400 small block oil

[bigt61]

Mobil 1™ 15W-50
Nominal Phosphorus Level, PPM 1200
Nominal Zinc Level, PPM 1300
Boosted, higher viscosity,advanced full synthetic formula designed for performance vehicles. HT/HS applications. Racing and Flat tappet applications. SN A3/B3

Simple, cheap, effective.

 

[FL_Rob]

Rotella T5 10w30 after you use up your GC .Use you oil pressure gauge,a real mechanics gauge, to determine if you need to change grade a little .Keep with your builder on this.

 

[Trav]

I would go with Mobil 1 0w40 and 8 oz of GM EOS at every OCI.
You need to get oil up to the cam quickly cold yet have enough viscosity at operating temp.
IMO Mobil 1 0w40 is ideal, the zinc level is decent at 1100 ppm

New GM EOS part is #88862586 at any GM dealer.

Quote:
General Motor’s E.O.S. anti wear additive containing a high concentration of ZDDP that’s designed to protect the camshaft lobe and lifter against scuffing and wear during break in.
When used moderately at each oil change, it has little effect on emissions equipment, and greatly enhances the long term life of the cam.

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: Indiana79
20w50 might be a little thick for my bearing clearances thee mains are 19 thousandths clearance which is a little tight. The rods were at 23 thousandths


1.9 and 2.3 maybe?



Yeah, that's what I'm thinking.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Originally Posted By: earlyre
QS defy?
yes it's a High Mileage oil, but isn't it loaded up with lots of zinc? or is my brain gone squidgy.....(it is 4am)
10W40 Defy has 1200 PPM Zinc-that's what I would use.


I wonder if the QS green bottle 20W50 has a high zddp level? Walmart here has the 5 quart jugs of it really cheap. $14 I think.

 

[A_Harman]

My 2 cents is Valvoline VR1 conventional 10w30.
You can order a case at your local NAPA.
Or do a mix of 50/50 VR1 10w30/20w50 if you really can't resist the urge to do a 40-weight.

VR1 has 1300 ppm of Phosphorous.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
My 2 cents is Valvoline VR1 conventional 10w30.
You can order a case at your local NAPA.
Or do a mix of 50/50 VR1 10w30/20w50 if you really can't resist the urge to do a 40-weight.

VR1 has 1300 ppm of Phosphorous.


This is what I suggest. I run this 50/50 mix of VR1 10w30 and 20w50 in my 36' Tiara with twin 454's (flat tappet's as well). You should be able to find this oil somewhere. It's pretty common to find around me.

Your other options is to order Redline Break-In additive and add a half bottle to your oil of choice....I like the idea of Mobil 1 0w40 or GC. Even Rotella T6 5w40.

Another idea is to mix a 50/50 mix of Mobil 1 0w40 and Mobil 1 15w50. That would give you an outstanding oil with adequate ZDDP levels. If you can find 5w50, run that instead of 15w50....but it's unlikely.

 

[fonecord2]

You could run Mobil 1 10w40 Motorcycle oil.

 

[Flareside302]

go with 10w30 as the clearances aren't super wide.

go with any oil you want. after the break in oil. personally I go with Amsoil Dominator 10W30

r use that German castrol up.. its a good option.. a thicker 30 and flows pretty decent at cold weather.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Castrol Edge 5W50 has a high zddp level as well.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: Indiana79
Hello I'm looking for advise on an oil to run in my built 400 small block chevy I just finished up. I just broke the motor in on brad penn break in oil but have yet to put in in my truck. It's built with a flat tappet cam with moderate spring pressures and makes 507 hp at 6200 rpm and it will be driven hard. According to the machine shop I should run a 30 or 40 weight oil for the bearing clearances in my engine. I was thinking of going with a full synthetic oil and I do have plenty of gc 0w30 in my stash but was unsure if it will provide adequate protection for the flat tappet cam ?? Any advise is appreciated.


