370z VQ37 - a fuel diluter?

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I've got a friend with a 2012 370z (VQ37VHR) and he's complaining that the oil smells a little like gasoline. He's obsessive like a BITOGer, although he is not a BITOGer. I think he'll probably end up taking it to the dealership to get it checked out (it's only got about 3700 miles on it) but I'm wondering if it's just a little fuel dilution from a pretty high strung engine that gets driven hard (not abused).

I'm not seeing much online about these engines being fuel diluters, though, or having their oil smell like gas. Anyone have any experience with VQ37s to give an idea how likely it is this is a problem?
 
This isn't used oil, just oil on the dipstick (only has about 1500 miles on it now I think). I don't think either of our cars dipsticks smell like gas.
 
Originally Posted By: rationull
I'm not seeing much online about these engines being fuel diluters, though, or having their oil smell like gas. Anyone have any experience with VQ37s to give an idea how likely it is this is a problem?

My oil does not smell like gas, at least in comparison to what I'd call real fuel dilution (like when the F-150 had the bad carb). I don't think any of the UOAs I've seen here or in the G37/370Z forums indicate any problems with fuel dilution.
 
When the engine is cool smell the oil fill hole. N/A engines commonly smell like charcoal lighter fluid to me. I don't think that's fuel, I think it's normal for used oil.
 
1) The Blotter Spot Test

This test reveals oxidation products, sludge formation, dispersancy failure, glycol contamination, water contamination, fuel dilution, and high levels of particles.

You want to place a drop or two of used oil on the surface of chromatography paper (good heavy white card stock works pretty well too). Lay the paper or business card flat, but so that all but the very edges of the paper is suspended. For a fairly stiff business card, placing two pencils down on a table and laying the business card so that the ends are resting on the pencils would work well.

You want to wait for the paper or card to absorb the oil drop(s) which might take awhile. Once all of the oil has been drawn into the pores of the paper you can begin evaluating the condition of your oil.

- A colorless spot or slight yellow outer ring – “good” oil.
- A dense, dark deposit zone: Dispersancy failure
- A black, pasty zone: Glycol (Antifreeze) in your oil
- A dark center with distinct outer ring: Severely oxidized oil
- A dark center with surrounding rings: Fuel in oil

Information for the blotter spot test found in:

Fitch, J.C., “The Lubrication Field Test and Inspection Guide”
 
The factory fill oil has some ester in it, that might smell different than dino oil? Anyway I've never heard of fuel dilution issues in the VQ37. You say it has 3700 miles on it, and 1500 on the current oil change? Why is he changing the oil so often? I would have stayed with the factory fill until 3750 miles as specified.

Does it use oil? These will use oil during breakin. And if he hasn't properly broke the engine in it may always use oil, and I suppose if the piston rings never seat, it could have blowby?

Given the miles and the fact he has already probably hit redline, he should do an abbreviated engine breakin. With the car in second gear do full throttle blasts to almost redline, than let off and decelerate under engine breaking to 15mph or so and do that 10 times. Let it cool a bit and do it again. If you don't break this engine in hard (though keeping away from redline at first) they seem to have more issues with using oil.
 
I will let him know about the blotter test. That could be interesting. One way or another it should be getting a UOA at some point too.

Originally Posted By: BrandonT
The factory fill oil has some ester in it, that might smell different than dino oil? Anyway I've never heard of fuel dilution issues in the VQ37. You say it has 3700 miles on it, and 1500 on the current oil change? Why is he changing the oil so often? I would have stayed with the factory fill until 3750 miles as specified.

Does it use oil? These will use oil during breakin. And if he hasn't properly broke the engine in it may always use oil, and I suppose if the piston rings never seat, it could have blowby?

Given the miles and the fact he has already probably hit redline, he should do an abbreviated engine breakin. With the car in second gear do full throttle blasts to almost redline, than let off and decelerate under engine breaking to 15mph or so and do that 10 times. Let it cool a bit and do it again. If you don't break this engine in hard (though keeping away from redline at first) they seem to have more issues with using oil.


This isn't a daily driver and so doesn't get many miles -- 3700 miles on it but he's had it about a year. He's doing OCIs based on time (the maintenance schedule calls for 6 months). I think he changed out the factory fill either ~6 months after manufacture or about 500 miles after the owners' manual break-in period was over, I don't remember what drove it. I think it's a little overkill but it's not my car
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Not very many miles on it so can't be sure yet, but so far it doesn't seem to use oil. I think he had to top it up to the tune of 1/4-1/2 quart once during break-in but he says it's been steady ever since. IIRC the break in period in the owners manual was 1000 miles or so, and he did it by the book for the most part. Since that point it's had plenty of throttle and I think plenty of engine braking too.
 
I have my UOA's posted in the forum: fuel dilution has not been a problem. Its not a DI engine either, just one that arguably can be a bit tough on oil if you run higher RPMs on it (and you should: its a sports car
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) due to the design of its VVT system.

Ester based oils will quiet the valve train noise some folks complain about. For me Pennzoil Ultra every 6mo has been just peachy. My car see's a lot of HW miles and gets lots of happy pedal time whenever possible.

- b
 
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What I'm hearing here mirrors what I've seen elsewhere. Sounds like he should get this checked out or at least do a UOA next oil change for a start.
 
$25 for the UOA will at least give us some idea of what might be happening. Until then, it's just speculation.
 
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