Honda 3.5 iVTEC valve adjustments.

[Trav]

Just doing a quick valve adjustment on one of these and wanted to check out how my "feel" is after 42 years of doing this. I guess its still okay.
Spec is 0.008-0.009 inch or 0.20-0.24mm Being intake valves and were slightly loose i set them closer to 0.008, made sure the feeler felt like it was magnetized and checked it by holding the rocker up to its max so its not just measuring the feeler gauge.

I double checked all of them this way. Over the top i know but i like to get the engine sounding good as well as running right. It does sound nice though.

 

[CT8]

you do awesome work!!!

 

[OneEyeJack]

If it's your car and it's a keeper then being picky is good.

 

[JHZR2]

Don't they tighten? If so isn't setting them slightly loose the best bet? I haven't adjusted valves on my MBs in a while so I forget...

 

[spasm3]

Nice!! very meticulous!

 

[hansj3]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Don't they tighten? If so isn't setting them slightly loose the best bet? I haven't adjusted valves on my MBs in a while so I forget...


It depends. If you take the time to set them regularly itsfine to set tight. The old addage is that too loose is better than too tight, slapping parts are better than burning valves, but I have not seen a burned valve on modern things in a while

I'll bet that Honda sings now. Great work

 

[spackard]

What's with the dial indicator, as opposed to feeler gauges? Is that a requirement of an iVTEC valve adjustment (I'm a DIY, not a pro.) If not, isn't clearance to use the indicator a big problem?

 

[Vikas]

ya, I don't get how do you check the gap with the dial indicator.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
ya, I don't get how do you check the gap with the dial indicator.


I'm guessing you zero it with the rocker on the valve stem then insert the feeler gauge and see how much the rocker arm deflects up on the dial gauge.

Tell us how its done Trav! how much is a dial set up like that? It looks expensive.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Don't they tighten? If so isn't setting them slightly loose the best bet? I haven't adjusted valves on my MBs in a while so I forget...


Intakes usually loosen and exhaust tighten slightly from seat recession. Intakes can be set on the low end and exhaust at the higher end. This is general info but is relative to this engine.

Originally Posted By: spackard
What's with the dial indicator, as opposed to feeler gauges? Is that a requirement of an iVTEC valve adjustment (I'm a DIY, not a pro.) If not, isn't clearance to use the indicator a big problem?


I do use feeler gauges but on this particular engine getting the "feel" even for someone with a lot of experience is iffy, there is very little room for a good slide of the blade.
I get them so they feel right then remove the feeler gauge and set the inductor with a slight load on it and lock it and set to zero.

At that point i just lift the arm and check the play, if you got it on the money the indicator will confirm that.

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: Vikas
ya, I don't get how do you check the gap with the dial indicator.


I'm guessing you zero it with the rocker on the valve stem then insert the feeler gauge and see how much the rocker arm deflects up on the dial gauge.

Tell us how its done Trav! how much is a dial set up like that? It looks expensive.


I only do this on engines that have limited room for a good "feel", not every engine. These engines are usually very quiet but i hear some really bad valve adjustments. Get this one wrong and its a big job just to get apart so you can do the job, its not an easy engine to do and do right.
Most people just accept a little ticking as normal for a mechanical valve train.

The base with a dial was about $470 i have a few different dials and a few other bases for hard to reach stuff. The base is from Starrett as is most of my measuring tools even the feeler gauges, its good stuff.

I use the dial for all sorts of stuff, i guess its from growing up around a machine shop with a father who was a machinist by trade.

Edit: Here is a thread on this. It is an accepted practice for precision work. Finding someone to do it is another story.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-9...-explained.html

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: Trav


The base with a dial was about $470 i have a few different dials and a few other bases for hard to reach stuff. The base is from Starrett as is most of my measuring tools even the feeler gauges, its good stuff.

Edit: Here is a thread on this. It is an accepted practice for precision work. Finding someone to do it is another story.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-9...-explained.html




I figured it was expensive. For a shop like yours or machinist i'm sure its worth it. For a diy guy its a bit of an investment.

 

[Trav]

Unless you do engine rebuilds, differential and other work that requires a high degree of accuracy there is no need for these tools. Feeler gauges are plenty good enough if you have a good feel for it.
I use the tools because i have them but on jobs you do need them the higher the quality of the tool the better.

I did buy that one but inherited a lot of measuring tools and machinery from my dad.
If you buy feeler gauges at least get the Made in USA ones from Craftsman for $14 or Proto for $20.
You don't need Starrett but you don't want cheap Chinese $hit from AA or AZ or god forbid Horror Freight either, you might as well use a friggin matchbook cover.
Personally i don't like go no go gauges for these jobs, i cant get a good feel from them, i don't own a set and probably never will but to each their own, some guys love them and get good results and thats what counts.

 

[HangFire]

One more thought... (OK two!)

Check your feeler with a micrometer before servicing the engine. Forget the forum, but someone found a brand-name feeler at almost double the thickness. After some examination, it turned out that it and the next size were siamesed/stamped together. It was not obvious.

I have a cheap Fowler dial indicator and dial caliper as well as all kinds of Starrett, B&S and Mitutoyo stuff I got from my Tool & Die Maker Grandfather. The difference is the Chinese instruments will wear out sooner. They can give good service for the occassional use hobbyist if you check them often for slop, zero and accuracy with a few standards. But then we should always be checking our precision measuring instruments against standards, shouldn't we?

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Subject reminds me of the 239 cu. in. Ford 'Y' block OHV V8 I once owned. The valves were adjusted 'hot' with engine running which always made a mess with the rocker arms throwing hot oil everywhere. I haven't adjusted valves since I sold my 96 Honda. And I haven't missed a thing.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: HangFire
One more thought... (OK two!)

Check your feeler with a micrometer before servicing the engine. Forget the forum, but someone found a brand-name feeler at almost double the thickness. After some examination, it turned out that it and the next size were siamesed/stamped together. It was not obvious.

I have a cheap Fowler dial indicator and dial caliper as well as all kinds of Starrett, B&S and Mitutoyo stuff I got from my Tool & Die Maker Grandfather. The difference is the Chinese instruments will wear out sooner. They can give good service for the occassional use hobbyist if you check them often for slop, zero and accuracy with a few standards. But then we should always be checking our precision measuring instruments against standards, shouldn't we?


+1 For sure you need to check them. I checked the feeler gauges (Starrett) with a mike and they are on the money. They will wear in spots over time with a lot of use though.
Starrett is just up the road a few miles so i give mikes and calipers to them for a clean and adjustment, they rebuild a mike to like new for $70.
I checked some off brand junk feelers and they were all off anywhere from 0.001-0.003 in, what good is that? LOL
I agree you don’t need the best for occasional use but a decent quality stable base is a must regardless of brand IMHO.

Quote:
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Subject reminds me of the 239 cu. in. Ford 'Y' block OHV V8 I once owned. The valves were adjusted 'hot' with engine running which always made a mess with the rocker arms throwing hot oil everywhere. I haven't adjusted valves since I sold my 96 Honda. And I haven't missed a thing.


I’ve done a few of those type over the years i even cut the middle out of a pair of old valve covers to keep oil from running down all over the place. Your right they were no fun and a PITA to do.

 

[demarpaint]

Nice job. I bet it purrs like a kitten. Top quality work as always!