500,000 mile 2003 Sequoia
- Thread starter atikovi
- Start date
HAHA. If I posted it here for $3K, I'd get comments like, "I wouldn't give $500 for that thing, going to need an engine soon." Same as when I listed my 300,000 mile 2006 Jetta TDI for $3,000.
European cars depreciate massively due to them being known as money pits at higher mileage. Either way mileage should not be a sole determining factor in modern cars of lifespan used/remaining. Grandma's 20 year old church-mobile that only gets driven 2 miles at a time in freezing cold weather with 40k is probably more worn out than my Accent with 142k miles that runs for 8-10hrs and 200-300 miles a day at operating temperature.
A car with 500,000 miles was probably driven a lot, as long as the owner can prove it was also serviced a lot and on time I would have no worries buying it.
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I'm surprised it was that low assuming run/drive and no blatant major issues other than high mileage.
Probably be back next week.
All things considered, that's pretty darn good. My 2000 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7 managed 17 MPG on the last cabin trip, using the AC sparingly and sitting right around 75-80. Lately I've been averaging about 15.9 on regular fuel with a less than light foot. 70/30 city/hwy.
That being said, it's not apples to apples. The 2005+ 2UX has VVT, DOHC, and carries 1k+ extra pounds. Not to mention the extra 50+ horsepower. It may not be a Prius, but for what it is 15 MPG isn't awful.
The gas mileage on these is probably more in line with other trucks once you are going 80 mph since the engine is actually having to work. Kinda like how the old big blocks like the 460 got 10 mpg whether you were towing or not
if you are doing 80+ mph in a full sized brick like that the engine is working and you arnt gunna get much more than 15 mpg
my ecoboost is definitely more sensitive. It could get 20 mpg doing 65 mph unloaded or 10 with a trailer
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- Dec 30, 2006
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BUT........what kind've oil got it to 500K?? You should've snuck out a sample and done a uoa for us
We have a 2003 on our lot that we're selling for an older gentleman that has just over 212,000 miles. That thing is tight and drives like a new rig. He kept it very well maintained, so whomever buys it will be getting a good ride. He wants $6500 and it has generated a lot of interest from people in the two weeks that we've had it. Of course anything seems to be generating interest these days, it's like people have gone into a car buying frenzy even though it's not really a buyers market right now.
Well I finally got it today. They ran it through the lane every week since May. Hope those who think it's a $3K truck know what they're talking about 'cause I paid more than half that. Which is twice what I wanted to pay. Right off it needs a windshield, rustwork, lamps, upholstery work, so I may be in it close to that when done.
Does anyone sell a generic version of these emblems that Mercedes and Volvo has which rewards each 100,000 mile milestone?
Keep us posted on the progress. Surprisingly they handle, ride and maneuver quite well.
Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2025
A question is, the engine original?
Autocheck says one owner. Maybe I'll try to contact.
Before buying 2005 4Runner 296k, V6, I looked up the maintenance records at Toyota and Carfax, seeing regular oil changes at 5k and the previous owner location was New Mexico gave me enough back ground information I was able to test drive it and check the codes, especially for misfire, which it had a history code but nothing current so I bought it. Have been very happy to use it as the summer beater, it runs good and only needed the service work updated. I think this was a great era for Toyota's and if it runs good and ain't all rusted out, most repairs only need to be done once.
Now the other thing I can identify with is cost, I'm thinking plan to spend about $3500 on any used vehicle that is a worthy risk, and if you can that any cheaper, you really won big. This summer's examples for me, 2004 Sienna 3.3 V6, 188k, $1500 + $1000 tune-up, coolant plate, knock sensors, timing belt, and it's going to need at least 2 more tires. 2012 Sedona 3.5 V6, 209k, $2500 + tune-up $500 parts + $400 tires. I'm really happy with both the vans and find the way these 2 are set-up very easy to work on. Also knowing the previous owners did the regular services helps to get over the fear of a high mileage vehicle, though on the Sienna I didn't have that to go on, but I bought it cheap enough to take the gamble.
Now I must drag myself out of here and get out to the mailbox to see if the VVT solenoid shown up for the Sedona, still working out the issue with codes P0016, P0017 crank - cam correlation, motor sounds great and I'd sure like an easy parts-change fix, I am learning some here, and I also going to put a new thermostat in it with the Advance Auto has Zerex on sale for $11.99, bought the blue in the minimum 2 jugs, figure the sale is on till the end of the month and I'll stock up as I gain confidence in the vehicle's longevity.
Now the other thing I can identify with is cost, I'm thinking plan to spend about $3500 on any used vehicle that is a worthy risk, and if you can that any cheaper, you really won big. This summer's examples for me, 2004 Sienna 3.3 V6, 188k, $1500 + $1000 tune-up, coolant plate, knock sensors, timing belt, and it's going to need at least 2 more tires. 2012 Sedona 3.5 V6, 209k, $2500 + tune-up $500 parts + $400 tires. I'm really happy with both the vans and find the way these 2 are set-up very easy to work on. Also knowing the previous owners did the regular services helps to get over the fear of a high mileage vehicle, though on the Sienna I didn't have that to go on, but I bought it cheap enough to take the gamble.
Now I must drag myself out of here and get out to the mailbox to see if the VVT solenoid shown up for the Sedona, still working out the issue with codes P0016, P0017 crank - cam correlation, motor sounds great and I'd sure like an easy parts-change fix, I am learning some here, and I also going to put a new thermostat in it with the Advance Auto has Zerex on sale for $11.99, bought the blue in the minimum 2 jugs, figure the sale is on till the end of the month and I'll stock up as I gain confidence in the vehicle's longevity.
Most folks detest the buyer contacting the seller of an auctioned car. That’s partly why they are auctioning them.
If they have a problem with that, either demand the dealer who they traded it in to flip the title before reselling (and reduce the price accordingly), or sell the thing for scrap instead. I don't understand some people. Bought a Civic Si a few years ago and contacted the last owner from the title and then a Google search. He seemed pleasant enough and let me know about some maintenance it had, and a few days later I get a call from the dealer that took it in trade saying the guy went ballistic on him for giving out his contact information and to please not contact him again.
That's ridiculous to even suggest and it's not the seller's problem. It's also probably why most dealers empty glove boxes, consoles, etc of everything, including owner's manuals in many cases just in case there's any identifying info in there.
That said, I don't answer unknown calls. If it's important, leave a voicemail. Doesn't mean I'll respond either.