I have been flailing a 421 inch small block chevy based engine for many years now. Even at a slightly more radical power level my engine is perfectly happy on almost any nice syn 30 weight. I really prefer Mobil 1 0w-40 due to it being on the light side of 40w oils and nice additive levels and such.

If yours is carbureted like mine fuel dilution is all you need to worry about after break in is over.

 

[Zaedock]

Originally Posted By: Indiana79
20w50 might be a little thick for my bearing clearances thee mains are 19 thousandths clearance which is a little tight. The rods were at 23 thousandths


.0019 to .0023 is factory.

A 30wt motor oil is all you need unless you plan extended beatings in which case oil temperature may require a 40wt for safety. For drag racing and cruise night GC 0W30 would be a fine choice.

I built the 355 in my Malibu drag car with a solid lifter and have run all sorts of oils. Mobil 1 5W30 worked well and is actually what my brother uses in his Olds Omega drag car that pushes more than 600HP.

 

[bubbatime]

Valvoline VR1 is readily available. That would be my choice.

2nd choice would be 10W40 Quaker State Defy. They state that the 10W40 flavor has higher levels of anti-wear additives than their 10W30.

 

[novadude]

Surprised no one mentioned Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30. Nice HTHS numbers and a good dose of ZDDP.

 

[Zaedock]

Originally Posted By: novadude
Surprised no one mentioned Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30. Nice HTHS numbers and a good dose of ZDDP.


Yeah, that's a good choice. I would probably pick the 5W30 though.

 

[Brent_G]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: Indiana79
Hello I'm looking for advise on an oil to run in my built 400 small block chevy I just finished up. I just broke the motor in on brad penn break in oil but have yet to put in in my truck. It's built with a flat tappet cam with moderate spring pressures and makes 507 hp at 6200 rpm and it will be driven hard. According to the machine shop I should run a 30 or 40 weight oil for the bearing clearances in my engine. I was thinking of going with a full synthetic oil and I do have plenty of gc 0w30 in my stash but was unsure if it will provide adequate protection for the flat tappet cam ?? Any advise is appreciated.


I have been flailing a 421 inch small block chevy based engine for many years now. Even at a slightly more radical power level my engine is perfectly happy on almost any nice syn 30 weight. I really prefer Mobil 1 0w-40 due to it being on the light side of 40w oils and nice additive levels and such.

If yours is carbureted like mine fuel dilution is all you need to worry about after break in is over.


+1 on the Mobil 1 0w40. Has worked well for us in quite a few different builds.

 

[Rob_Roy]

There are a lot of different oils that will work. Often it comes down to personal preference and/or availability. If you are considering a monograde here is one that no one mentioned: http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/2-110-td.pdf

Is the 400 overbored? Even in stock form they need a good radiator. Depending on how you intend to use it, it may also be a good idea to hook up an oil temperature gauge.

 

[jrustles]

Originally Posted By: Zaedock

I built the 355 in my Malibu drag car with a solid lifter and have run all sorts of oils. Mobil 1 5W30 worked well and is actually what my brother uses in his Olds Omega drag car that pushes more than 600HP.


Wow, certainly you could do better than that!!


Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Valvoline VR1 is readily available. That would be my choice.

2nd choice would be 10W40 Quaker State Defy. They state that the 10W40 flavor has higher levels of anti-wear additives than their 10W30.


This is closer to what I'd suggest using.

 

[Indiana79]

Thanks for all the advise on pointing me in the right direction on which oil to run. I spoke with my engine builder today when I returned his engine stand and he said right now my clearances are too tight for 20w50. I ended up ordering a case of brad penn 10w30 since I couldn't even find vr1 10w30 locally. I also ordered lubro molly mos2 additive off amazon that I may dump in after the motor gets a few miles on it. I'm going to do at least 2 oil changes with the brad penn oil then possibly switch to gc.

 

[A_Harman]

Nice. I think the Brad Penn is a good choice. I think it should be easy to get Brad Penn in Pennsylvania. After all, it's made in Bradford, Pennsylvania.