5/40 in Ford 7.3 gas?

i use 5 and 15w-40 in my 6.0 gas and also used to use 15w-40 in my old 7.5L 1995 f350. i detest how ford revived the 7.3L in gas form when it was the 7.5L 460cid that was the gas engine while the 7.3 was a diesel. it's blasphemy to both sides but hey in these oppressive ohvaphobe times ill take any big ohv engine i can find.
 
View attachment 73349
In all seriousness, you are extremely overreacting. I'm willing to bet $100 that Delvac will do the job as good or (most likely) better than what's in owner's manual, without causing any harm.
$100 is nothing. Not even a bottle of good wine or a tank of fuel. Are you willing to bet $10,650.00. That's the average cost for a Ford dealership to do an engine replacement on a Super Duty with a 7.3 Godzilla.
 
$100 is nothing. Not even a bottle of good wine or a tank of fuel. Are you willing to bet $10,650.00. That's the average cost for a Ford dealership to do an engine replacement on a Super Duty with a 7.3 Godzilla.
Yawn, using oil of a higher viscosity won't damage the engine unless you do something stupid like run 25W60 in Northern Minnesota, as long as you use a grade that makes sense for the climate any viscosity will work, I just wouldn't go thinner than recommended.
 
Yawn, using oil of a higher viscosity won't damage the engine unless you do something stupid like run 25W60 in Northern Minnesota, as long as you use a grade that makes sense for the climate any viscosity will work, I just wouldn't go thinner than recommended.
Why create a solution for a problem that does not exist? Why do people think they are smarter than the OEM with millions of miles of data, testing and top engineers? To each their own. Hopefully it works out for you and your engine. To me, its a bad bet against the house. Just how I roll.
 
Why create a solution for a problem that does not exist? Why do people think they are smarter than the OEM with millions of miles of data, testing and top engineers? To each their own. Hopefully it works out for you and your engine. To me, its a bad bet against the house. Just how I roll.
The manual police couldn't help themselves......... must be real fun at parties. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
$100 is nothing. Not even a bottle of good wine or a tank of fuel. Are you willing to bet $10,650.00. That's the average cost for a Ford dealership to do an engine replacement on a Super Duty with a 7.3 Godzilla.

Going up in viscosity, provided the winter rating is still appropriate for the prevailing conditions, is extremely low risk. While I typically go by what the manufacturer recommends, particularly while under warranty, a 5w-40 in a 5w-30 application won't cause damage. It'll create a slight hit to fuel economy (one that will be imperceptible) and could create a contention point with the SM if there's a warranty issue that comes up and it gets mentioned, but it's not going to cause any sort of mechanical issue with the engine.
 
Why create a solution for a problem that does not exist? Why do people think they are smarter than the OEM with millions of miles of data, testing and top engineers? To each their own. Hopefully it works out for you and your engine. To me, its a bad bet against the house. Just how I roll.
1) Why blow things out of proportion? What exactly about Mobil1 Delvac 5w40 is inferior to the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5w30 that is in the owner's manual? Ever seen any modern engines fail due to modern oils? (assuming both are made in last 5-10 years) Only engines I've seen fail are from owner's neglect, or engines that had factory defects. Counterfeit oils are a huge engine killer overseas, but not so much of a problem in US.

2) Owner manuals aren't written by engineers alone. Owner manuals and recommendations have to comply with CAFE standards, lawyers, etc. So thinnest widely-available lube that gets the engine to last 2x the warranty period is usually picked. Note how every owner's manual states that "recommended oil grade has to be used for optimum fuel economy". Thankfully some (unfortunately not all) do still mention that for severe operation or increased loads in vehicle operation a higher grade of oil should be used.

3) As mentioned earlier - Mobil1 Delvac 5w40 has been around for many years, millions of miles, and in many engines (including forced induction engines), but we have yet to see an engine failure related to that oil and not owner's neglect or manufacturing defect.

Just how I roll. :cool:
 
I am hitting 10k on my Godzilla today and will be changing the oil this weekend.

