3M Fuel System Cleaner 8813

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GSV

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My wife's 99 Soob Legacy hits the big 100,000 in a couple weeks so it is tuneup time. I tried the 3M Fuel System Cleaner 8813 this time around. Being from 3M it seems like it would be a decent product. At $11.86 a 16oz. bottle it is pricey but I figure the car had earned a thorough cleaning.

One unexpected benefit after using this 1 bottle is the fuel gauge is now reading accurately again.
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I recently started a thread in the Mechanical section about this problem. inaccurate fuel gauge I was prepared to pull the fuel level sending unit from the Soob and clean it but this stuff did it for me. {SWEET} Previous treatments with Techron, FP or Lucas did not effect this, nor did I expect it.

I went back to NAPA and bought a second bottle to run in my Nissan which has had a funky fuel guage since I bought it used 7 months ago. I'll report back on what happens with it in this application.

I would assume this stuff is too strong to use on a regular basis but it could be the ticket for a deep cleaning. I would definetely replace the fuel filter after using it just to be safe.

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3m's fuel system cleaning kit is excellent and worth it.

1 can of areosol cleaner hooked into the fuel rail,
1 bottle of fuel system cleaner
1 can of throttle plate cleaner

the engine runs off of the areosol cleaner.

it's pretty sweet.
 
quote:

Originally posted by seotaji:
3m's fuel system cleaning kit is excellent and worth it.

1 can of areosol cleaner hooked into the fuel rail,
1 bottle of fuel system cleaner
1 can of throttle plate cleaner

the engine runs off of the areosol cleaner.

it's pretty sweet.


I found the 3M TB plate cleaner at O'reilleys(sp)..what chains carry the fuel system cleaner and the cleaner that goes into the vacumn hose? I am not paying freakin 75-100 bucks to have it done at a oil change place lol. I got the 3M TB cleaner for 5 bucks...same can that comes in the 3 step kit.
 
3M™ Universal Fuel System Cleaner 08955, 12 oz Net Wt, 12 per case
[click to enlarge] 3M Fuel System Cleaner (100 psi Can) is a proprietary mixture of high octane fuel, deposit removing solvents, a water micro-emulsion, detergent-dispersants, corrosion inhibitors and lubricants.


3M Id : 60-9800-3839-6
GTIN(UPC/EAN) : 0 00 51135 08955 2
Buyer's Part Number : 08955


Additional Information Learn More . . .

Packaging Data

MSDS (United States)


3M™ Universal Fuel System Cleaner, PN 08955 - Data Sheet (PDF 30.0 K)



Please Note:
Adobe® Acrobat® Reader is required to view PDF documents.







Developed in the 1990's as a concentrated cleaner formulated to clean intake valves, combustion chambers and fuel injectors, going beyond the cleaning capabilities of 3M™ Fuel Injector Cleaner. It is a disposable pressurized can that requires specialized hardware to administer. It is designed to be attached directly to the engine fuel system with appropriate 3M adapters and hardware
I think I will try it since nobody said anything bad about it.
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Not quite:3M™ Intake System Cleaner Adaptor Kit (Non-Aerosol)


Code: MMM08950 Series
Options: Intake_System -Select which system you are using-P/N MMM08961 - Adapter Kit for Non Aerosol Kit (#MMM08959)P/N MMM08962 - Adapter Kit for Aerosol Kit (#MMM08960)

Availability: Usually ships the next business day.
Everyday Price: $61.95
Sale Price: $49.95
 
Taken from ClubGP, originally posted by RatRacer

Here's what you'll need:
1 ea. R-12 freon can TOP tapper, they're still out there but you'll have to search.
2 ea. Brass 1/4" NPT Male to 1/4" barbed adapters
1 ea. Brass 1/4" NPT Tee connector
2 ea. clamps to fit the hose
1 ea. 1/4" NPT pressure gauge, air compressor ones are the easiest to find.
1 ea. #5 (3/8" od x 1/4" id x 1/16") O-ring to replace one that must be changed.
1 roll Teflon plumber's tape
1 sm tube RTV sealant
1 ea. #10 screw

I'll put some links to pix of a completed unit at the end of this.

