5w-20 in a 5w-30 car???

CastroPenzoHavoMobil1 · Apr 30, 2005

From what I have read and researched about the 5w-20 oils, they seem pretty good... especially when it comes to cold weather start up. I'm considering running 5w-20 in my car during the coldest part of the the year (Dec-Feb in Pittsburgh, PA). BUT, my owners manual says run 5w30. The car is a 97 Mercury Villager with 142K miles.
Would you run 5w-20 even though it calls for 5w30? Why or why not? Thanks!

wwillson · Apr 30, 2005

I've been running 0w-20 and 5w-20 in my '97 Villager for quite a while now. Do it, the engine starts on a dime in the winter, is more responsive, doesn't use a drop of oil, gets better mileage, runs cooler, etc. Can you tell I'm a fan of the 20wts?

Wayne

Ugly3 · Apr 30, 2005

I think you will find little difference in startup between 5w20 and 5w30 oils, particularly if you are using synthetics. You do not have extremely cold weather in your area, 5w30 will serve you well. However, I doubt you will damamge your engine running 5w20 in the winter.

Your call.

JohnnyO · Apr 30, 2005

I didn't see the Villager on the list but if it's the same as a Ford Windstar you should be okay.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/020109.pdf

TooSlick · Apr 30, 2005

I'd run an SAE 0w30 synthetic if you want improved cold weather performance and fuel efficiency, along with longer service intervals....

TS

Gary Allan · Apr 30, 2005

I run MC 5w-20 in my daughter's 91 3.0 Taurus. No change in consumption that I can see. I can never get her to monitor fuel economy, so who knows? I've also run it on 15w40. It doesn't seem to care.

unDummy · May 2, 2005

The Villager(Nissan Quest) requires a 30wt.

If consumption isn't an issue, if engine noise doesn't increase, if a 20wt UOA looks comparable to a 30wt UOA in this engine, then I don't see why you couldn't.

Use a larger filter for a mild oil capacity increase and make sure the cooling system works.

Running the 20wt shouldn't be a problem in the winter. Not everyone wants to run a $6 per quart synthetic 0w30 when most 5w20's cost $2!

Winston · May 2, 2005

Would you get better cold weather starts from a 5W30 synthetic or 5w20 conventional?

Tones · May 2, 2005

If I remember right, that has a Nissan 6 cylinder engine (3.0?) in it and the Nissans like a heavier oil to keep the iron wear down. What you have been doing has worked. You have gotten 147k, I am assuming on 30 weights. Why would you want to change now? If it is strictly for the cold weather start-up, why wouldn't you just use a 0w30 synthetic?

AndyH · May 2, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Winston:
Would you get better cold weather starts from a 5W30 synthetic or 5w20 conventional?

I would say the synthetic.

MN Driver · May 2, 2005

Personally I wouldn't unless a 0w or 5w30-weight synthetic seemed like it wasn't getting where it needed to be when starting in the cold.

Even if it wasn't particularily good for the engine, it most likely wouldn't do significant damage with one short interval, so you could always do that and judge by a used oil analysis on how the wear compares to a different weight, if wear has improved with similar weather, interval, and conditions, then I would probably continue using the oil in those same conditions.

I wouldn't do this without used oil analysis though.

CastroPenzoHavoMobil1 · May 3, 2005

Thanks for all the advise on this. I am now considering using Mobil 1 5w30 for better cold weather start up in my 97 Villager. But, here's my concern: If I go M1 will I start consuming more oil (it consumes 1/2 quart over 3000 miles on dino) or will my seals start leaking. It seems like I hear leaking and consumption stories like this when others go to Synthetic after a long life using dino only.
Thanks again!

JohnnyO · May 3, 2005

If it has been well-maintained with regular oil changes (probably has or you wouldn't be here, right?) it shouldn't burn any more M1 than conventional oil. Same with seal leaks although a double Auto-RX treatment beforehand wouldn't hurt.
Your Villager is probably one of the vehicles Ford back-recommended 5w-20 for (my earlier post) but for others it is worth noting that there are some engines that Ford specifically does not recommend use 5w-20.
Syn can cause leaks simply by virtue of cleaning better. It gets some dirt out around the seals and thus they leak for a while...but again, if it's been well-kept it shouldn't be a problem. Then too, a 140,000 mile seal is a 140,000 mile seal regardless.

dustyjoe1 · May 3, 2005

quote:

I'm considering running 5w-20 in my car during the coldest part of the the year (Dec-Feb in Pittsburgh, PA). BUT, my owners manual says run 5w30

Not sure its the best way to go, but I think it would be ok. I ran Pennzoil 20w20 in a 71 leMans in the some of the early 80's winters In New Ken PA just north of you. That car called for 10w40. BTW that pontiac is still running

Tones · May 3, 2005

A synthetic blend like the synthetic Valvoline Maxlife might get you what you want and give you peace of mind about the change. It has seal conditioners for high mileage cars and should not burn any more oil than dino because the 30 weight is on the thick side. It has a pretty large following on this board. Do a search and you will find lots of info.

Found a link.

[ May 03, 2005, 07:32 PM: Message edited by: Tones ]

Alan · May 3, 2005

Essentially this has been done millions of times

.
The 5W30 put in turns in to a heavy 20W oil.
Seen it happen over and over again on the UOA board.

Engines that recommend 5W30 don't seem to be effected by this shearing action overall.They still keep chuggin

.

5w-20 in a 5w-30 car???

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