Just another good engine offering from Toyota. Change oil with approved oil/certs.. at 5K intervals and sleep easy.
2GR-FE is pretty easy on oil I guess...
- Thread starter Oldwolf
- Start date
I see this thread was moved,,,no worries!
I'm approaching 206,000 miles on my 2012 Rav4 V6 (2GR-FE) and it has not used any oil between 5-6K changes.
I hope that doesn't mean that all of the deposits were left in the engine! 
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
With M1 0W40, no.I hope that doesn't mean that all of the deposits were left in the engine!
I tracked that oil in BMW, hitting 300°F oil temperature on track, and still did 5k OCI.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
This is old EP. I think there was a bit of oxidation, but nothing consequential as there was enough TBN left.
I usually do TAN, not sure why I didn’t do that time.
I've run almost exclusively M1 0w-20 EP in my 2013 2GR-FE with 10k oil and filter changes without any issues in about 110k miles. Does not leak or consume any oil. I do not accelerate quickly from stops, but don't baby it either, but once rolling I do drive swiftly. Please keep right except to pass, thank you. I do not drive aggressively but I know where the speed limiter is programmed at.
You drive like I do. Only difference is my 5k/1yr oci interval. Another year or two and I'll need to start thinking about spark plugs. 
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Ouch!You drive like I do. Only difference is my 5k/1yr oci interval. Another year or two and I'll need to start thinking about spark plugs.
Plugs on a 2GR aren’t a big deal, overall. You might have to remove the wiper cowl.
If you gently gently lift up on the connector housing latch, rather than pushing down on the release tab, you should be able to get them off without cracking them. I would note that for many of the coils, you can probably keep them attached to the connector, and remove them from the plug. Just undo the 10mm and pull the whole thing up. That should work for at least the back bank.
If you gently gently lift up on the connector housing latch, rather than pushing down on the release tab, you should be able to get them off without cracking them. I would note that for many of the coils, you can probably keep them attached to the connector, and remove them from the plug. Just undo the 10mm and pull the whole thing up. That should work for at least the back bank.
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The manual says 120k for spark plug change, so I'll be due soon. Will probably go with NGK Laser Iridium but the Ruthenium in intriguing.You drive like I do. Only difference is my 5k/1yr oci interval. Another year or two and I'll need to start thinking about spark plugs.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
They are generally not. But in Sienna rear bank is deep inside.
Is it better to clean a PCV or replace? I've never done anything to mine, but don't have any issues either...
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Don’t do anything. 2GR-FE is excellent engine, minus that timing cover leak which can really ruin your wallet.
Patman
Staff member
PCV valves aren’t very expensive so you might as well change it. That being said I am still on the original PCV valve in my Civic with 168,000 miles on it. I will probably replace it later this year though.
I used to buy new PCV valves when they were plastic (older vehicles), and before I realised you could clean the metal ones on Toyotas, I haven't bought one since 2014? There is no need, remove, spray with brake clean, hold both ends with your finger/thumb, shake, and repeat 2-3 times and re-install and torque to spec.
You drive like I do. Only difference is my 5k/1yr oci interval. Another year or two and I'll need to start thinking about spark plugs.
I do not know about the Sienna as I don't own one, but the spark plugs are very easy to do in the Sedan configuration. I would follow carcarenut's video on Youtube for any guidance if needed.
It's actually not that bad pulling the intake and throttle body off (I'm assuming the Sienna's engine bay is similar to my Rav4. I've done it 3 times now on my 2012. And yes, these engine are pretty easy on oil.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
It is very deep under the windshield. Basically, the end of the windshield covers those three cylinders.
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