3.6 LFX 2012 Buick LaCrosse

[Danimal1q2w3]

Howdy. Been amazing looking around here last two weeks finally had to make an account. I have a 2012 Buick LaCrosse with the 3.6 LFX. I'm currently at 86k miles and just started doing my own oil changes on it so I can't speak to the quality of my last few changes done at shops but I had a lot of then done at the dealer. I used 5 quarts of full synthetic Valvoline max life and a quart of Pennzoil Platinum that I had already sitting around. Engine appears to be burning about 1qt between changes and I have always gone to what the OLM tells me to do. I am going to do a UOA when the time comes to change this oil but.

But my real question is what would be a recommendation for long OCI with this engine. Am I even able to go long intervals I've read that the DI is really rough on oils and lot of people say they'd be worried to take the OLM down to 0. I'm not afraid to spend a few extra bucks on possibly the Mobil 1 annual protection if it would be safe to do so but my goal is 15-20k OCI.


I've put around 18k miles per year on it. 4 days per week it gets a ten minute drive to work and back and a 20 minute round trip to get my wife from work 4x a week. 90% of the driving done on this vehicle is highway though so I'd imagine this negates the short trips. I live in NY and in the winter before our short trips to work we start the car with the remote starter for 10-20 minutes before we leave so perhaps the engine is reaching proper temp even in the winter.

If I am unable to do extended OCI so be it, but that would definitely be preferable. Thanks guys!

 

[oil_film_movies]

GM has been worried for the past few years about soot generated by their DI engines causing some extra timing chain wear.
There was a study showing that high levels of molybdenum in oil helped with timing chain wear.
On normal dexos1 oils, GM now limits oil change intervals to 7,500 miles, something they started for the 2013 models. The OLM can go off sooner, but not later than 7500 miles.
All that said, and given the study done on timing chain wear from Click This Link for the Paper PDF copy, I'd recommend using Amsoil Signature Series 0w30 due to its high moly content and high TBN, and change at 10,000 miles. About as far as I would go on that engine. Also, a Purolator Boss PBL22500 (amazon.com, rockauto.com, Advance Auto Parts) oil filter is well made (other Purolator types, non-Boss ones, are junk actually) and has the right bypass valve pressure thats sometimes hard to find in an oil filter for the LFX V6. If not that one, a Wix or NapaGold one would be fine too.

 

[A_Harman]

I agree with oil_film_movies; the LFX is not a good candidate for extended oil change intervals due to concerns with DI and timing chain wear. Keep to the factory OLM recommendations. If you really get into the BITOG thing, do a series of UOA's for at least 4 oil change intervals and see what the wear metals, fuel dilution, and soot numbers look like. Then make a decision on extending the change interval.

 

[Danimal1q2w3]

I am using the Mobil 1 extended performance filter... do you think that would not be a good choice

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by Danimal1q2w3
I am using the Mobil 1 extended performance filter... do you think that would not be a good choice
Wait, my bad, I think that is an acceptable oil filter, as your LFX engine does not appear on the list that needs a high bypass threshold:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...f48e-oil-filter-instead-of-pf64-pf48.pdf

In that case, the best oil filter is the Fram Ultra. Better filtering efficiency, dirt capacity, silicone ADBV good, robust, actually according to Fram it could stay on for 20,000 miles. Cheap at walmart or amazon.
Mobil1 oil filter is acceptable. Not as good as a Fram Ultra in construction & efficiency & dirt capacity, but OK.

 

[madeej11]

I know it's cold in Buf but 10-20 minutes warmup time is way too much. Not doing anything to really help except waste fuel. Best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it . Start your car say 2 minutes before at most or install block heater with a timer and set block heater to start a couple of hours before leaving home. You could always use that 10-20 minutes to make your daily drive a bit longer to help get that oil even warmer. This way the engine will have that time under load which is way better than idling. You are no longer under warranty so you could use something like Amsoil SS 5w30 and do a couple of UOA's before stretching your OCI to where you want it to be or where it's safe. The Mobil1 you mentioned is also a good choice for extending OCI.

