4Runners & Oil choices

[Jaexyr]

Hello All,

Looking for some input and criticism on my oil choices/ideas.

1. I have a '2000 4Runner Limited' with nearly 160k miles. No known issues, runs great.

As far as oil changes: I've been using "Mobil 1 5w-30 High Mileage" with a can of "BG MOA" standard. Outside Temps in the summer can reach nearly 100F+/-, and -0F in the wintertime.
I plan on continuing with the same "M1 5w-30 HM" in the winter. I had to buy a quart of "M1 0w-30" for the complete fill, due to lack of supply in my area, and I don't see any issue with making it 4w-30 for this run.

2. I also have a '1992 4Runner' w/ 200k with the weak 3.0 engine, and a very very slow oil leak from the rear main... That too uses "M1 5w-30 HM" and you can hear the lifters knocking, on a freezing morning.

Is there any recommendation for continuing the MOA in the wintertime, with either vehicle? What about Lucas Synthetic Oil stabilizer, esp in the 1992?

Thanks in advance, for any input

 

[KingCake]

I have a 2004 Tacoma that had Mobil 1 from 40K-200K and Pennzoil Platinum from 200K to 365K. Still going strong. Zero oil usage.

 

[Jaexyr]

I've seen some charts from Amsoil, showing Pennzoil Platinum being a well rounded Synthetic. Isn't that made from Natural Gas? What made you switch?

 

[Fsharp]

Originally Posted By: Jaexyr
Hello All,
2. I also have a '1992 4Runner' w/ 200k with the weak 3.0 engine, and a very very slow oil leak from the rear main... That too uses "M1 5w-30 HM" and you can hear the lifters knocking, on a freezing morning.

What about Lucas Synthetic Oil stabilizer, esp in the 1992?

Thanks in advance, for any input

Doesn't that engine use shims to adjust the cam followers? If so they're probably just a little looser when cold and the knocking goes away as clearances tighten up. I wouldn't use the Lucas Oil stabilizer which would just make the oil thicker when cold and reduce the flow of oil. I have no idea about the BG MOA stuff.

 

[Nick1994]

Other than the oil additives, you're doing good. I'd use 0w30 in the 2000

No additives.

 

[Jaexyr]

You may be right about the shims in the '92. The knocking only lasts a few seconds.

Yeah, Lucas... the only reason I ask about that, is the Synthetic bottle is thinner than the Heavy Duty one, and states it's better for cold starts

 

[Jaexyr]

I bought the 2000 at 154k, and not sure what was used for the previous oil. Figured the 5w-30 High Mileage wouldn't hurt, since I'm not sure about the wear. Wouldn't 0w-30 not be as protective in the summertime, esp with the heat and a lot of stop & go?

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: Jaexyr
I bought the 2000 at 154k, and not sure what was used for the previous oil. Figured the 5w-30 High Mileage wouldn't hurt, since I'm not sure about the wear. Wouldn't 0w-30 not be as protective in the summertime, esp with the heat and a lot of stop & go?
No. They're both 30 weight oils at operating temperature.

Oil thickens when it is cold, the 0w30 just thickens less. It's still weigh "thicker" when cold than at operating temperature.

 

[Jaexyr]

Ah.. I gotcha. Maybe I will do that

 

[KingCake]

Originally Posted By: Jaexyr
I've seen some charts from Amsoil, showing Pennzoil Platinum being a well rounded Synthetic. Isn't that made from Natural Gas? What made you switch?


1. I just like pennzoil
2. It's a few bucks cheaper than M1
3. Often have rebates
4. I like what I've read about the GTL oils


No need for oil additives. I did 12K oil changes with M1 EP and had the oil analyzed and they told me to go longer. I do 10K on the pennzoil platinum.

The knocking at startup is piston slap. Mine does it too. Nothing to worry about.

 

[krismoriah72]

Ive had 2 1999 models with the 3.4 V6 those engines are commercial grade industrial engines designed by Hino..cant hardly kill them. I ran 5w40 and 5w30 in mine and it didnt care either way. I have a buddy with a 99 model as well and his has nearly 400K with valvoline 5w30 changed at around 6K miles.

On the earlier model i would go with whatever is cheap in a 5w30 with a starburst and keep an eye on it due to the oil leaks.

 

[CT8]

You do not need to add anything to the oil.

 

[GenSan]

I concur with what krismoriah72 just said. Give it basic maintenance and you couldn't kill it if you tried (trust me).

