5.7 Vortec Oil pressure concern.

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I have a 96C Chevy stepside Cheyenne show truck. Obviously 5.7 engine, via title.

I use 10w30 PUP, or PPHM, basically swap between each change, every 5k miles, or 6months.

At cold idle/start, with it being 80-100 degrees outside, I get about 75psi. Once warmed up about 55-60 at 55-75mph. And idle at around 40. Always been that way since I bought it restored 8yrs ago.

Sometimes I use a 0w40 or 5w30, if it's abnormally cold winters, but see no difference, maybe a few psi in either direction.

My concern is I notice a lot of other 96-98s that I have in the family or know of read about 45cold idle 25hot idle, 40-50 Highway.

What has me even more puzzled my own 99 GMC slt Suburban same engine, I had redone is in the same 25 idle 40 Highway range. Which sees the same oil.

BUT! On the 96, I also notice a oil film in the air intake boot. And oil inside the air tube that leads up to it, not the one with the pcv valve, the opposite one on the passenger side. And my Valve covers always seem to keep a oily mist on them that collects dust. And this is not the case on the 99 dry as a bone.

Only mods on the 96 are, a coolant filter kit, a power steering filter kit, and a power aid intake. With a DRY filter no oil. With a built up 4L60e trans, and true duel exhaust, Magna flow cats.

Things that have been ruled out are, all gaskets, and pcv valve, all oem or better, example being the updated felpro steel lower intake gasket set.

So I'm pulling my hair trying to figure this out. Any ideas you have are welcome. Only thing I can figure is maybe a high volume oil pump was used, as this is common on SBC rebuilds, but I don't see how a at most 15-20% increase in pressure from the pump would cause this. But maybe I'm wrong.

Thank you in advance for any ideas you might have, all ideas are welcome.
 
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have you used a trustworthy mechanical oil pressure gauge to check the actual pressure? the dash gauge might be junk.
 
Originally Posted by dogememe
have you used a trustworthy mechanical oil pressure gauge to check the actual pressure? the dash gauge might be junk.


+1

How are you reading pressure???
 
I don't understand the problem. My boat has a 350 chevy and the oil pressure is about what your describe. 75-80 on cold start 40-50 hot crusing and about 20-25 idling at 700rpm hot
 
It's a real gauge too cause you can crank the engine without starting and watch the pressure come up
 
Forgot to add, it idles once warm at 900ish. The 99 idles at 550.

Originally Posted by motor_oil_madman
I don't understand the problem. My boat has a 350 chevy and the oil pressure is about what your describe. 75-80 on cold start 40-50 hot crusing and about 20-25 idling at 700rpm hot



That makes me feel abit better, although I don't understand why it's like the way it is, I see both online some 20-40 some 40-60 with no reasoning behind it. And I guess it's not so much the pressure that bothers me it's the oil in the intake. Between 4000-5k miles it might lose as much as 1/4th a quart at most, if that.
 
Someone may have installed a High Pressure/High Volume oil pump, Gen I & II Small Block Chevies are known to over oil the upper end/valvetrain with a standard volume pump, A HP/HV pump will aggravate this issue!!

Another side effect is abnormal distributor/oil pump drive gear wear......Many Gen II LT1/LT4 engines were wiped out because they will still run when the gear strips!
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Someone may have installed a High Pressure/High Volume oil pump, Gen I & II Small Block Chevies are known to over oil the upper end/valvetrain with a standard volume pump, A HP/HV pump will aggravate this issue!!

Another side effect is abnormal distributor/oil pump drive gear wear......Many Gen II LT1/LT4 engines were wiped out because they will still run when the gear strips!


What do u mean by wipes out because they will still run when the gear strips? Popular or engines failed?
 
Originally Posted by Serolim
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Someone may have installed a High Pressure/High Volume oil pump, Gen I & II Small Block Chevies are known to over oil the upper end/valvetrain with a standard volume pump, A HP/HV pump will aggravate this issue!!

Another side effect is abnormal distributor/oil pump drive gear wear......Many Gen II LT1/LT4 engines were wiped out because they will still run when the gear strips!


What do u mean by wipes out because they will still run when the gear strips? Popular or engines failed?


The Gen II engines would keep running as the Opti-Spark distributor is ran off the front of the camshaft/timing gear. On a Gen1 SBC like your CSFI Vortec.....The distributor is ran off the same gear as the oil pump....If it strips, The engine will no longer run.
 
Originally Posted by Serolim
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Someone may have installed a High Pressure/High Volume oil pump, Gen I & II Small Block Chevies are known to over oil the upper end/valvetrain with a standard volume pump, A HP/HV pump will aggravate this issue!!

Another side effect is abnormal distributor/oil pump drive gear wear......Many Gen II LT1/LT4 engines were wiped out because they will still run when the gear strips!


What do u mean by wipes out because they will still run when the gear strips? Popular or engines failed?