 

[JeepWJ19]

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by Danimal1q2w3
I am using the Mobil 1 extended performance filter... do you think that would not be a good choice
Wait, my bad, I think that is an acceptable oil filter, as your LFX engine does not appear on the list that needs a high bypass threshold:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...f48e-oil-filter-instead-of-pf64-pf48.pdf

In that case, the best oil filter is the Fram Ultra. Better filtering efficiency, dirt capacity, silicone ADBV good, robust, actually according to Fram it could stay on for 20,000 miles. Cheap at walmart or amazon.
Mobil1 oil filter is acceptable. Not as good as a Fram Ultra in construction & efficiency & dirt capacity, but OK.


If it's only recommended to go 7500 miles, and you were to suggest a Fram brand, I would be going for the Fram TG, JMO.

Edit: don't know if it's a canister or cartridge filter. I am assuming canister.

 

[Danimal1q2w3]

Originally Posted by madeej11
I know it's cold in Buf but 10-20 minutes warmup time is way too much. Not doing anything to really help except waste fuel. Best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it . Start your car say 2 minutes before at most or install block heater with a timer and set block heater to start a couple of hours before leaving home. You could always use that 10-20 minutes to make your daily drive a bit longer to help get that oil even warmer. This way the engine will have that time under load which is way better than idling. You are no longer under warranty so you could use something like Amsoil SS 5w30 and do a couple of UOA's before stretching your OCI to where you want it to be or where it's safe. The Mobil1 you mentioned is also a good choice for extending OCI.


Sorry if I was unclear, I start the car solely for the reason of having my heated seat be nice and toasty when I get in the car, and most of the snow melted off the windows, not to warm the engine. I just figured it would be a helpful bi-product

 

[madeej11]

Those creature comforts are quite costly in the long run. I tend to be a little more frugal than that. Oh well, to each his own. Keep warm...

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by JeepWJ19
If it's only recommended to go 7500 miles, and you were to suggest a Fram brand, I would be going for the Fram TG, JMO. Edit: don't know if it's a canister or cartridge filter. I am assuming canister.
For the mere $3 difference between the awesome performing (its 80% 5 microns!) and well built Ultra vs. a TG, I'd buy the Ultra every time, no matter how often I changed it out. Actually, you could go 10,000 miles or up to 1 year on an oil change with Amsoil SS 0w30 or 5w30 and a Fram Ultra. Makes it more affordable. The OP, Danimal1q2w3, wants to go a little longer, and thats the best way to do it I think.

 

[Danimal1q2w3]

Where is everyone's preferred place to buy Amsoil?

 

[Danimal1q2w3]

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
For the mere $3 difference between the awesome performing (its 80% 5 microns!) and well built Ultra vs. a TG, I'd buy the Ultra every time, no matter how often I changed it out. Actually, you could go 10,000 miles or up to 1 year on an oil change with Amsoil SS 0w30 or 5w30 and a Fram Ultra. Makes it more affordable. The OP, Danimal1q2w3, wants to go a little longer, and thats the best way to do it I think.


Is the Fram hp19 or the Fram ultra the better filter?

 

[madeej11]

Look for Pablo on this site, he'll hook you up. Prices should be decent.

 

[Danimal1q2w3]

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
GM has been worried for the past few years about soot generated by their DI engines causing some extra timing chain wear.
There was a study showing that high levels of molybdenum in oil helped with timing chain wear.
On normal dexos1 oils, GM now limits oil change intervals to 7,500 miles, something they started for the 2013 models. The OLM can go off sooner, but not later than 7500 miles.
All that said, and given the study done on timing chain wear from Click This Link for the Paper PDF copy, I'd recommend using Amsoil Signature Series 0w30 due to its high moly content and high TBN, and change at 10,000 miles. About as far as I would go on that engine. Also, a Purolator Boss PBL22500 (amazon.com, rockauto.com, Advance Auto Parts) oil filter is well made (other Purolator types, non-Boss ones, are junk actually) and has the right bypass valve pressure thats sometimes hard to find in an oil filter for the LFX V6. If not that one, a Wix or NapaGold one would be fine too.


