Thank you. What filter would you recommend?
3rd Heater Core Plugged In 6 Months...
- Thread starter JWC86
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- Jul 18, 2021
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Not sure on the head, but for your situation a non-chemical standard service water filter would probably do the trick.
Wrong answer. YOU bought that heater core. That is YOUR property. Everything on that truck is yours.
A warranty claim is Ford supplying a new part at THEIR expense. Your property doesn't automatically transfer to THEM on warranty claims.
Obvious the tech ghosted your truck. Or the heater core was a defect from Ford. Who knows till you get YOUR parts back and cut them open or use a USB bore scope on them.
I've made the Toyota service writer go dig in the trash for MY, old worn out gas tank vent hoses that were dry rotted and cracked to death. I wanted to see if they ACTUALLY replaced anything. Dude went and came back with my hoses LOL. Remember THEY work you YOU.
this filter has a lot of bad reviews on Amazon. I was thinking of using it inline before my heater core, but the reviews changed my mind.
It seems so, I’ve gone about 800hrs of operation since it was last replaced and flushed. It’s been blowing good heat all winter.
Update and edit to my last post, I was wrong on that 800hrs since it was replaced, I must have been looking at one of the previous replacements.
I just had the 4th replacement heater core installed 2 days ago.
It was 600hrs of operation since the last, 20,000 km (12,400 miles)
The tech replaced all the sound isolators with new and replaced every clip with new and the dash is nice and solid this time.
Still not sure why they are plugging up but going to look into a filter.
I just had the 4th replacement heater core installed 2 days ago.
It was 600hrs of operation since the last, 20,000 km (12,400 miles)
The tech replaced all the sound isolators with new and replaced every clip with new and the dash is nice and solid this time.
Still not sure why they are plugging up but going to look into a filter.
I talked to my main tech and I think I'm going to put a filter in the system. We spit balled some ideas on where in the system would be the best place for it. I had originally suggested installing it right before the heater core with the intent that it would best protect the core there but he was concerned about heater performance which does make sense.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Provided the filter doesn't plug, I don't imagine the filter will hinder heater operation. Keep in mind that the core is getting fed 100*C coolant when everything is at operating temperature and it's not shedding 100*C just going through the dash for your heat.
Have they opened a case file with Ford's Technical assistance? This is for sure the time for them to be doing a field product information report. They should possibly even be sending an engineer out to investigate.
Also to the folks stating you own the part that they remove, yes but no. Warranty parts get returned for failure analysis. Not returning the part opens up the dealer to the possibility of the warranty claim being denied
Have they opened a case file with Ford's Technical assistance? This is for sure the time for them to be doing a field product information report. They should possibly even be sending an engineer out to investigate.
Also to the folks stating you own the part that they remove, yes but no. Warranty parts get returned for failure analysis. Not returning the part opens up the dealer to the possibility of the warranty claim being denied
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Sounds like a situation similar to what you're going through...just thought I would share, via our coolant sales team.
Dodge caused their own issues because....
Pre 2013 they used HOAT G-05 coolant, which was orange, but NOT compatible with the ubiquitous orange dexcool.
2013 they switched to an OAT, which was VERY NOT compatible with G05, but actually compatible with dexcool. They needed to make it a new color, so it became purple, as per mopar/fiat purple. Some reports are that the purple fades to orange. It was pretty much dexcool without the 2EHA with a ridiculous 10 year change interval.
Basically you can't judge a coolant by its color anymore. Many of those trucks then suffered from water pumps replaced under recall, casting sand in the blocks, silica fallout in the coolant, etc. Who knows how many "mechanics" have dumped whatever looks right into those systems and thus the modern schmorgaboard of "universalish" junk coolant formulations. The only way to recover is to flush, acid clean, flush again, replace the water pump, and then go back with a good stuff. Which is why I now pledge allegiance to Fleet Final Charge Pro.
Unfortunately now you've got about four classes of HD coolants that are all red, so the same problem exists as with all the yellow/gold/oranges.
Pre 2013 they used HOAT G-05 coolant, which was orange, but NOT compatible with the ubiquitous orange dexcool.
2013 they switched to an OAT, which was VERY NOT compatible with G05, but actually compatible with dexcool. They needed to make it a new color, so it became purple, as per mopar/fiat purple. Some reports are that the purple fades to orange. It was pretty much dexcool without the 2EHA with a ridiculous 10 year change interval.
Basically you can't judge a coolant by its color anymore. Many of those trucks then suffered from water pumps replaced under recall, casting sand in the blocks, silica fallout in the coolant, etc. Who knows how many "mechanics" have dumped whatever looks right into those systems and thus the modern schmorgaboard of "universalish" junk coolant formulations. The only way to recover is to flush, acid clean, flush again, replace the water pump, and then go back with a good stuff. Which is why I now pledge allegiance to Fleet Final Charge Pro.
Unfortunately now you've got about four classes of HD coolants that are all red, so the same problem exists as with all the yellow/gold/oranges.
Coolant temp would be my first concern.
After I got my 2005 Ram Cummins truck in 2019, decided to put a coolant filter on it.
On the 5.9l removed a head plug near the back then ran hoses down to the frame rail passenger side where I mounted the filter. I used a WIX coolant filter. And used transmission cooler hose.
I never had any issues, thought would be a good idea. The return from filter is teed into return from heater core.
There is some benefit to tapping into the head for an outflow input to filter as it helps to relieve excess heat, better head coolant flow as sometimes #6 cylinder gets too hot, maybe if towing? I read #6 cylinder can overheat on the Cummins forum
And the coolant is clean
Album of pics
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aHBVg837owVMQoYu7
I know it still works as the filter gets hot, means coolant is flowing.
The filter head is actually a gasoline marine app filter base I had unused.
On the 5.9l removed a head plug near the back then ran hoses down to the frame rail passenger side where I mounted the filter. I used a WIX coolant filter. And used transmission cooler hose.
I never had any issues, thought would be a good idea. The return from filter is teed into return from heater core.
There is some benefit to tapping into the head for an outflow input to filter as it helps to relieve excess heat, better head coolant flow as sometimes #6 cylinder gets too hot, maybe if towing? I read #6 cylinder can overheat on the Cummins forum
And the coolant is clean
Album of pics
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aHBVg837owVMQoYu7
I know it still works as the filter gets hot, means coolant is flowing.
The filter head is actually a gasoline marine app filter base I had unused.
Last edited:
Thank you, that was helpful!
Its not hard to connect one. For yours, I would plumb it in right before the heater core in the input hose
$13 at Amazon where I buy mine. I have 10,000 miles on it right now.
Here is a pic of one and looked what it picked up in 500 miles!
When you do not have a filter, your coolant can get really gross.
And all that crap gets circulated all through the motor.
My engine coolant looks great and clear.
Have you checked to see how much gunk has been collected by the filter?
No, no point as it is still getting hot, so I know it's working ok.
10,000 miles on it and the coolant is clear, looks like new
That's' great!
