3000 mile oil change? Not so fast, experts say

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Go used car shopping and take a peak under the oil fill caps on used cars with under 40K miles and start looking, you will be amazed how many already are nice and varnished up, indicating that most do not change often enough, and definateley not every 3000 miles. In my area I never see people change their oil and I know a few techs who tell me if people get around to it twice a year or so that is pretty good. note too, most dont use the synthetics, bulk oil is good enough.

Originally Posted By: The_Eric
At least in my area, there's a pretty good chunk of people who do change at 3k. I'd say the bulk of our "regular" customers come back in the 2500-3500 mile range for a service. That's where we will give the car a good once over, top off the levels and let the customer know about any trouble areas.
 
Originally Posted By: rclint
I guess I would be the odd sheep here... as I don't maintain my car as well as many of you here seem to do !! I do NOT check the dipstick at every fill up, and many times not even once a week.. yet I put on a lot of miles during the week. I try to get the most money I can out of my oil purchase, and filter, however I also want to protect my engine, so I follow the manufacture recommended schedule, and dictate that to be non severe at around 10k with a filter change every other oil change when running conventional.

Those wanting to see million mile engines on dine or synthetic I don't see the point. A million mile engine means nothing to me as i don't plan on keeping my car, or engine for a million miles. All of the conventional, synthetic, 3k or 10k changes mean nothing... it's helpful to give information to others on how you or I go about an OCI, however those of us that have been here for a week or so have pretty much will not change how they go about maintaining their car.

I for one think looking at the manufactures owners manual is the best place to start, and if you drive somewhere between severe/non severe meet in the middle, non severe do the non severe.. It's not to hard in my opinion to pick out a schedule for oil change.. If a special circumstance arises then by all means rise to the occasion either way more or less miles..

and last but not least saying 3k OCI does not hurt anything well pushing that towards others that do not have your unique circumstances may well indeed cause another to spend money needles.. When talking about clean engines, million milers, or whatever 3k changes will not get you there any more than a 12k change if the oil is still good in the engine at 12k.


The benefit of maintaining a car so as to have it last is that when the payments stop, and your warranty is up, you can continue to enjoy the ride and put the car payment money into other things. It doesn't need to last a million miles for good maintenance to pay off in terms of longevity and reduced frequency of repairs and consequent downtime. New car novelty isn't a draw for everyone.

Even for those not planning to keep it, the maintenance put into it will pay off through a higher resale value.

Either one results in a lower total cost of ownership and is a win. And there is your why.

Edit: I actually prefer older cars: easier to work on, fewer parts that can fail. My '79 Rabbit I had to sell is still the gold standard for me and that had no frills at all. 4 speed manual, no tach, AM radio, no AC, no power anything. Even the usage of fabric for interior trim was kept to a minimum. That car had 350,000 km on it when I bought it, and still ran like new 2 years later when I sold it. Taking into account the difference I paid in price when purchased vs when sold, and adding in the couple things I replaced, total cost of ownership over that two year period was $900 tops. A newer car would have done essentially the same thing, but I'd pay what I paid over 2 years within the first 3 payments.

Different stokes.

-Spyder
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I like the 6 months oci. About 4500 on mine every 6 months. I want clean oil in for the winter.


I started doing that a while back on 2 vehicles, June and December, it works very well with my under warranty Jeep. On occasion I'll cheat and do a virtual OC.

I might try a 9 month OCI for my work van, splitting the difference between 6 months and the 1 year OCI I was doing. I'm driving it a bit more now, 6 months is wasteful and 1 year is a bit too long IMO. I fall under severe service. Many people fall under severe service and don't even realize it, which could be why so many people have sludge issues. JMO
......My oci months,down here,are March and September. Severe service. Lots of short trips,heat,towing a small Bass Boat several thousand miles a year.
 
I do. Severe service on my Accord V6 is 3750 or 6 months. I'm a little over on my Spring run. 4200-4500 miles but my EP can handle it.
 
