'24 Ford Transit 250 3.5 Castrol GTX HM 7800 miles

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So my goal was to try and stretch Castrol GTX HM to 10000 miles in my Ford Transit 250 with the 3.5 GTDI and 12 quart oil capacity.

I still haven't gotten the VOA back from the batch of oil I used for the change but the fact that the viscosity is out of grade is alarming.

Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks 😁


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It did shear out of 20 weight territory, but otherwise looks good. What did your OLM say? The one on my ‘21 will routinely allow 9500 mile OCIs, although I don’t push it that far. Like Blackstone says, you may still be in break-in territory at 10K. The 3.5 in mine is the best engine I’ve had is the 3 company Transits I’ve had-but the 10R80 is the worst transmission I’ve ever had to deal with-couldn’t recommend it to anyone…:poop:
 
It did shear out of 20 weight territory, but otherwise looks good. What did your OLM say? The one on my ‘21 will routinely allow 9500 mile OCIs, although I don’t push it that far. Like Blackstone says, you may still be in break-in territory at 10K. The 3.5 in mine is the best engine I’ve had is the 3 company Transits I’ve had-but the 10R80 is the worst transmission I’ve ever had to deal with-couldn’t recommend it to anyone…:poop:
I used GTX GM 5w30 so (im a newb) it looks like it sheared down to a 20w?

OLM was at 47%, it was def pushing me towards a 15000 oci.

Was trying to use a semi-syn since thats the factory fill and i can save a bit of money buying the 12qt garage boxes vs full synthetic.

A little dissapointed i must say. Vehicle currently has 8000 miles on the oil, also Castrol GTX HM, will change it out at 10,000 miles with 20,000 on vehicle and see what the results come back as.
 
Blackstone always underestimates fuel dilution, but the flashpoint isn't that low, so the oil probably sheared thinned quite a bit as well. I wouldn't worry about the oil ending up as a thick 20 grade though. With that huge sump, your oil temperature will probably never get high enough for the oil to get dangerously thin. You could try a more shear-stable oil such as PP or PUP if you want the viscosity to hold up better.

Wear metals look great for such a fresh engine. TBN held up very well, as expected considering the huge sump capacity. I wouldn't hesitate to go 10k miles, or even longer if service schedule allows for it.

Phosphorus is well below the minimum API spec of 600 ppm. It will be interesting to see what it is on the VOA.
 
Blackstone always underestimates fuel dilution, but the flashpoint isn't that low, so the oil probably sheared thinned quite a bit as well. I wouldn't worry about the oil ending up as a thick 20 grade though. With that huge sump, your oil temperature will probably never get high enough for the oil to get dangerously thin. You could try a more shear-stable oil such as PP or PUP if you want the viscosity to hold up better.

Wear metals look great for such a fresh engine. TBN held up very well, as expected considering the huge sump capacity. I wouldn't hesitate to go 10k miles, or even longer if service schedule allows for it.

Phosphorus is well below the minimum API spec of 600 ppm. It will be interesting to see what it is on the VOA.
Service schedule is 15000 miles. Severe use service schedule is 7500 miles. The vehicle isnt thrashed and doesnt tow so i thought a 10000 oci would be safe, i wouldn't push it to 15000 miles ever, probably not even on full synthetic.

One of my other options would be to try QS Full Synthetic?
 
One of my other options would be to try QS Full Synthetic?
It seems like a better oil than the Castrol to me. Unlike the Castrol, it meets Dexos1 Gen3. It's got a much lower pour point and much higher flashpoint, so it probably uses higher quality base stocks. Its viscosity is quite a bit higher as well, so it will probably end up thicker even if it shears.
 
I used GTX GM 5w30 so (im a newb) it looks like it sheared down to a 20w?

OLM was at 47%, it was def pushing me towards a 15000 oci.

Was trying to use a semi-syn since thats the factory fill and i can save a bit of money buying the 12qt garage boxes vs full synthetic.

A little dissapointed i must say. Vehicle currently has 8000 miles on the oil, also Castrol GTX HM, will change it out at 10,000 miles with 20,000 on vehicle and see what the results come back as.

