advice 02 civic motomaster 5w30 9222km 264482km

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This is my first post here, I have read and learned a lot from this site over the years and finally decided to become a member and contribute myself. figured i would post my oil analysis first. this is kind of my experiment car and input would be appreciated. input would be greatly appreciated and i will put what i have done with and am trying to accomplish with this car below the analysis report. if you don't mind reading that part before making suggestions that would be great! blackstone notes: Wow, you ran this oil longer than the last one and still got excellent wear. Better than last time around, and we thought the last sample looked great. The PC (no charge, sorry again about last time) read clean at 14/14/11, so your oil filtration set-up is working well. You also had a TBN and a TAN done, and those both came back all right. The TBN shows lots of active additive left - more than last time - and the TAN shows an acceptable amount of acidity in the oil. Any TAN less than 7 is fine. No moisture or fuel was present in the oil. Try 10,000-11,000 km next time! (by the way, this code thing is maddening, i spent an hour trying to line everything up and it still looks horrendous. no wonder not many people post them like this.)
Code:
MAKE/MODEL: Honda 1.7L (D17) 
FUEL TYPE: Gasoline (Unleaded) 
ADDITIONAL INFO: 
OIL TYPE & GRADE: motomaster 5w30
OIL USE INTERVAL: 9222km

 
 
	MI/HR on Oil 	9,222 		8,220		UNIVERSAL AVERAGES 	   
 	MI/HR on Unit 	264,482 UNIT / 	236,207 					 	   
 	Sample Date 	6/4/2015 Location 4/24/2014			 	   
 	Make Up Oil Added 0.317 ltrs AVERAGES 0 qts 					 	   
 										   
 	ALUMINUM 	2 	3 	4 				3 	   
 	CHROMIUM 	0 	1 	1 				1 	   
 	IRON 	         4        6        8 				8 	   
 	COPPER 	         2 	2 	2 				4 	   
 	LEAD 	         1 	1 	1 				4 	   
 	TIN 	         0 	0 	0 				1 	   
 	MOLYBDENUM 	76 	67 	57 				82 	   
 	NICKEL 	         1 	1 	0 				0 	   
 	MANGANESE 	0 	1 	1 				0 	   
 	SILVER 	         0 	0 	0 				0 	   
 	TITANIUM 	0 	0 	0 				1 	   
 	POTASSIUM 	0 	2 	3 				4 	   
 	BORON 	        124 	86 	48 				42 	   
 	SILICON     	7 	10 	12 				11 	   
 	SODIUM   	104 	118 	132 				44 	   
 	CALCIUM  	2046 	2187 	2328 				2129 	   
 	MAGNESIUM 	8 	12 	16 				147 	   
 	PHOSPHORUS 	758 	756 	754 				706 	   
 	ZINC     	 848 	869 	889 				835 	   
	BARIUM    	0 	0 	0 				0 	

 
 	 
 	SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 	54.1 	56-63 	52.1 			 	ISO CODE (2) 	14/11 	   
 	cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 	8.50 	9.1-11.3 	7.92 			 	NAS 1638 Class 	6 	   
 	Flashpoint in °F 	395 	>365 	420 			 	ISOCODE (3) 	14/14/11 	   
 	Fuel % 	<0.5 	<2.0 	<0.5 			 	>= 2 Micron 303 	   
 	Antifreeze % 	0.0 	0.0 	0.0 			 >= 5 Micron 112 	   
 	Water % 	0.0 	<0.1 	0.0 			 >= 10 Micron 31 	   
 	Insolubles % 	0.1 	<0.6 	0.3 			 >= 15 Micron 12 	   
 	TBN 	5.6 	>1.0 	2.8 			 	>= 25 Micron 2 	   
 	TAN 	4.8 		5.0 			 	>= 50 Micron 0 	   
 	ISO Code 	14/14/11 				>= 100 Micron 0 	 
 