1) Cut the can tapper hose ~ 5" from the end that goes to the car - not the can.
2) File about 1/8" off the connector on that hose.
3) Disassemble the connector that goes on the freon can end.
4) Remove the O-ring or washer that's inside that end.
5) File about 1/8" off of the larger threaded end or enough until the new o-ring protrudes a little over ½ its diameter outside the newly filed edges. RTV in place.
6) Re-assemble the "can end" valve.
7) Put one clamp on each of the (now) two hose ends.
8) Wipe a little dish soap on the barbed ends.
9) Heat the hose ends under very hot water.
8) Install the barbed adapters on the open hose ends and clamp them.
10) Wrap two turns of the teflon tape on the threaded ends of the barbed adapters
11) Wrap two turns of the teflon tape to the gauge threads.
12) Tighten everything up very snug to prevent any leaks.

Here's some pix:
http://members.cox.net/2rcox/injector/pix1.jpg
http://members.cox.net/2rcox/injector/pix2.jpg
http://members.cox.net/2rcox/injector/pix3.jpg
http://members.cox.net/2rcox/injector/pix4.jpg

Using the injector cleaner:
1) Unscrew the top cap connector from the valve and install it on the can.
2) Remove the cap on your fuel rail (do not loose it!)
3) Open the underhood fusebox and remove the 15A fuel pump fuse.
4) Try to start the car - if it runs you pulled the wrong fuse.
5) Remove the vacuum line from the fuel regulator and plug it with the screw.
6) Ensure that the can tapper needle valve is backed all the way out.
7) Thread the tapper valve into the adapter you've already installed on the can.
8) Slowly turn the can tapper valve until you read about 40 psi on the gauge.
9) Make sure the cleaner can is in an upright position.
10) Start the car and let it run until it's used up all the cleaner.
11) Take everything back off and put back the fuse and fuel rail cap.

If your car is over a year old and you've never had the injectors professionally
cleaned don't be surprised if your gas mileage goes up along with a slight increase in power. :-)

Approximate parts costs: (but remember you'll be hitting several places)
1 ea. R-12 freon can TOP tapper ~$10.00
2 ea. Brass 1/4" NPT Male to 1/4" barbed adapters ~$ 1.50 each
1 ea. Brass 1/4" NPT Female Tee connector ~$ 4.00
2 ea. clamps to fit the hose ~$ 1.00 each
1 ea. 1/4" NPT pressure gauge ~$10.00
1 ea. O-ring to replace one that must be changed ~$ 0.39
1 roll Teflon plumber's tape. ~$ 1.00
1 tube RTV sealant ~$ 2.99
1 ea. #10 screw, almost any kind will work ~$ 0.10
Tax ~$ 2.80
 
I think I'm going to try the 3M Fuel System Cleaner 8813 that you put in the tank. This seems to be a strong cleaner. Do you think it could have any affect on my arx treatment? After the arx I think I will try the throttle plate and fuel rail cleaners.
 
I just saw some of this stuff at the carquest. Is this like for extreme situations only, or would this be good at fixing a car with minor-medium deposits?
 
I worked with 3M's facilities group for several years as a private contractor and had the opportunity to see firsthand many of their manufacturing facilities.
I never saw anything that indicated that 3M's R & D and quality control was anything short of excellent. Based on observation, I would not hestitate to use any of their products.
It'a amazing what they actually make, everything from films, vinyls, abrasives, health products, electrical products, all kinds of stuff.
The best part was going to the company stores where they sell first runs, over-runs, etc at almost give-away pricing! Miss that part!
Anyway bottom line is that I would say that you can use their stuff with confidence (and no I don't work with them anymore).
 
I'm a big fan of 3M. I have never purchased a product from them that didnt live up to expectations. I have no doubt that their fuel cleaner is excellent, as I have used their adhesive remover and spray penetrant lube on cars with good results.

BTW a little fun fact:

3M stands for Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing
 
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