Did you do the oil change or did the dealership/shop? I ask because the dealer may have used 20w oil.
 
It seems like a better oil than the Castrol to me. Unlike the Castrol, it meets Dexos1 Gen3. It's got a much lower pour point and much higher flashpoint, so it probably uses higher quality base stocks. Its viscosity is quite a bit higher as well, so it will probably end up thicker even if it shears.
I see the data sheets about the pour point and flash points, but I thought that Castrol GTX HM was supposed to have a fairly high viscosity. On Castrol website it says 11.7 cst? The whole reason besides cost that I selected this oil is that it waa supposed to be higher then average viscosity.
 
So my goal was to try and stretch Castrol GTX HM to 10000 miles in my Ford Transit 250 with the 3.5 GTDI and 12 quart oil capacity.

I still haven't gotten the VOA back from the batch of oil I used for the change but the fact that the viscosity is out of grade is alarming.

Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks 😁


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So… can’t say that my sample was in grade either, but at least it didn’t start as a 30 and dilute/shear to a 20. My HPL No VII Euro 5w30 at 14.4k mile OCI actually thickened up a little into a thin 40 grade but GC said fuel was <1%. You’d need to pick a different OA company like OAI, WearCheck, etc that uses gas chromatography to know fuel dilution for sure.

Considering the issues that the 3.5 is known to have with phasers, guides, and chain wear, my choice is to have a 30 grade that becomes a 40 grade, rather than every 30 grade that becomes a 20, or every other 40 grade that’s been turned into a 30 in these engines based on reviewing UOAs posted to the board. Since you’re already well into 20 grade territory I would change it out ASAP… no way I’d keep running a thin oil in these, it’s asking for long-term problems and costly repairs.

Thanks for the UOA!
 
I see the data sheets about the pour point and flash points, but I thought that Castrol GTX HM was supposed to have a fairly high viscosity. On Castrol website it says 11.7 cst? The whole reason besides cost that I selected this oil is that it waa supposed to be higher then average viscosity.
The first link google gave me for a GTX HM 5W-30 data sheet was this, direct from the Castrol website, indicating a KV100 of 10.1 cST. I do see the other data sheet as well indicating 11.7 cST, dated a few months later. The fine print indicates that this one comes from Castrol Canada.

PQIA tested GTX HM 5W-30 oil a few years ago at 10.7 cST.

Castrol doesn't do a very good job with their data sheets in general and I don't trust them very much. I really doubt that the oil you used started out at 11.7 cST.
 
Looks like this is a 30 grade oil? Perhaps the Edge HM is another option. Full Synthetic product.
 
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The first link google gave me for a GTX HM 5W-30 data sheet was this, direct from the Castrol website, indicating a KV100 of 10.1 cST. I do see the other data sheet as well indicating 11.7 cST, dated a few months later. The fine print indicates that this one comes from Castrol Canada.

PQIA tested GTX HM 5W-30 oil a few years ago at 10.7 cST.

Castrol doesn't do a very good job with their data sheets in general and I don't trust them very much. I really doubt that the oil you used started out at 11.7 cST.
Well, I guess the next step will be to pull the Castrol at 10000, send out for testing and replace with the Quaker State FS.

I really thought I would be good considering Ford changed from a 5w20 to 5w30, doubled the oil capacity, and is recommended 15000 oci with Motorcraft semi-syn.

To see the Castrol out of grade at 7800 miles is a huge let down to me.
 
Looks great - low metals and lots of TBN left. Would not worry about the shearing; lots of oils/engines do that. Will definitely make it to 10k.
 
Wear rates are fine; nothing to worry about there.

The application (Transit) is very low stress on the engine; they downrate the tuning in the vans well below the F-series HP/Torque levels. Hence, the engines in these vans aren't worked hard no matter how much you throttle it.
 
You pay big money for a new vehicle and sponge on the oil choices. Use full synthetic instead.
I'm not sponging. Even at 10000 miles I would be changing my oil every 5 weeks.

My old chevy van I was doing 6 quarts full synthetic every 3 weeks.
 
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