 
So this is an newer/old civic m/t and not worth investing in but i used to be doing all this stuff on another car that is actually enjoyable to drive- a 1993 ford Festiva with 420,000km. but then i got married and had kids and needed 'something more reliable'. this is now my 4th of the 7th generation Honda civic because they are unreliable and my daily driver is the festiva again since its only ever let me down twice in 8 years and over 200k. but, all this junk is now on my civic: amsoil bypass filter BMK 13, IPR full flow coolant filter (long story), mechanical water temperature gauge ( the stock ones on 7th gen civics don't go over half no matter how hot they get, thats 1/2 the reason why everyone blows head gaskets without knowing it), oil temp gauge, vaccume guage, oil pressure guage, tow hitch roof rack and local mountains for when i want to be hard on it. so, one day i was going camping through the mountains with my wife and kid with the car fully loaded, couple of bikes on the back and a full massive very un-aerodynamic roof rack on the top. the roof rack slowed the car down a lot and while i didn't drive it hard 5th gear was only for downhill. i pulled over at a rest stop and shut the car off, 5-10 min later decided to check the oil. popped the hood and got hit with this massive heat wave from the engine. the dipstick was so hot it nearly burned my finger and i think the plastic even deformed when i pulled it out. then all the oil fell right off my dipstick when i got it out. you know how when you drip a small amount of water onto a sloped oily floor and the water stays in a bead and basically flies right off the oil? thats what it was like when the oil fell off the dipstick. that, and having a previous civic with an intermittently working rad fan that would overheat, boil the coolant, blow the overflow cap right off and shoot coolant everywhere all while my temp guage was under half is what caused me to get into all this with a civic. the reason for the oil analysis part is Honda telling people they can do 16k oci's and 32k filter intervals on dino oil. i believed in 7000km oci's max on gas engines with dino oil 2 years ago, my believes have changed a lot but i still doubt 16k... so, i got this first oil analysis done the following winter when i changed the oil. it is motomaster 5w20 by the way. right after that i made the decision that for this specific car and my specific requirements of it and what i use it for i should go with a 5w30 instead. i do NOT believe the typical civic in Canada needs 5w30. anyway, first analysis i had a misunderstanding with Blackstone and thought than a TAN of 5 was high, hence the not so much longer second run. they now have told me that anything under 7 is fine. smirk so i had to wait till the 5w20 i had already put in there was used up and then i put motomaster 5w30 in. finished that oil change and this is the second 5w30 change that i got analyzed here. i ran it from February to June but we had a very very warm winter, not very many days below -25c. so thats the main difference other than starting viscosity. the 5w20 was during the middle of winter with under -30c being common. I only towed a trailer a few times on this last oil change, maybe 8 hours total on the highway is it. installed the oil temp guage about half way through this last oil change and the hottest sustained temp was 230f. so not hot but we hadn't had anything above + 20c ambient temperature yet and no heavy trailers, roof racks or mountains in this one. so, can anyone educate me on why the 30 weight sheared into a 20 weight when presumably the 20 weight didn't shear much? unless motomasters 20 weight is really heavy and the 30 weight is really light. does oil oxidize more in cold winters with lots of road salt and thicken up whereas it just shears and thins in the summer? the flash point is a bit lower on the 30 weight but without the VOA numbers i cant conclude that there was more fuel thinning it out. so if someone can explain that to me or post links to something informative about that i would appreciate it. also the air filters in these cars have design issues (as does most of the rest of the mechanical design of the car). thats discussed in other threads here, so i will just say i went with the recommended filter. filters for these civics are recommended based on the gaskets ability to seal or not rather than on filter media performance... every uoa i have seen for a 7th gen civic has a medium-high silicon count. i had the Honda filter in on the first analysis and switched to the recommended denso before this second analysis. i believe (i would have to look at all the uoa's i copied again) that this 7 ppm of silicon is the lowest i have seen for a 7th gen civic! not that a 5 ppm difference based only on one oil change means much but it made me happy, some VOA's i have seen have 7 ppm silicon. the TAN this time is pretty high, could be because of no road salt and less oxidation because its not winter but i also added 300ml of oil 2 weeks/1000km before the oil change. i had a badly leaking fitting, the engine doesn't burn oil. i know that adding oil boosts TBN a lot (thats the only reason people go a million miles or 200,000 miles on the 'same oil' they changed 25 times) but 300ml in a 4.2L sump is only 7%, it wouldn't boost it all that much would it? (4.2L because of the bypass filter) any thoughts on this? I realized after doing it that the particle count isn't the most accurate thing from Blackstone, but whatever. i wanted to see what my bypass filter was doing after 181,500 km and like 5 years. apparently not much. still seemed to flow but i never checked how it flowed when i first bought it. i installed a new one after this oil change and will analyze it to see if there is a difference, hopefully much better. when i cut apart the bypass filter it was pretty nasty. based on the particle count and having a 4.2L sump i had 802,200 particles between 2-5um in size 340,200 particles between 5-10um 79,800 10-15um 42,000 15-25um 8,400 25-50microns. for having a filter thats supposed to be 98.7% efficient at 2 microns that ticks me off but it did have over 180k on it... and Blackstone analyzes like 10ml of oil to get the particle count right? plus its the pore block method... there, i comforted myself. smirk so, i am thinking of going 13,000km this oil change, what do y'all think? farther? shorter? and why? smile the shear worries me a bit but this car specs 20 weight anyway. i can monitor it a bit with my oil pressure guage and oil temp, the sheared 5w30 was giving me about 3-5psi less than the new 5w30 at the same temps and rpms, so i can watch it. i will be hauling a trailer now and then and do at least one fully loaded trip with a bike rack and rooftop carrier through the mountains on this oil change. i was going to keep going with the dino to find out exactly what it could do and if i could match the crazy 16k Honda recommendation which i don't believe is attainable safely and repeatedly. i know i am considered severe service but this is summer, i have 31% larger sump capacity, bypass filter, i drive almost all highway miles, no short trips, and while i load it up and tow i don't drive it hard. it almost never sees full throttle and i speed up and slow down gently. it sees 5500rpm and full throttle maybe 6 times per oil change. i don't believe most cars need synthetic, i think any cheap car can have 6k oci's with dino and last just as long as on synthetic. but an amsoil dealer offered me his signature series for really cheap, and i cant turn that down. he wants me to start on it right away and see how much better than dino it is smile so after this its synthetic! see if i can do the 1 year oci's then. but unfortunately/fortunately this will be the last oil change on dino so i want to be sure i know actually how far it can go for a fair cost comparison to amsoil synthetic. ideally i would have like 5 or 6 oil analysis of dino oil first for the comparison to be fair but this isn't my daily driver and i am not as patient as some other members here, especially when offered synthetic for cheap.
 