Are there any other oils with high moly, or what about a decent additive? I was hoping to be able to pick up my oil from a Walmart or something

 

[Danimal1q2w3]

After some further reading it would appear that the LFX engines aren't plagued by the timing chain issues. Please correct me if you have information stating otherwise

 

[irv]

As others have said, change your oil out sooner rather than later.
Also, as mentioned, GM changed the OLM frequency to much lower mileage due to timing chain wear issues. From what I understand, most issues predate 2012 models but it is still recommended to do frequent oil/filter changes on this engine rather than extend them.

My wife's 2017 3.6 Impala goes roughly about 5,000 kms before the OLM is down in the 20% range but the majority of her driving is city stop and go traffic.

I just changed the oil and filter this past Monday using a Fram Ultra XG10575 and Pennzoil Platinum fully syn 5W-30 D1G2 oil. When the XG's are used up I will be switching to TG10575 filters as, imo, and others, using the XG's for such low mileage is a waste of money.

To each their own, but I'd recommend doing both the filter and oil at the same time rather than running the filter for 2 or more oil changes.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by Danimal1q2w3
Where is everyone's preferred place to buy Amsoil?
Some car dealerships actually sell it. That is rare though. That stuff is hard to get, as I like just ordering stuff over Amazon or getting it at walmart.
Originally Posted by Danimal1q2w3
After some further reading it would appear that the LFX engines aren't plagued by the timing chain issues. Please correct me if you have information stating otherwise.
Are there any other oils with high moly, or what about a decent additive? I was hoping to be able to pick up my oil from a Walmart or something
Walmart prices are about the best around, no doubt, and they carry the Fram Ultra too. ... If its true the LFX version of the GM 3.6L (post-LLT, which I know had problems with chains off & on) doesn't have problems with the timing chain, then maybe go to Mobil1 Annual Protection or Mobil1 Extended Protection. Annual Protection is supposed to have better anti-oxidants to go the distance. Extended Protection isn't bad either.

Going high moly could be a good approach no matter what the chain's issues might be. If not Amsoil SS, there is another high moly oil that is very good stuff: Schaeffer Supreme 9000 5w30 -- Amazon, still not as easy to get as going to walmart, and more expensive though. Schaeffer should work for the longer oil intervals you want.
One high moly oil that is great yet I wouldn't trust to go over 10,000 miles in this application is Redline 0w30, Amazon.com, they always load up a lot in their oils, and its POE-PAO blends, so good stuff; racers love it too.
Amazon.com's Zepro Touring dexos1 Gen2 5w30 might have a lot of moly; Zepro in 0w20 definitely has a ton of moly, don't know if their 5w30 does too.

Moly additives: LiquiMoly MOS2 at napa or amazon might work in any oil. Normally its best to get a fully formulated oil since the PhD's at the companies look at the balance of chemicals. In this case, the MOS2 product is just moly, nothing else to interfere with what's in your oil, so it might be the best approach. You could dose it gradually as make-up oil or leave a little room below the dipstick to the full line.


Originally Posted by Danimal1q2w3
Is the Fram hp19 or the Fram ultra the better filter?
Fram Ultra better. Ultra is 99.5% 20 microns & HP19 is 94% 20 microns, plus the Ultra depth-filters to 80% 5 microns. .... Some say save $3 and get a Fram Toughguard, although it doesn't have the depth filtering the Ultra has. Ultra scrubs the oil better & nobody else competes with it right now on the market, not even the other more expensive synthetic media oil filters like Royal Purple & Amsoil EaO filters which both have worse 4548-12 performance.

Some people on this forum want to stick to the "value argument" to save money. For that, changing your oil every 7,500 miles with 5w30 full-syn SuperTech (walmart) would work adequately, with a SuperTech oil filter. Saves probably about $20 on one oil change. Not past 7,500 miles though. The value side of things always gets you the cheapest oil that meets dexos1, and SuperTech oil filters are usually OK enough.