5W20 vs. 0W20 and some other questions...

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Originally Posted By: roushstage2

Looks like I'll be going with Amsoil SSO 0W30 and the EAO11 filter.


That sounds like a very reasonable plan. Your expensive engine deserves the deluxe treatment.
 
Wise choice m8.
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Originally Posted By: Iain
Originally Posted By: wgtoys
Originally Posted By: Fordiesel69
The EA011 is a great filter, however it gets far more efficient as it is used (like all oil filters) but this one is even more efficient. When brand new, I would question its overall efficientcy over a standard filter.


On what basis do you make that rather extraordinary claim?

I would like to know that, as well.


Originally Posted By: lazaro
Originally Posted By: Fordiesel69
If you drive hard, error on a 0w-30 or 5w-30. And with the short intervals use a motorcraft filter. The EA011 is a great filter, however it gets far more efficient as it is used (like all oil filters) but this one is even more efficient. When brand new, I would question its overall efficientcy over a standard filter. I think in 1k to 3k intervals a standard filter would be more suitable. In my opinion the EAo11 shines after 5k intervals.

so if I understand correctly you say el cheapo oil filter with a micron rating of 20/40 micron will be more efficient than A Amsoil EAO filter at 16 micron? under 5000 miles?
I have 5 EAO filters in use right now they all stay on the vehicles till 25,000 miles are up, however many years that takes. What is more efficient than that?


I had the same question, still waiting for an reply
 
In defense of Fordiesel69, I think what he's saying is the EaO filters seem to be even *more* efficient as miles rack up. Terry D confirmed this in a thread last year where he was extremely impressed with this filter after a few thousand miles. That was one of reasons I decided to run the EaO filter for two oci's when I had my crv.

It would be a waste to run these filters for 5k miles is the point... I think
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I switched to Amsoil 5w20 for one oil change before I switched to the 0w20. I did notice that the 5w20 got fairly dirty - but that was after 93,000 miles on dino oil.

Now that I've switched to the 0w20, the oil is staying quite clean. I also went with the Amsoil filter and plan on running the oil for a year. The engine uses no significant amounts oil, so I hope to not add to the oil over the year and possibly have an analysis done as this is a bit of an experiment.

Engine in question is a 1.7 SOHC VTEC
 
Yeah, I think I'm going to get a UOA done even though everything has been in there for so long (neither the oil or filter is "rated" to be there longer than 6 months as far as I know). Especially now being out of warranty, it would be nice to know what exactly is going on in there.

I'll admit I don't check the oil very often (only in this car) as there are no leaks and I almost always get it changed every 6 months at something like 1,000 miles. Seldom do I make it to 3,000, in which I get it changed then. When I have checked it though, the oil was never darker than a clear honey color and was at the same mark on the dipstick. I understand that the color does not mean anything really, just looks pretty dang clean is all. I will definitely kick myself to try and remember to check it every drive as those are generally spaced out.

Down the road, I'd like to change my rear differential fluid to Amsoil from RP. I have some other RP fluids I bought for this car that I will probably sell to my friends who us RP or just use it in my 2003 Dodge Neon (the DD/Beater).
 
Originally Posted By: Riptide
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=518

More fuel for the "debate".


Quote:
To determine if SAE 5W-20 oils provide the same level of protection as SAE 5W-30 oils, Dagenham Motors in England, one of the largest Ford dealers in Europe, was consulted. SAE 5W-30 is required for warranty purposes in England, and SAE 5W-20 is not even available. If SAE 5W-20 were better for both fuel economy and wear, why would Ford not recommend it for its same engines in Europe?


I would like to know the oil change interval in europe for ford.
Im sure that is a factor in the viscosity requierment
 
I wonder if a 5w-30 really protects much better than a 5w-20 considering the viscosity shear . I would say a straight 30 is tougher than a straight 20 . A straight 30 is tougher than a 10w-30.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
I wonder if a 5w-30 really protects much better than a 5w-20 considering the viscosity shear . I would say a straight 30 is tougher than a straight 20 . A straight 30 is tougher than a 10w-30.


You're right about that. Both a SAE 20 and SAE 30 are 'tougher' than even a 10w40 imo.


