440k mile valve adjustment

JHZR2

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On my Cummins. Was a bit harder than on my Mercedes. I couldn’t find TDC with the pin per the FSM. Not 100% sure why. Also less definite than my Mercedes engines in terms of knowing when the engine is in the right position. On the Mercedes you can easily eyeball when the base circle is in the right spot. Not so easy on the Cummins. Plus barring the engine is harder based upon where the tool is inserted. The Mercedes engines are designed to be turned from the crank.

It took me a while to figure out when the valves were in overlap. I didn’t have the right set of U-joints the first time, so I was turning the engine two ratchet clicks at a time, and trying to see incremental valve motion. Today I gathered the right parts and could move the engine more at any time. So it was easier to see when one valve had come all the way up and the other was just starting to move (overlap).

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Most valves were a bit tight. The way the cam is set, when one set of valves is in overlap, the other paired cylinder is at TDC. So then you can adjust the partner. They are paired as:
1&6
2&5
3&4

Intake is supposed to be 0.01in, exhaust 0.02; my initial measurements were:

2 overlap: 5E= 0.016; 5I=0.007
3 overlap: 4E= 0.022; 5I=0.008
5 overlap: 2E=0.019; 2I=0.008
4 overlap: 3E=0.018; 3I=0.007
6 overlap: 1E=0.021; 1I=0.005
1 overlap: 6E=0.015; 6I=0.008

No idea if/when it was done last.

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All VC seals seemed ok. Seemed like a greater risk of introducing dirt to remove and clean, than to just leave them. I’ll replace when I see seepage. Definitely better seals than what is used on the VC on my Mercedes diesels. Those seals are always leaky and hard...

Nothing really changed, and I wasn’t really expecting it to. Maybe really cold weather starts (which fired off perfect anyway) might have a bit less smoke (wasn’t much anyway. Maybe better/cleaner combustion? This truck just runs so well/free/smooth, so there wasn’t any real concern, just baselining maintenance.

I did see a bit of oily residue, not sure if varnish or what. It was soft and wiped off. Everything else very clean.

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I’m glad I did it even if a bit annoying (and painful to contort and get scratched to do the rear ones.

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JHZR2

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Well how many dB quieter is it now? great job anyways!

This truck is loud. It has a full proper exhaust system, but there’s either a leak, or it has one less muffler then it should. It’s decently (but not obnoxiously or on purpose) loud. Like if at a drive through I get asked to turn the truck off to order.

On the highway it’s never been bad. Just a smooth ride. Not as quiet as a modern car, but that’s more wind noise I think.
 

JHZR2

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Engine looks really clean for 440K miles. What oil have you been using ?
Well I bought it with 435 or 436k (don’t remember exactly) miles, it my understanding is that maintenance was done by a Napa linked shop, and so i think it was the Napa 15w-40, which (I think?) is relabeled Valvoline. It meets the Cummins spec.

I have Delvac 1300 in there now, and I’m going to change it shortly (wanted to do the valves before in case any dirt fell in, I’d be changing the oil and filter anyway.... in will go the Kirkland 15w-40 that is $22.99/3 gal and supposedly has decent zddp.
 
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such a great engine, I’ve wanted to put the 4cyl version 4bt into my 1990 Toyota 4x4. It would just be so awesome. My current 22RE has always been great but we all know she ain’t going anywhere very quickly. I couldn’t imagine pulling a trailer with my 1990 Toyota 4x4 pickup. With a 4bt it would be perfect.
 

JHZR2

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such a great engine, I’ve wanted to put the 4cyl version 4bt into my 1990 Toyota 4x4. It would just be so awesome. My current 22RE has always been great but we all know she ain’t going anywhere very quickly. I couldn’t imagine pulling a trailer with my 1990 Toyota 4x4 pickup. With a 4bt it would be perfect.
Heavy engine though compared to a 22RE. You might break the front end of that truck!
 
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These high mileage exhaust manifolds typically warp, and then leak.

Start with a six pack of MLS gaskets, two bolts at a time with the manifold in place, that negates finding out you have a warped manifold that you can't quite line up on reinstall.

Lots of anti seize after wire brushing the bolts, and 40 lbs-ft with MLS gaskets.

Next time, set lash cold to 8 thou & 18 thou, save yourself some trouble & spin the alternator nut CCW (rather than the barring tool) like I told you last month ;-)

This truck is loud. It has a full proper exhaust system, but there’s either a leak, or it has one less muffler then it should. It’s decently (but not obnoxiously or on purpose) loud. Like if at a drive through I get asked to turn the truck off to order.

On the highway it’s never been bad. Just a smooth ride. Not as quiet as a modern car, but that’s more wind noise I think.
 
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Messages
698
Location
TX & ON
Agreed.

Such a simple engine to work on & maintain, just a bit of fabbing/welding to do the swap, give it clean fuel & it's a winner.

such a great engine, I’ve wanted to put the 4cyl version 4bt into my 1990 Toyota 4x4. It would just be so awesome. My current 22RE has always been great but we all know she ain’t going anywhere very quickly. I couldn’t imagine pulling a trailer with my 1990 Toyota 4x4 pickup. With a 4bt it would be perfect.
 

JHZR2

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Thread starter
Messages
46,274
Location
New Jersey
These high mileage exhaust manifolds typically warp, and then leak.

Start with a six pack of MLS gaskets, two bolts at a time with the manifold in place, that negates finding out you have a warped manifold that you can't quite line up on reinstall.

Lots of anti seize after wire brushing the bolts, and 40 lbs-ft with MLS gaskets.

Next time, set lash cold to 8 thou & 18 thou, save yourself some trouble & spin the alternator nut CCW (rather than the barring tool) like I told you last month ;-)

Thanks, will look into it now thst it’s getting warmer.

What’s the logic to setting them tighter?

I hear ya on the alternator nut; I have a barring tool, so I need to use it at least once ;)
 
Messages
698
Location
TX & ON
When dealing with potentially warped manifold sealing surfaces + the 5 layer MLS (reusable by the way) gaskets, I find 40 seals better than the OE spec of 32.

I've cranked the engines up and step torqued till exhaust leaks vanish, but 40 lb-ft is pretty safe even on a stock head that mates perfectly to a new flat manifold.

Same concept during the odd occasion you have to reuse an injector washer, crowfoot the hold down nut a bit snugger than spec if you see any fuel dribbles or hear any compression leaks.

Yep, I hear ya about the barring tool :)

Out of curiosity - have the injectors been cleaned/replaced at all in your '96?
 
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