3.1L Metal Hose Part Number/Online Parts Look-up

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benjamming

benjamming

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I need the part number for the metal coolant hose shown below. The part has R 61140 on the bracket. It is on a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1L. I have the part number for the fitting with plastic not-quick-disconnect that threads into the lower intake manifold at the thermostat housing & connects to a heater hose.
Also, is there an online site where I can look up part numbers from an exploded parts diagram? That would be really helpful a lot of times (like now). I can do this rather easily for a Honda from many online dealers but I'm not aware of this possiblity with Pontiac (or any GM for that matter).
Thanks.
1994GrandAm31LHeaterHose.jpg
 
No link doesn't take you to what I saw - but do enter your model and go to cooling and you will see the diagram under the cooling hoses section.
 
GMBoy,

I can't find it on gmpartsdirect. I go to cooling hoses, but none of those are the correct one; those are all rubber hoses or are for the 4 cylinder only.

Stu,

That's it! New bookmark.
 
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I don't have the part number handy, but I believe that is the heater inlet (engine out) pipe. I'm confused whether you need the threaded connector or the whole pipe. Pipe is held into the connector with the plastic quick connect. You should be able to get the pipe to separate from the connector. Pipe might be a GM only item.
 
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Off topic but since this thread's question has already been answered, something I always wondered about is how this vin M, J and others has an extra external T-stat/waterpump bypass pipe so near the heater inlet pipe and if this would reduce heater inlet flow? Seems like it could. Also since both the heater outlet and bypass are plumb to the same T-fitting at the water pump inlet that the bypass is robbing the heater oulet's suction. Maybe not because what happens then when the T-stat opens and the waterpump is drawing from the radiator? I'm not sure how it works out.
 
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Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Off topic but since this thread's question has already been answered, something I always wondered about is how this vin M, J and others has an extra external T-stat/waterpump bypass pipe so near the heater inlet pipe and if this would reduce heater inlet flow? Seems like it could. Also since both the heater outlet and bypass are plumb to the same T-fitting at the water pump inlet that the bypass is robbing the heater oulet's suction. Maybe not because what happens then when the T-stat opens and the waterpump is drawing from the radiator? I'm not sure how it works out.


I don't know that it matters much. The heaters work fine on both my GM's with 3100 engines.

Originally Posted By: benjamming
I need the part number for the metal coolant hose shown below. The part has R 61140 on the bracket. It is on a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1L. I have the part number for the fitting with plastic not-quick-disconnect that threads into the lower intake manifold at the thermostat housing & connects to a heater hose.
Also, is there an online site where I can look up part numbers from an exploded parts diagram? That would be really helpful a lot of times (like now). I can do this rather easily for a Honda from many online dealers but I'm not aware of this possiblity with Pontiac (or any GM for that matter).
Thanks.


I don't have any easy way of looking up that pipe, but I'm familiar with it. My '94 Corsica has the same setup. The connector can be bought at Autozone and the like for about $10. Don't know about the pipe- might be dealer or junkyard only.

I got tired of dealing with that connector on my Corsica, and replaced it with a brass fitting: 1/2" NPT X 5/8" compression fitting. It's worked great for years, and will just unbolt when I need to remove the pipe.

On my own vehicle, if that pipe ever rusted through or something, I'd be tempted to just put a 1/2" NPT X 5/8" hose nipple fitting into the intake, then run silicon heater hose to the heater core.
 
Originally Posted By: onion
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Off topic but since this thread's question has already been answered, something I always wondered about is how this vin M, J and others has an extra external T-stat/waterpump bypass pipe so near the heater inlet pipe and if this would reduce heater inlet flow? Seems like it could. Also since both the heater outlet and bypass are plumb to the same T-fitting at the water pump inlet that the bypass is robbing the heater oulet's suction. Maybe not because what happens then when the T-stat opens and the waterpump is drawing from the radiator? I'm not sure how it works out.


I don't know that it matters much. The heaters work fine on both my GM's with 3100 engines.


I don't know if it matters much or not either, but I am curious and my understanding was that external bypasses cause a slower warmup. I think these applications warm up fairly fast but I believe I have seen cars with even smaller engines have better heater operation than these applications seem to have.
 
This '94 Grand Am is slower to heat up than our '02 Accord but there are many other factors in that as well.

Onion,

The only potential problem I see with running hose all the way from the intake to the firewall is keeping it protected from hot metal surfaces. I assume this is why a metal hose was used originally in lieu of what you are proposing? However, silicone would be good me thinks. Dang, you have good ideas though!

I couldn't find the pipe at any auto parts store. The connector is at AutoZone for the same price as the dealer.

It leaks around the plastic connector & can be repeated when removed from the car, filled with water, & turned just horizontal. There is a lot of play between the pipe & the plastic sealing area when connected.

gmpartsdirect is essentially the same price as the local dealer once total costs (shipping & taxes) are figured into the equation.
 
Benjamming, I was also wondering about the heater output and not just warm up time since i've noticed some of them don't put out that good of heat.

Anyway, did you get the pipe from GMPartsdirect which I saw had the lowest online price, or from the dealer yet? I believe the part number Stu_Rock linked you to is correct. Like I mentioned, I think the pipe is held into the threaded coupler with the plastic quick connect. If you work at it the pipe should come out of the coupler and you can get just a new coupler which should have a new quick connecter installed. It seals with an oring on the pipe and I think a new oring also comes with the coupler. Although it probably be easiest to just get a new pipe and coupler from the dealer.
 
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I ordered from the local dealer since they were the same price (essentially) as online. I hope to have it Monday but there were no promises.

Oh, I've taken this part off several times. The problem is that the quick disconnect crumbles after it has been installed for a while so that was the reason for my sarcastic description of the piece (reason I bought a new year last year in the first place). 1 year is not sufficient time to destroy the plastic piece at least in my case.

The coupler is ~ 1 year old. The pipe has certainly failed. It has almost eroded through where it connects. That is why there is so much play.
 
Oh OK makes good sense. Those connectors might be quick connect when assembled new like on the assembly line, but they are definitely not quick disconnect.
 
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