He means that on Gen II SBC's (lt1/lt4) with high volume pumps they have a tendency to strip out the oil pump drive gear. On Gen 1 SBC's the distributor is driven off the same gear and will therefore fail to run. On Gen II SBC's the distributor is driven directly off the front of the camshaft gear and will keep running and tear itself up before the driver even notices.
 
Ah, I was unaware. My understanding has always been they were fine on GMs but not fords due to fords gear being half the size roughly. And couldn't handle the extra strain.
 
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
Someone may have installed a High Pressure/High Volume oil pump, Gen I & II Small Block Chevies are known to over oil the upper end/valvetrain with a standard volume pump, A HP/HV pump will aggravate this issue!!

Another side effect is abnormal distributor/oil pump drive gear wear......Many Gen II LT1/LT4 engines were wiped out because they will still run when the gear strips!


This.
 
Originally Posted by Serolim
Ah, I was unaware. My understanding has always been they were fine on GMs but not fords due to fords gear being half the size roughly. And couldn't handle the extra strain.


Ford Windsor engines tended to liquorice-stick or snap the oil pump drive shaft, since it was hex, which would result in no oil pump, but still an operating distributor. These engines were also frequently a victim of somebody Bubba'ing an HV oil pump into them with 20w-50 and then blaming the engine for them being complete morons when they spun the shaft or, if they put in the ARP hardened shaft, destroyed the drive gear.
 
Originally Posted by Serolim
Forgot to add, it idles once warm at 900ish. The 99 idles at 550.

.


That seems high to me for hot idle for a SBC...anybody else? Is it this high in gear, or Park/Neutral?
 
Idle speed is too high. The gauge is only as good as the sending unit. These are not Fords, they have a "real" gauge. But you must check it with a gauge to verify the sender.

Oil pressure is not as important as it seems. Your high pressure unit is an outlier, most run far less than that.

I am almost certain the condemnation limit for that engine is like 6-9 psi, your 25-40 is just fine. My oldest unit in a fleet has over 200k miles and runs 25-40 all the time.
 
This is also a problem on some diesels. The solution is a kill switch that shuts down the engine if low oil pressure. You have to have a bypass to allow for starting and changing oil. It is often called a murphy switch.

There are many brands, simply google low oil pressure kill switch, find one with the correct features for your engine and install. The bearings you save will pay for it.

Remember that Murphy's law dictates it will activate at the most inconvenient time.

Rod
 
Originally Posted by DriveHard
Originally Posted by Serolim
Forgot to add, it idles once warm at 900ish. The 99 idles at 550.

.


That seems high to me for hot idle for a SBC...anybody else? Is it this high in gear, or Park/Neutral?


In park. Starts at 1100 when first started then goes down.
 
Originally Posted by Serolim
Originally Posted by DriveHard
Originally Posted by Serolim
Forgot to add, it idles once warm at 900ish. The 99 idles at 550.

.


That seems high to me for hot idle for a SBC...anybody else? Is it this high in gear, or Park/Neutral?


In park. Starts at 1100 when first started then goes down.


Just went out and started it to be 100% certain. When I first start it it jumps to 1500, about 5sec later it's at 1100, while In park. 10min later at 800 in park. 700 in drive with my foot on the brake.

Also about the oil mist in the air intake tube, I can't figure out how to upload pics, but I assume u guys knows which tube I'm talking about on the passenger side, not the pcv tube on the drive side. This tube connects from the valve cover to the intake right near the end of the intake up top. Can I put a baffle in there some how? Haven't seen a catch cam made for those trucks that's not a pile of crap. But I assume a good baffle may do it, idk. Just bugs me my others don't have this oil mist. Thanks again guys/girls.
 
Originally Posted by Serolim

Also about the oil mist in the air intake tube, I can't figure out how to upload pics, but I assume u guys knows which tube I'm talking about on the passenger side, not the pcv tube on the drive side. This tube connects from the valve cover to the intake right near the end of the intake up top. Can I put a baffle in there some how? Haven't seen a catch cam made for those trucks that's not a pile of crap. But I assume a good baffle may do it, idk. Just bugs me my others don't have this oil mist. Thanks again guys/girls.


It's called a Fresh Air Tube or a Breather Tube, The OE valve covers ARE baffled. Are your current valve covers aftermarket chrome or something?
 
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
This is also a problem on some diesels. The solution is a kill switch that shuts down the engine if low oil pressure. You have to have a bypass to allow for starting and changing oil. It is often called a murphy switch.

There are many brands, simply google low oil pressure kill switch, find one with the correct features for your engine and install. The bearings you save will pay for it.

Remember that Murphy's law dictates it will activate at the most inconvenient time.

Rod



The engine already has one. It's in the PCM.

Many years ago our 2000 van was run over some landscaping rocks. Blew out the oil pan and the driveshaft! But the engine immediately shut off. PS-that guy doesn't work here anymore!
 
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