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How long will it take you to put 13,000Km on the car? I'm asking that because a 5W30 could end up 10W30 by the time winter comes. I can't tell you what to do, or recommend an engine oil. But I can tell you what I would do, and you can take it from there. From now to November 1st, 10W30 HDMO CJ-4/SN. From November 1st to April 1st 0W30 Euro or SN low saps. Either of those oils could go 20,000 km without playing home chemist.
 
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The uoas look great! better than my 60000km 2011 versa with pp in it. I only go 6000km though but I bet you could go 13000 if you made sure it didn't thicken for winter like previously said.
 
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Biggest factor for extending your OCI is the type of driving you do. Synthetic or conventional will all be limited with severe service, synthetic having the edge. Personally I'd stick with the conventional and more frequent changes. As you fall into the severe service category I'd look at changing oil in the 6-7500km mileage range with a Fram Ultra used twice. If sticking with conventional maybe try QSAD, on sale at CT now $16.79 for a 5L jug. You seem happy with the 5w30 considering your use and the "comfort" factor it adds, so stick with it. I'd go another way with a 5w20 and UOA just for comparison. The vehicle has a limited towing weight that Honda takes into account, along with other factors when selecting oil weight. Cheers and welcome!!!!
 
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You bring up a good point with the M1 0w40. Maybe the op can look at a Caterham blend 50/50 of m1 0w40 and TGMO 0w20. The resulting high vi 5w30 would provide an excellent balance of protection, longevity and efficiency..
 