When talking about multigrades achieved by VIIs and not HVI basestocks, viscosity is not a very meaningful metric at all. VII's make poor lubricants, they shear both temporarily and permanently and they make a mess at high temperatures. Here's an illustration, imagine a styrofoam and water emulsion tests as a SAE 80 grade oil, and yo9u think "oh SAE80, thats heavy duty, nothing will break that film" but as soon as you apply a certain amount of pressure, the styofoam collapses completely and you're just riding on the water, this is exactly the same manner in which VII's dissapoint at high loaded, high shear surfaces. (Not to mention, like VIIs, the burning styrofoam would make a nasty mess.)

A SAE 5w20 oil and a SAE 20 oil are dramatically different from each other, regardless of if they share a common viscosity@100C. "If VIIs are so poor at lubrication, then why arent all passenger cars dying early deaths?" It's simple, passenger car engines can survive on 5wt oil. 5w30, 5w20 are nothing short of 5W oils, beefed up with "space hogging" VIIs. This is why there is virtually no difference in UOAs between 5w20, 5w30 and even 0w10 oils, and more of a difference between additive packs and operating conditions. The fact remains that without the VIIs, theyre all just about SAE 5W or less. Now, multigrades formulated with inherently HVI basestocks (ie. some Gr3, Gr4,5) can attenuate or be exempt from this problem, as there is more/all basestock and less/no VII. This is also why I favour small viscosity spreads in my multigrades and prefer straight to multigrade when possible. Multigrades with wide spreads should come with a warning: "jack of all trades, master of none". SAE20 oil has approx the film strength of SAE20W50 under shear, just without the VIIs. When high performance engines that run 20W50 load up their bearings and cams, and the VII's collapse, it's just a SAE20 film separating parts. Ever hear someone refer to 20w50 as a weak oil? Certainly not. But strip the VIIs from it, and you're left with a straight 20. This is why knowing the basestocks, in my opinion, is very important. Even when the oil is cold, a petroleum SAE20 will protect surfaces much better than a Gr3 5w30. Why you ask? Because the film of the SAE20 can't shear. With advances in technology, that isnt always the case, though. Now, with basestocks becoming more pure and with VIs that can be tailored, less VII's need to be used in the finished product compared to the past. However, if a 5w20 and 5w30 are being blended from the same basestock, you can be sure which one has more space filling VII's, and less basestock but only if you have some insight on the blender. They could theoretically use SAE 10 basestock, allow it to meet 5W multigrade spec with PPDs and extend the VII to SAE30 @100C with less VII's needed than if you began with a SAE 5W basestock. My point is that all oils are not created equal, even if they meet and share their target SAE grade and API/ILSAC performance ratings. One formula will always have protective advantages over the other formula, and it's that 'edge' (no pun) that I personally look for, since operating conditions are never predictable. However, it's not impossible or a lost cause to figure it out, you just need to follow the clues like basestock group, density, reliance on additives, energy conservation approval etc.
 
Originally Posted By: Riptide
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=518

More fuel for the "debate".


Interesting article, they ref GF-3 oils?
 
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Originally Posted By: roushstage2
That's a good deal of information there Max! Useful for me anyways as I have been wondering about something else too and that answered it.


you bet buddy! It's not gospel but I'm happy it's at least out there for others to consider. So what was it that you were wondering about?
 
I was wondering a bit about the multigrade vs. straight grade as you mentioned above for another vehicle. I ended up deciding to change the oil today, and went with an SAE30 instead of a 20W50 that I have been running. Oil pressure is better too.
 
Yeah, I've told the G/F to make sure she warms the truck up a bit (hers needs a new long block). "Yeah, I do." "No, more than the 15 seconds you are sitting in there before you take off like the wind." "OK, fine." lol. I'm not worried about it really except that she needs to warm it up first a bit.
 
Originally Posted By: roushstage2
I was wondering a bit about the multigrade vs. straight grade as you mentioned above for another vehicle. I ended up deciding to change the oil today, and went with an SAE30 instead of a 20W50 that I have been running. Oil pressure is better too.


A synthetic straight 30 is the best of both worlds. Cold flow of a 10w-30 and the advantages of a straight 30. I run it year round but our winters are mild.
 
I wish I could run synthetic in the truck, but I just don't think it would like it. I got Parts Master SAE HD30. Looking at the MSDS, it's re-labled Valvoline. It's a 1986 Ford F150 4x4 with the rarer 5.8L 351W H.O. engine. It has about 193,000 miles on it, and it has some small leaks. One of which just started and I think it's the valve cover gaskets.
 
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