95% of my driving is highway miles, I run Mobil 1 to 7000 miles, I know I could probably do more, but my brain won't let me, lol. 7K is long enough anyway.
 
Most dont even read it and now most are on CD

Originally Posted By: Rockford Fosgate Fan
I got an idea, why doesn't the average consumer follow that little booklet that came with the car, you know the owner's manual.
 
Originally Posted By: cryption
Wait, let me get this right, you run a 10k OCI and change the filter every OTHER oil change? So 20k on a filter? What filters are you running?

Am I the only one who is baffled by this? What car is it that the manufacturer says 20k on an oil filter?


I dunno if your the only one baffled as there have been some comments before showing criticism towards my maintenance plan/OCI... The owners manual recommends the filter be changed every other OCI, so I have started doing this I have yet to see any difference in the filter from 10k to 20k. I run Purolator Pure 1 filters, Mobil 1 E filter, napa gold/wix, and fram filters... I use the expensive fram filter extraguard or something like that, and the reason I spend the money on the fram is because I don't feel like making another trip (pick oil, and filter up at walmart)

I really don't understand the issue with filters, are they exploding in use on people ? I have had 1 filter fail which was a purolator white can whatever that is, and teh filter was good, however something was wrong with the o-ring/seal as it leaked oil at that point which I noticed right after the oil change. I can take a pick under the fill cap if you wish, I assure you it's just as clean as other synthetic low OCI fill hole pics.. ( I don't put much faith in the fill hole)
 
I have a fram extraguard filter now with around 26k on it sitting outside on the drain pan.... No problems at all during the run, and I think it may be one of the better filters for the money even though it's really expensive when you can get a top notch filter, and oil at walmart instead of driving around to different stores I think that's a savings in itself.

Car is a Honda Accord 2.3L I4
 
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Originally Posted By: rclint
I have a fram extraguard filter now with around 26k on it sitting outside on the drain pan.... No problems at all during the run, and I think it may be one of the better filters for the money even though it's really expensive when you can get a top notch filter, and oil at walmart instead of driving around to different stores I think that's a savings in itself.

Car is a Honda Accord 2.3L I4


Likely the issue people have is that a filter can only hold so much [censored], then it goes into bypass mode and your oil is no longer getting filtered. 20k is a lot of miles to put on even a top of the line filter. For the sake of the few bucks saved, and how small it is when averaged out over the length of your OCI, I would change it at each OC. Oil is cheap. Filters are cheap. Engines are not cheap. That's how I look at it, but its not my car so its up to you to decide on what you feel is best.

-Spyder
 
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Hello All, To subiedriver: I too do 90%+ highway driving with my Volvo 2.435 I5 non-turbo with Mobil 1 for the recommended 7,500 mile oci. I cut it shorter for any reason at all. In any case the oil has still just begun to pick up "blackness". I'm confident I'm doing the right thing.
To VNTS: I've yet to see a CD owner's manual. How will the owner get his dealer service stamps? Ha-Ha
To Spyder: I agree with you. No way in the world would I ever change oil in anything with out changing the filter too. You can't tell if the media is torn, plugged or simply not "tucked in". There's no percentage in it what-so-ever. Kira
 
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Spyder7 ( I always think of a knife when I see your name as I carry a spyderco knife) I understand your position on this matter, but Honda done huge amounts of R&D to come to this conclusion which I think is perfectly acceptable. In my musings doing the drain time, and filter mileage I would like to find out if indeed that he filter is going into bypass mode, if anyone can provide me with a means of determining this I would spend a few bucks to see if this is actually happening (filter going into bypass mode) It would be a outstanding trial. I myself think filters hold up much longer than what we or many here think they do.

Even if the filter did g into bypass mode I don't see that as hurting much either as the sump itself is a carrier filter which gets drained out.... however I understand your point, and if I thought for one minute that the filter was going into bypass mode I would shorten the OCI, or change filter at every OCI. Maybe some of the real extended drain guys can chime in on this.

