In a modern double overhead cam engine where external temps rarely get below 20 degrees F. is there going to be much of a difference / time lag between 5W and 10W synthetic oil in getting the oil to vital engine parts for rapid protection ? For comparison , let's say the external temp is 20 degrees F. and the only difference in synthetic oils used is one is a 5W and the other a 10W. I will also add we are talking 20 degree F. temps a maximum of only a possibility of three months out of the year so as external temps rise then less of an issue between 5W and 10W at start up - or technically 5W always has the real world edge in start up protection over a 10W oil ... Your thoughts ?
5W vs. 10W Synthetic Oil : Start Up Wear ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
In a modern double overhead cam engine where external temps rarely get below 20 degrees F. is there going to be much of a difference / time lag between 5W and 10W synthetic oil in getting the oil to vital engine parts for rapid protection ? For comparison , let's say the external temp is 20 degrees F. and the only difference in synthetic oils used is one is a 5W and the other a 10W. I will also add we are talking 20 degree F. temps a maximum of only a possibility of three months out of the year so as external temps rise then less of an issue between 5W and 10W at start up - or technically 5W always has the real world edge in start up protection over a 10W oil ... Your thoughts ?
The oil pump should get both to where they belong at the same rate. At 20 degrees, the 5w-30 will turn over a little more easily, requiring less work from the starter and battery. I always use a 5w-xx in winter, as there's no real reason not to. Summer? Either 5w or 10w, makes no difference. 10w-30 usually has lower NOACK though.
In a modern double overhead cam engine where external temps rarely get below 20 degrees F. is there going to be much of a difference / time lag between 5W and 10W synthetic oil in getting the oil to vital engine parts for rapid protection ? For comparison , let's say the external temp is 20 degrees F. and the only difference in synthetic oils used is one is a 5W and the other a 10W. I will also add we are talking 20 degree F. temps a maximum of only a possibility of three months out of the year so as external temps rise then less of an issue between 5W and 10W at start up - or technically 5W always has the real world edge in start up protection over a 10W oil ... Your thoughts ?
The oil pump should get both to where they belong at the same rate. At 20 degrees, the 5w-30 will turn over a little more easily, requiring less work from the starter and battery. I always use a 5w-xx in winter, as there's no real reason not to. Summer? Either 5w or 10w, makes no difference. 10w-30 usually has lower NOACK though.
Last edited:
If it concerns you try a 0w oil.
Like castrol edge.
See my post on castrol edge and edge High Mileage oil.
It is the best with the most.
koenigsegg, "fastest production car company in the world" team of engineers discovered it was the best oil after looking into it.
Like castrol edge.
See my post on castrol edge and edge High Mileage oil.
It is the best with the most.
koenigsegg, "fastest production car company in the world" team of engineers discovered it was the best oil after looking into it.
Not enough to make any difference in engine wear, especially if it's a decent oil that's left the film it's supposed to on the parts. If it'll give you better peace of mind, let it run a few seconds longer than you usually would to get things warm and the oil limbered up.
However, in the future I really think it would only be a win-win to go back to a 5W - oil tech has come far enough that very few stock engines exceed a good oil's ability to adequately protect therefore using a 10w for "protection" is invalid. If you have to use 10w30 instead of 5w in your preferred brand to keep the engine in one piece, it's time to change oils.
However, in the future I really think it would only be a win-win to go back to a 5W - oil tech has come far enough that very few stock engines exceed a good oil's ability to adequately protect therefore using a 10w for "protection" is invalid. If you have to use 10w30 instead of 5w in your preferred brand to keep the engine in one piece, it's time to change oils.
Originally Posted By: Burt
Sorry for critiquing your question rather than answering it, but could I ask what benefit you see from using the 10W?
Every other thing being equal, lower VII content > more shear-stable > less contamination (in relation to ring sticking), no?
Sorry for critiquing your question rather than answering it, but could I ask what benefit you see from using the 10W?
Every other thing being equal, lower VII content > more shear-stable > less contamination (in relation to ring sticking), no?
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
In a modern double overhead cam engine where external temps rarely get below 20 degrees F. is there going to be much of a difference / time lag between 5W and 10W synthetic oil in getting the oil to vital engine parts for rapid protection ? For comparison , let's say the external temp is 20 degrees F. and the only difference in synthetic oils used is one is a 5W and the other a 10W. I will also add we are talking 20 degree F. temps a maximum of only a possibility of three months out of the year so as external temps rise then less of an issue between 5W and 10W at start up - or technically 5W always has the real world edge in start up protection over a 10W oil ... Your thoughts ?