I wouldn't blink an eye at running any of the 5w40 synthetic HDEO's in this engine.

But....

I am wondering about Pennzoil 5w30 Euro L. It is an approved oil for the wife's Benz diesel and its SN and both gas/diesel approved... and ACEA-C3: Mid SAPS-Level, with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s. 5 quart jugs are cheap at Wally World.


........
 
I am hitting 10k on my Godzilla today and will be changing the oil this weekend.

I wouldn't blink an eye at running any of the 5w40 synthetic HDEO's in this engine.

But....

I am wondering about Pennzoil 5w30 Euro L. It is an approved oil for the wife's Benz diesel and its SN and both gas/diesel approved... and ACEA-C3: Mid SAPS-Level, with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s. 5 quart jugs are cheap at Wally World.


........
IMHO, the Euro L oil would be fine in that truck. Both the thread's discussed 5W-40 and this Euro L should do well. I firmly believe, that with their SN-rating, the cat(s) should handle these dual-rated diesel and gas oils quite handily. In hard working engines, I think these higher HTHS oils would be outstanding performers.
 
Last edited:
I am hitting 10k on my Godzilla today and will be changing the oil this weekend.

I wouldn't blink an eye at running any of the 5w40 synthetic HDEO's in this engine.

But....

I am wondering about Pennzoil 5w30 Euro L. It is an approved oil for the wife's Benz diesel and its SN and both gas/diesel approved... and ACEA-C3: Mid SAPS-Level, with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s. 5 quart jugs are cheap at Wally World.


........
How have you been liking the Godzilla engine?

I am looking at an F250 with this engine for minor towing use. Under 7,000lbs total.
 
I've owned several gas vehicles I've taken past 250k miles, all on the OEM cats. All those engines were fed typical dino PCMOs at the time.

With the 7.3L gas Ford, using an HDEO may or may not be detrimental. It's doubtful it would manifest early in the lifecycle; probably take a long time to happen. But the question really becomes one of the risk/reward issue.

The reward here is that the OP can perhaps use up some stash he's got laying around. Or it's a matter of commonizing oil stock between multiple vehicles?

The risk here is that he may destroy the cats sooner; today's cats are far more expensive as they are more integrated and larger than cats from 25 years ago.

The false economy here is that if anyone thinks the engine will last longer by using HDEO, versus the "savings" of saving the engine from doom by using HDEO in place of PCMO ... well - that's the typical fools errand approach. There's no proof that using HDEO in a PCMO application will make any engine last "longer"; when I say "proof" and "longer", I'm speaking to actual data collected from true controlled study groups and not hyperbole and rhetoric as seen on this site quite often. Engines which don't require HDEOs really don't benefit from HDEOs over good quality PCMOs. These 7.3L gas motors are far too young for any of us to have any proof that they are weak in some manner and "need" a HDEO, but the general success of all gas engines in the common age would indicate you don't benefit from over-indulging in lubes.

Is it worth destroying $1600 worth of cats in the long term to save some money on using the wrong oil in the short term? That's up to him.

He did ask if anyone is actually doing this; using HDEO in place of PCMO with this engine. I'm sure that there are some out there, but none of them have done it long enough for any credible data to have been developed regarding longevity of the engine or the cats in this application.
Sir: we have 2 plow trucks at work 2019 year, reg cab 4WD plain Jane. We are using M1 5w30 in ours without issues.
 
Why create a solution for a problem that does not exist? Why do people think they are smarter than the OEM with millions of miles of data, testing and top engineers? To each their own. Hopefully it works out for you and your engine. To me, its a bad bet against the house. Just how I roll.
The owners manuals say a higher viscosity oil may be more suited.
 
Here are several UOA's for my Ford 7.3 gasoline on M1 TDT 5w-40. As Eli Manning says, I put that 5h!t in everything. Kubota's, Honda cars, Mustangs, Taurus, air cooled generators, antique tractor...

F350 UOA.JPG
 
Back
Top