We are of two completely different camps, you err on the ide of caution maybe a bit to much, I err on the side of trusting the manufacture of both the oil filter, and the Honda OEM owners manual which I trust more than teh filter.. If it were not for the owners manual I would not consider this oil filter schedule.

I also thrive on this subject when two people are posting, and I looking in from the outside.. my phrase is always meet in the middle ground for the most bang for the buck while retaining the safety margin... however in this situation it seems I'm the one in a glass house doing the deed.
 
Spyder, cut open some used filters, they rarely become loaded.

I re-use filters all the time. Also, when I make a cost comparison of dino vs synth, I assume a filter run 5k on dino can be re-used. Sure, if buying fresh clean synth oil and going 10k, a new filter is advisable.
 
it is depend how you drive your car.
I usually do 9000-10,000 miles interval oil change with castrol syntec.

my driving are 99% highway, low RPM, drive speed limit with cruise control on.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Spyder, cut open some used filters, they rarely become loaded.

I re-use filters all the time. Also, when I make a cost comparison of dino vs synth, I assume a filter run 5k on dino can be re-used. Sure, if buying fresh clean synth oil and going 10k, a new filter is advisable.


My last OC I just changed the oil and kept the Mobil 1 EP filter on. The filter is rated for 15k and even with 2 OCs I don't put that many miles on it, so it seemed like a waste to replace it.

20k is a lot of miles on any filter. Even if it doesn't go into bypass, its efficiency is still going to drop considerably over the second 10k.

-Spyder
 
Chrysler switched to owners manuals on CD's last year, to be environmentally friendly.

My brother has a Challanger RT and the manual comes in a box with the car and paper work form the dealer.

Dealer service, keep your receipts, plus all service is logged into dealer connect system by VIN #.

Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello All, To subiedriver: I too do 90%+ highway driving with my Volvo 2.435 I5 non-turbo with Mobil 1 for the recommended 7,500 mile oci. I cut it shorter for any reason at all. In any case the oil has still just begun to pick up "blackness". I'm confident I'm doing the right thing.
To VNTS: I've yet to see a CD owner's manual. How will the owner get his dealer service stamps? Ha-Ha
To Spyder: I agree with you. No way in the world would I ever change oil in anything with out changing the filter too. You can't tell if the media is torn, plugged or simply not "tucked in". There's no percentage in it what-so-ever. Kira
 
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20k is a lot of miles on any filter. Even if it doesn't go into bypass, its efficiency is still going to drop considerably over the second 10k.
fyi. Some of the Amsoil filters are rated to 25k or 1 year. And actually the efficiency of the filter wil tend to increase over the second 10K, ie. filtering finer particles. Though I don't do it with mine, Honda recommends the reuse of any filter, for up to two 1 year OCI's, which could be 20k+ miles.

Back to the topic. I will say that many folks currently doing 3months/3k oil changes, do so unnecessarily and are wasting oil/resources. Since reading and joining this forum, I've gone to 5k or 6 months whichever comes first. Someone once posted a saying I like, "5k is the new 3k". Add to that car bible site picked 5k as a good point of reference for an OCI, and that's what I've chosen except with the Honda which goes closer to the OLM reading or 1 year. Might go a tad longer on miles with dino, and longer months and miles if using synthetic. But that's my general rule of thumb at this point.
 
I prefer to err on the side of 6 mo ocis with a new filter. Try to get an AZ deal,then the filter is "free". Example... My 5 quarts of 5-20 EP with a $13 M1 filter is $38. So the filter is "free" vs. buying when not on sale.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Spyder, wear spikes on fresh oil and is reduced in rate as the oil ages. That is the data from the 3MP study.


Gotcha. New one on me, but the source is credible and its good info to know.

-Spyder


You're not going to insist I "PROVE IT!"
10.gif



Audi's right. Here's a good case study that shows this idea in action. Notice how the wear numbers start dropping after 3k miles. It's funny when you think about it really. All these years everyone thinking 3k mi OCI's was actually more than likely causing more wear than it would have had they ran it out. Anyhow, link...
LINK - click me
 
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