Did it ever occur to you as-to why auto manufacturers switched to 5W in the 1980s - then began downsizing the grade even more to OW in the past 10 years or-so?
In a modern double overhead cam engine where external temps rarely get below 20 degrees F. is there going to be much of a difference / time lag between 5W and 10W synthetic oil in getting the oil to vital engine parts for rapid protection ? For comparison , let's say the external temp is 20 degrees F. and the only difference in synthetic oils used is one is a 5W and the other a 10W. I will also add we are talking 20 degree F. temps a maximum of only a possibility of three months out of the year so as external temps rise then less of an issue between 5W and 10W at start up - or technically 5W always has the real world edge in start up protection over a 10W oil ... Your thoughts ?
Did it ever occur to you as-to why auto manufacturers switched to 5W in the 1980s - then began downsizing the grade even more to OW in the past 10 years or-so?
10w-30 could work just fine in Georgia all year round. The 10w can give you more protection than the 5w depending on the oil and your specific conditions. At no lower than 20F on only a few days per year (average daily lows by month in Atlanta year round are >32 deg F). Negligible startup/warmup wear difference from a 5w to a 10w. They both flow and get to their destination at the same time in Georgia. The thicker oil might actually heat up faster. And it could provide more viscosity protection as the oil warms up without the AW package being fully active.
In Detroit's winter, the 10w is not that great a selection. If everyone had a climate no worse than Georgia, I don't think the mfg's would have made the push to 0W's as it's just not needed in warmer climates.
In Detroit's winter, the 10w is not that great a selection. If everyone had a climate no worse than Georgia, I don't think the mfg's would have made the push to 0W's as it's just not needed in warmer climates.
And many use 10w30 in places further north year round with no issues whatsoever. Even with average temps closer to 0F and some occasional dips into sub zero territory. And they get many, many trouble free miles from their engines. Many fleets use the same oil across multiple platforms, like a 10w30 HDEO that is both diesel and gas rated, in both their heavy truck diesels and gasoline engines and still rack up over 300,000 miles on their gas engines that spec'd a 5w30 or even a 20w. Amazing how many fleets can get far more miles out of engines, on average, than many private individuals the fret over details.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Is this related to the glut of clearance 10w30 at autozone?
Haha best answer right here!
Is this related to the glut of clearance 10w30 at autozone?
Haha best answer right here!
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
With folks following that 5w fill cap - I scored QSUD 10w30 for $2/quart ...
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
In a modern double overhead cam engine where external temps rarely get below 20 degrees F. is there going to be much of a difference / time lag between 5W and 10W synthetic oil in getting the oil to vital engine parts for rapid protection ? For comparison , let's say the external temp is 20 degrees F. and the only difference in synthetic oils used is one is a 5W and the other a 10W. I will also add we are talking 20 degree F. temps a maximum of only a possibility of three months out of the year so as external temps rise then less of an issue between 5W and 10W at start up - or technically 5W always has the real world edge in start up protection over a 10W oil ... Your thoughts ?
At 20 degrees Fahrenheit there will be no difference.
In a modern double overhead cam engine where external temps rarely get below 20 degrees F. is there going to be much of a difference / time lag between 5W and 10W synthetic oil in getting the oil to vital engine parts for rapid protection ? For comparison , let's say the external temp is 20 degrees F. and the only difference in synthetic oils used is one is a 5W and the other a 10W. I will also add we are talking 20 degree F. temps a maximum of only a possibility of three months out of the year so as external temps rise then less of an issue between 5W and 10W at start up - or technically 5W always has the real world edge in start up protection over a 10W oil ... Your thoughts ?
At 20 degrees Fahrenheit there will be no difference.
Originally Posted By: CT8
Why would you think at the temps you mentioned would there be a difference in start up wear.
Start-up wear is not related to pumped oil. It is related to the residual oil film left when the engine is shut off. Pumped oil is a replenishment strategy, not a primary strategy.
Residual oil film is the key to longevity. You want the most robust oil film possible.
Remember that many key components like piston skirts, rings, timing chains, gear drives, etc. - never see pumped oil. They all live on sling oil or drain-back oil w/o any pressure. This whole pumped oil thing is a giant red herring ...
