 Dodge GC that led me to this forum. I purchased my 2016 Dodge GC in February 2017 with about 28k miles. I had high hopes for the 3.6 Pentastar. I got 6 years/150k miles out of it. Perhaps my expectations were too high. The fact that FCA continues to use this same engine without correcting the rocker arm bearing issues is what drove me to choose a Honda Odyssey. Any manufacturer can have issues. No problem with that. Continuing to produce an engine with known problems gives me pause for concern. People do vote with their dollars. Not fussing Chrysler, but decided that my dollars would be better spent elsewhere.
I gather you are not aware of the Honda’s VCM issues?
I agree that the rocker arm issue should’ve been fixed, but given the millions of these things being on the roads, it’s not as bad as the internet makes it out to be.
Meant to say “not dissing Chrysler”.
As a side note, I owned a 2009 Chrysler T&C after the 2005. I purchased the 2009 used. The oil consumption on it was worse than with the 2005. At 500 miles, the 2009 was down a half quart of oil like clockwork. At 1000 miles, it was down a full quart. I did not see it as a problem but just a quirk with that particular engine that had to be managed. I say that to point out that I had decent luck/ affinity for Chrysler in spite of “issues “.
As a side note, I owned a 2009 Chrysler T&C after the 2005. I purchased the 2009 used. The oil consumption on it was worse than with the 2005. At 500 miles, the 2009 was down a half quart of oil like clockwork. At 1000 miles, it was down a full quart. I did not see it as a problem but just a quirk with that particular engine that had to be managed. I say that to point out that I had decent luck/ affinity for Chrysler in spite of “issues “.
I became aware of Honda’s VCM issue right after I purchased the vehicle. I ordered the S-VCM disabler to disable the VCM. I still get great fuel economy in spite of disabling the VCM.
It’s not that bad of an issue….unless you are the one having the issue. Decided that I didn’t want to go down that road again.
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the usual culprit is varnish or sludge. Seafoam and MMO are pretty good, but a proper engine flush will also help clean the piston oil rings. More effective and thorough.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
No, the usual culprit is bad metallurgy, which no wizard in a can is going to remedy.
The bearing in the roller packs it in, resulting in the roller dropping down:
This results in the body of the roller contacting the lobe, and eating into it:
Caps grabbed from this video:
You'll note this engine is nice and clean inside, no sludge or varnish, and a flush/MMO/Seafoam/Whale Sperm/PFM aren't going to magically rebuild that lobe and rocker.
I have run a 0w20 in my Caravan in temps over 100 degrees and lower than 30 degrees. Manual states 20 grade so that is what I run as most have found out viscosity won't fix or prevent failures of design.
One thing I noticed is that the usage type and pattern seems to make a big difference.
My minivan is short tripped a lot with some family trips on the weekends etc. the usual stuff.
However I noticed metal shavings in the oil filter and posted about it last October in the mechanical section. At that time there was no ticking sound at all. Just some during cold starts.
Well on that October OC, I also drove to Canada to visit family for Christmas. That was about 3500 mile round trip.
When I came back from Canada the oil had around 5k or 6k miles and when I changed it I noticed almost no metal shavings in the oil filter.
The difference was huge.
Then the next OCI, which was back to normal, short trip driving routine, the metal shavings came back as before.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-think-my-lifters-or-rockers-are-going.361387/
My minivan is short tripped a lot with some family trips on the weekends etc. the usual stuff.
However I noticed metal shavings in the oil filter and posted about it last October in the mechanical section. At that time there was no ticking sound at all. Just some during cold starts.
Well on that October OC, I also drove to Canada to visit family for Christmas. That was about 3500 mile round trip.
When I came back from Canada the oil had around 5k or 6k miles and when I changed it I noticed almost no metal shavings in the oil filter.
The difference was huge.
Then the next OCI, which was back to normal, short trip driving routine, the metal shavings came back as before.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-think-my-lifters-or-rockers-are-going.361387/
I am not aware of any widespread issues with the 2AR - do you have a source? Besides, this is way off-topic.
No amount of snake oil is going to fix this issue.
In all fairness, the Big 3 do have a lot more volume than most of the Asian Import brands. By default, when you have more units in circulation (and by default, that means the units will be used in a wider range of applications), you will hear more "issues."
However....it has been fairly well documented that FCA/Stellantis really struggles with supplier relationships compared to the competition and one cannot help but wonder if there is an obvious correlation between supplier struggles and ongoing quality issues:
Auto supplier and OEM relationships - 6 automakers studied
https://www.plantemoran.com/explore-our-thinking/insight/2022/06/auto-supplier-and-oem-relationships-insights-from-the-2022-wri-study 2022: 2023: https://www.plantemoran.com/explore-our-thinking/insight/2023/06/auto-supplier-and-oem-relationships-insights-from-the-2023-wri-study I think...
bobistheoilguy.com
Let's apply a bit more critical thinking here, eh? Brands can have stellar sales for a multitude of reasons. The last few years have been a very unusual market for many industries. Availability suddenly became king. Price is always a factor in consumer commodities. Interior design and perceived quality are becoming a hot(ter) topic than before and Stellantis tends to deliver in this area.
So what is the best preemptive remedy for lifter tick? Is there something that can be done from new that will allow for a couple hundred thousand miles of lifter/rocker/camshaft life without wear failures? Should you use another viscosity/grade rather than the most common 5W20 MS-6395? As I type this another few hundred of these engines are being sold. Any opinions? My current Van is at 80K miles. I change oil at 5-7k miles with whatever name brand that meets spec and is available. 5W20, sometimes 5W30.
Doubtful but I'm not familiar with this particular issue and oil quality. Oils are at most band-aids for engine problems. They can only do so much. In cases where the engine has a manufacturing defect, it's unlikely any oil will help.
Not Redline 5w30 lol
The failures usually revolve around the rollers failing and allowing the camshaft to contact the rocker. They usually occur outside of warranty so 60k+ miles. So on the percentage of rollers that do fail, if someone could come up with a method/lubricant to keep the wear down at the roller support, we have a winner. Snake oil? Viscosity, Base oil types? I know that engines that have high spring tension on the valve train use higher viscosities in racing to combat some of the same type of wear patterns. Some very smart people on this board. Even with parts that are substandard from manufacture, they are usually living long enough to get the dealer off. the hook warranty wise. There should be a method out there to allow these substandard parts to have a longer life than is usual with manufacturer spec oil don't you think. Arco graphite? LOL. I know these VVT engines need to shift oil fairly rapidly for the valve timing so there are limits to weight/viscosity. Any real tribologist's have an opinion?
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