After 150,000 miles, I finally started to get the infamous 5.7 Hemi tick on my 2011 RAM truck. No cam/lifter issues (yet).
Been using PYB and Penzz HM oils.
I am not too worried, just a bit annoyed by the sound while it idles at a stop light. And it is not the manifold bolt at #7.
I read elsewhere that Redline 5w20 will solve the noise issue....but not ready to pay that expense. So going to try a 'band aid' additive.
Looking at LiquiMoly Mos2 or Schaeffer's moly.
Thoughts? I know many hate snake oil additives, but have heard positive things on Hemi forums.
GL
5.7 Started ticking: Best band aid?
- Thread starter Greg L
- Start date
I have used Valvoline HM full synthetic with Maxlife technology in 3 different vehicles and it quieted down or even completely stopped any ticking sound. Always have used different synthetics and switched to this oil and all my vehicles seem to love it. Dont know why but it works well Good luck.
Try a 5W30 of your choice.
Thou I didn't have the issue with my engines I wanna say I tried both and like LiquiMoly Mos2 over Schaeffer's Moly better.
I was very skeptical of both to start with too. Now using LM MoS2 in both cars and my daughter's one too. Also gifted a bottle to my boss who is very happy with the results.
I used Liqui-moly MoS2 in my dad's 2013 Grand Cherokee 5.7 with 150k and it was a bit quieter. It ticks a bit when cold, but warmed up it hasn't made any noise. The MoS2 helped with the cold tick. Currently running Castrol 0w40 for 10k mile changes (sees all highway) and it has been pretty quiet so far. I only started with the MoS2 with the last oil change to test it, figuring it wouldn't make a difference.
I might try the Redline next change or the Liqui-moly oil that is supposed to contain the ceratec additive already (their MolyGen oil I believe?).
The 5.7 in my 99' Vette (98k miles) starting ticking a few years ago. I was using Mobil1 EP 5w-30 but switched to QS Ultimate Durability (same viscosity) and the ticking stopped, never returned. YMMV
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I would try Rislone.
Ok, thanks for the suggestions.
Why not just fix it before it destroys the camshaft?
Just learned about this one;
Hy-Per lube oil additive
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
There is no wizard in a can (to use Trav's famous phrase) that's going to eliminate the issue if you have a lifter on the way out. If you can confirm 100% that it isn't the exhaust manifold (does it decrease significantly as the engine warms?) then you should prepare to just get the lifters done, but budget for the cam being part of the job too in case it is already damaged. The expense you know and can prepare for is a heck of a lot better than the one you didn't, which is exactly what chasing the issue with additives is going to result in.
Few threads talking about Moly (e.g. using Red Line oil) fixing or helping some issues ... Not saying if it really works or not as I don't have any personal experience but that's what I remember reading. Maybe a quick thing to try. Was going to say a cheap fix to try first but realized some may jump on that so I said quick instead. 
Nothing comes close to redline 5w30 at killing tick. It's really too bad that it wasn't a different brand name that did this, as somehow mentioning that brand is near a cusword around here. Go to ram forum and find out that time and time again this kills the tick. Go figure that the one formula full of aw/ep additives and pao ester based actually is able to make that metal slide better then sparce api modern formulas. Lubeguard biotech has earned the nick name poor man's redline, as it is the same technology but because it is only a % of that in the sump, it hasn't been as good as killing the ticks, but most certainly worth a shot. Moly additives are the one additive that are NOT snake oil, of course assuming a "certain" formulation. Some so called moly additive contain no moly, such as molygen, some others have near zero moly and are oil thickners such as shaeffers. Warm idle tick is the most insidious of hemi ticks, you cam is being starved proper lubrication. We got guys tuning idles up as well. If you ever try redline 5w30 has had the most success, even over 5w20 and 0w30, and even 10w30. But, if you live in snow country many guys use the 0w30 as some of them have had start up slap on the thick 5w30. 5w20 redline killed my hemi tick since I first used it. I have only heard hemi tick three times since then, once was due to a filter, once was due to trying 10w30 redline that my truck didnt like, and one was when the truck sat for a month or two due to the CA fires. Most people that have success with redline and ticks it takes a while like up to 500 miles for the tick to disappear. If you are concerned you can go to ram forum and post a question, likely 10 different forum members will share the same experience with you. It is not 100%, more like 80%, but considering all we are talking about is an oil change, it is a pretty amazing result.
Liqui Moly makes Hydraulic Lifter Additive. LM20004. The rep stopped by recently and gave me a free can to try in the TDI.
Originally Posted by tiger862
Why not just fix it before it destroys the camshaft?
We literally have guys at hemi forums that put new cam/lifters because of hemi tick, only to still have hemi tick. Maybe if you go to dealer they can give a guarantee, but if you are gonna fix something before it breaks, I would get it in writing to make sure they fix hemi tick as part of the quote. If you look at the people who sell lifters, they actually warn you that the lifters can tick. Many places literally stopped selling lifters but sell everything else, just because they don't want the liability, lol. They will sell you a camshaft, but if there is any tick they will blame lifters that they don't sell. They will even tell you, buy non mds lifters for best chance to avoid tick, but they wont say that will actually avoid tick, just best chance at avoiding tick. Lifters are on backorder nationwide since this crisis. The specialized hemi shops are punting on lifters because for whatever reason they cannot solve this. Go to Moes and search for lifters, all you will see is camshafts hat come with the warning. We still don't have a handle on what the deal is, is it the block or needle bearings? Seams like it if was needle bearings this would be fixable, but clearly this isnt a easily fixable thing. A lubrication strategy may be all you can do with hemi tick, unless you find a shop that will add that guarantee.
Found Lubegard Biotech additive
On Amazon:
$6.05 for the 10oz Bottle.
Includes Free Shipping (no Prime required).
Will try this for now, no budget for a cam/lifter replacement.
It only ticks occasionally after being warmed up...not on initial cold start.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
There is no wizard in a can (to use Trav's famous phrase) that's going to eliminate the issue if you have a lifter on the way out. If you can confirm 100% that it isn't the exhaust manifold (does it decrease significantly as the engine warms?) then you should prepare to just get the lifters done, but budget for the cam being part of the job too in case it is already damaged. The expense you know and can prepare for is a heck of a lot better than the one you didn't, which is exactly what chasing the issue with additives is going to result in.