Here's a 1997 4Runner Limited. I just put in Mobil 1 5W-30 EP with a Bosch Distance plus filter. I run that for 12 months minimum/20,000 miles whatever comes first. It sees ambient temps. from -30F (Northern Wisconsin) to high teens in the 100s (South Carolina) on a regular basis and lives outdoors 24/7 with minimal undercarriage and body panel rust.

 

[KingCake]

Originally Posted By: CT8
You do not need to add anything to the oil.


Agreed.

 

[02SE]

Originally Posted By: Jaexyr
Hello All,

Looking for some input and criticism on my oil choices/ideas.

1. I have a '2000 4Runner Limited' with nearly 160k miles. No known issues, runs great.

As far as oil changes: I've been using "Mobil 1 5w-30 High Mileage" with a can of "BG MOA" standard. Outside Temps in the summer can reach nearly 100F+/-, and -0F in the wintertime.
I plan on continuing with the same "M1 5w-30 HM" in the winter. I had to buy a quart of "M1 0w-30" for the complete fill, due to lack of supply in my area, and I don't see any issue with making it 4w-30 for this run.

2. I also have a '1992 4Runner' w/ 200k with the weak 3.0 engine, and a very very slow oil leak from the rear main... That too uses "M1 5w-30 HM" and you can hear the lifters knocking, on a freezing morning.

Is there any recommendation for continuing the MOA in the wintertime, with either vehicle? What about Lucas Synthetic Oil stabilizer, esp in the 1992?

Thanks in advance, for any input

Neither the 3VZE or the 5VZ-FE are picky about oil. I owned the 3VZE in a '93 truck, and still own the 5VZ-FE in a '97 4Runner. I used/ use Mobil 1 in both. My old '97 I bought new, and it still runs and drives pretty much like the day I bought it off the Dealer lot. These days it's mostly just my Winter and occasional fourwheeling trip driver.

Maintain it and you could be driving it for decades to come. There are a couple areas on these trucks that don't respond well to neglect. The lower ball joints can fail without warning. If yours are original, I would strongly suggest replacing them with OEM LBJ's only. None of the aftermarket LBJ's are made as well as the OEM LBJ's.

If your cooling system has been neglected (most are) the coolant can become acidic, and corrode through the transmission cooler in the radiator. Then the transmission fluid and coolant mix with potentially disastrous results for your transmission. Change the coolant, and if the coolant looks to have been neglected, or if it tests for being acidic, replace the radiator.

As for your '92, it sounds like it could use a valve adjustment.

 

[FranklinJL]

I used to have a 1992 4 runner, my kid drives it now. It's got 417,000 miles! I started with valvoline 10w30, went to Mobil 1 10w30 at maybe 100k, switched over to PUP at 400k...only thing wrong was rear main was leaking slow around 300k, got tired of it and fixed it, but could have left it...same alternator and AC compressor lol....

Replaced radiator to a custom build with stock sized core w/ more surface area around 200k

Forgot what type of ball joints are in the truck, but I replaced them around 15 years ago, I use redline grease

 

[02SE]

I should clarify that I was referring mainly to the lower ball joints on 3rd gen ('96-'02) 4Runner's.

The lower ball joints on 2nd gen ('90-'95) 4Runner's don't seem to have as much of a problem with failure.


FWIW, there was a member on a 4Runner website who had 750k+ miles on his all original drivetrain '99 4wd 4Runner, the last I heard a few years ago. Assuming the same rate of mileage accumulation, and assuming he's still driving his oil industry related route in his 4Runner, he could be approaching 1,000,000 miles.

 

[jayg]

M1 HM 5w30 in both with nothing added. That's more than adequate for your vehicles (a quality dino 5w30 would have been fine for you as well). Since you're already running the M1, keep doing what you're doing without an additive.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Jaexyr
That too uses "M1 5w-30 HM" and you can hear the lifters knocking, on a freezing morning.


That don't surprise me.

 

[Bgallagher]

I too used M1HM for some time in both my vehicles and I noticed they were louder and still consumed some oil. Great stuff from all the UOAs etc. but I noticed a significant drop in consumption and noise when I switched to Pennzoil HM. They also make a synthetic HM now which I bet is pretty darn good. Might want to give that a try if you're looking to try something different. Also mentioned in other posts, skip the additives. No need to jazz up something that is already good.