Be concerned with viscosity related metrics and HTHS.
Start-up wear is related to the oil content of the oil. Minimize the VII's and get as close to straight oil as possible and you will minimize start-up wear. Straight 30 would be the best, but modern syn's that get their "spread" by the nature of the chemistry and not the addition of VII's are a really good second way to go.
Why would you think at the temps you mentioned would there be a difference in start up wear.
Start-up wear is not related to pumped oil. It is related to the residual oil film left when the engine is shut off. Pumped oil is a replenishment strategy, not a primary strategy.
Residual oil film is the key to longevity. You want the most robust oil film possible.
Remember that many key components like piston skirts, rings, timing chains, gear drives, etc. - never see pumped oil. They all live on sling oil or drain-back oil w/o any pressure. This whole pumped oil thing is a giant red herring ...
Be concerned with viscosity related metrics and HTHS.
Start-up wear is related to the oil content of the oil. Minimize the VII's and get as close to straight oil as possible and you will minimize start-up wear. Straight 30 would be the best, but modern syn's that get their "spread" by the nature of the chemistry and not the addition of VII's are a really good second way to go.
Last edited:
With 20 degrees the lowest temp you'd see, 10w30 would be a fine year round oil. I doubt you'd even notice any cranking difference at 20f between 5w and 10w, although you certainly will at zero in my experience.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Start-up wear is not related to pumped oil. It is related to the residual oil film left when the engine is shut off. Pumped oil is a replenishment strategy, not a primary strategy.
Residual oil film is the key to longevity. You want the most robust oil film possible.
Remember that many key components like piston skirts, rings, timing chains, gear drives, etc. - never see pumped oil. They all live on sling oil or drain-back oil w/o any pressure. This whole pumped oil thing is a giant red herring ...
Be concerned with viscosity related metrics and HTHS.
Start-up wear is related to the oil content of the oil. Minimize the VII's and get as close to straight oil as possible and you will minimize start-up wear. Straight 30 would be the best, but modern syn's that get their "spread" by the nature of the chemistry and not the addition of VII's are a really good second way to go.
^^This
Start-up wear is not related to pumped oil. It is related to the residual oil film left when the engine is shut off. Pumped oil is a replenishment strategy, not a primary strategy.
Residual oil film is the key to longevity. You want the most robust oil film possible.
Remember that many key components like piston skirts, rings, timing chains, gear drives, etc. - never see pumped oil. They all live on sling oil or drain-back oil w/o any pressure. This whole pumped oil thing is a giant red herring ...
Be concerned with viscosity related metrics and HTHS.
Start-up wear is related to the oil content of the oil. Minimize the VII's and get as close to straight oil as possible and you will minimize start-up wear. Straight 30 would be the best, but modern syn's that get their "spread" by the nature of the chemistry and not the addition of VII's are a really good second way to go.
^^This
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Start-up wear is not related to pumped oil. It is related to the residual oil film left when the engine is shut off. Pumped oil is a replenishment strategy, not a primary strategy.
Residual oil film is the key to longevity. You want the most robust oil film possible.
Remember that many key components like piston skirts, rings, timing chains, gear drives, etc. - never see pumped oil. They all live on sling oil or drain-back oil w/o any pressure. This whole pumped oil thing is a giant red herring ...
Be concerned with viscosity related metrics and HTHS.
Start-up wear is related to the oil content of the oil. Minimize the VII's and get as close to straight oil as possible and you will minimize start-up wear. Straight 30 would be the best, but modern syn's that get their "spread" by the nature of the chemistry and not the addition of VII's are a really good second way to go.
^^This x 2
Start-up wear is not related to pumped oil. It is related to the residual oil film left when the engine is shut off. Pumped oil is a replenishment strategy, not a primary strategy.
Residual oil film is the key to longevity. You want the most robust oil film possible.
Remember that many key components like piston skirts, rings, timing chains, gear drives, etc. - never see pumped oil. They all live on sling oil or drain-back oil w/o any pressure. This whole pumped oil thing is a giant red herring ...
Be concerned with viscosity related metrics and HTHS.
Start-up wear is related to the oil content of the oil. Minimize the VII's and get as close to straight oil as possible and you will minimize start-up wear. Straight 30 would be the best, but modern syn's that get their "spread" by the nature of the chemistry and not the addition of VII's are a really good second way to go.
^^This x 2
- Status
