Wonders of valve-stem oil seal replacement

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Great write up. But look at all the deposits accumulated. Merkava would have a stroke. What oil and interval. Let me guess,valvoline.
 

Gokhan

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Conventional 10W-30 and 10W-40 for 20 years (a lot of Valvoline and Castrol) followed by a 6-year streak of Mobil 1300 Super 15W-40 CJ-4 HDEO. I think HDEO did the most harm. I have been using TGMO 0W-20 SN synthetic for the last 2 years and I am absolutely loving it. It is undoing the damage done by the HDEO and previous conventional PCMO.
 
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Great post, I learned a few things there. Nice wrap-up at the end. I must be getting slow. I read the title and thought "what the heck does oil have to do with tire valve-stems?" duh!
 
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Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Conventional 10W-30 and 10W-40 for 20 years (a lot of Valvoline and Castrol) followed by a 6-year streak of Mobil 1300 Super 15W-40 CJ-4 HDEO. I think HDEO did the most harm. I have been using TGMO 0W-20 SN synthetic for the last 2 years and I am absolutely loving it. It is undoing the damage done by the HDEO and previous conventional PCMO.
Interesting. So you figure the tgmo is cleaning it up then? Why do you feel the hdeo did the most harm. I assumed that they would be good at cleaning based on having to clean up after a diesel. Does this engine maybe not run hot enough for a hdeo and therefore doesn't take advantage of the potential ability to clean
 

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Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Conventional 10W-30 and 10W-40 for 20 years (a lot of Valvoline and Castrol) followed by a 6-year streak of Mobil 1300 Super 15W-40 CJ-4 HDEO. I think HDEO did the most harm. I have been using TGMO 0W-20 SN synthetic for the last 2 years and I am absolutely loving it. It is undoing the damage done by the HDEO and previous conventional PCMO.
Interesting. So you figure the tgmo is cleaning it up then? Why do you feel the hdeo did the most harm. I assumed that they would be good at cleaning based on having to clean up after a diesel. Does this engine maybe not run hot enough for a hdeo and therefore doesn't take advantage of the potential ability to clean
It's more of a speculation but I was worried about HDEO being too thick and not flowing well. Does an HDEO clean better than a PCMO? I think it's more of a myth than anything else. HDEOs have a lot of dispersants (for soot) that you don't need in a gasoline engine though. I have no intention of doing a valve-clearance adjustment any time soon -- which is an unnerving adjustment because I have to race against the time as the adjustment needs to be done with a hot engine before it starts cooling down. Therefore, I don't know how it looks under the valve cover at the moment. The engine runs great on TGMO 0W-20 SN though -- smoother than ever with any oil and the UOAs seem to be improving with every OCI -- which is a good sign.
 
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Thanks for the instruction. So is there any other way to keep the valves from dropping down than stuffing rope into the cylinders?
 
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I've used these, they allow your air compressor to pressurize the cylinder: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kdt-901?seid=srese1&gclid=CKzSruXAwr0CFUVgMgod8DoAOg but there are other styles that have a flexible hose. They work well. IIRC you have to have the piston at BDC so you don't rotate the engine.
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
So is there any other way to keep the valves from dropping down than stuffing rope into the cylinders?
 

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Originally Posted By: kschachn
I've used these, they allow your air compressor to pressurize the cylinder: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kdt-901?seid=srese1&gclid=CKzSruXAwr0CFUVgMgod8DoAOg but there are other styles that have a flexible hose. They work well. IIRC you have to have the piston at BDC so you don't rotate the engine.
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
So is there any other way to keep the valves from dropping down than stuffing rope into the cylinders?
The rope method is actually very easy to use and works well and there are almost no risks. How difficult can it be to feed a rope through the spark-plug hole? The air-pressure method not only requires an air compressor and a special adapter but if something goes wrong, you may end up having to remove the cylinder head. As I emphasized, the most critical part is the installation and seating of the valve seals. So, if you do this job, make sure to read carefully the part I highlighted in red.
 
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