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The 10W30 I was thinking about has a HTHS of >3.6 The 0W40 I had in mind >3.7 When you blend your own, or play Richard Pryor home chemist, it's like a box of chocolates. You never know what your gonna get.
 

Festiva_Man

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Originally Posted By: used_0il
How long will it take you to put 13,000Km on the car? I'm asking that because a 5W30 could end up 10W30 by the time winter comes. I can't tell you what to do, or recommend an engine oil. But I can tell you what I would do, and you can take it from there. From now to November 1st, 10W30 HDMO CJ-4/SN. From November 1st to April 1st 0W30 Euro or SN low saps. Either of those oils could go 20,000 km without playing home chemist.
it took 4 months to get to 9222km, i am assuming it would take 5-5 1/2 months to get to 13,000km. we drive it a bit more in the summer. why would the base oil weight thicken up over time? from oxidation? and wouldn't it become more like 10w20? i just haven't heard of that before so if you don't mind explaining or posting a link that explains it i would appreciate that. with switching to synthetic i am hoping i can do one year oil change intervals. the car does roughly 30,000km/yr. if amsoil cant do that i may go to a summer/winter weight and do 2/yr with a cheaper brand. i never thought about using heavy duty oil, i always assumed they had a different additive package for diesel engines that weren't optimum for gas engines. i will have to look into that more, thanks for the suggestion. they would most likely have a higher HTHV rating than a pcmo. your talking about synthetics still for 20,000km oci's right? i looked briefly at Caterham's blend before and i am not interested in mixing oils. i am also of the opinion that 40 weight would not be ideal for this car and my driving, even 0w40. the car is spec'd for 5w20 and from what i have read the bearing clearances are very small compared to a heavy duty diesel. also for proper vtec operation you cant mess with viscosity too much. it takes about 25-30 minutes of highway driving for the oil to reach operating temperature on this car-which is about 212f. it takes probably 45min to get to 220 if i start driving 115km/hr once i reach the highway where i can do that. most of our driving is in the 1/2hr-1hr range and we normally go through a couple towns which cool off the oil quick. on long drives (2hrs or more) pulling a trailer thats empty or not too heavy the oil temp stays at 220f if i do 100km/hr and 230f if i do 110-120km/hr. i haven't done any towing on hills or with a heavy trailer since getting the oil temp guage so i don't know about that yet. to to compare oils this is how i would rate them on wear relative to each other to the best of my current knowledge. 10 being high and 1 being low wear: easy use 5w20: startup 4, warmup 2, op temp 5, high temp 6 0w30: startup 4, warmup 3, op temp 2, high temp 3 5w30: startup 6, warmup 3, op temp 2, high temp 3 10w30:startup 8, warmup 4, op temp 2, high temp 3 5w40: startup 8, warmup 6, op temp 5, high temp 2 0w40: startup 4, warmup 6, op temp 5, high temp 2 higher throttle/load other than startup 5w20: startup 5, warmup 3, op temp 6, high temp 9 0w30: startup 4, warmup 5, op temp 3, high temp 4 5w30: startup 6, warmup 5, op temp 3, high temp 4 10w30:startup 8, warmup 6, op temp 3, high temp 4 5w40: startup 8, warmup 7, op temp 4, high temp 1 0w40: startup 4, warmup 7, op temp 4, high temp 1 the majority of my driving is in the warmup stage if you average winter and summer together and if warmup is oil temp of 50-190f, op temp is 190-220, high temp is 220-250. i drive the car easy while its warming up unless im towing because there is nothing i can do about that. towing, mountains and high temps are infrequent in the big picture. warmup is most common, seconded by op temp and then startup. so based on that i would optimally select a high vi 0w30 oil for the least amount of wear. would you agree with what i think or not? i am not as familiar with synthetics and i am applying some of my knowledge of non-syns to synthetics. that being that the viscosity improvers activate around 120f and that the farther apart the 2 numbers are the faster and more significantly the oil shears both permanently and temporarily while going through high shear locations. is this also true for synthetics?
 
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Festiva_Man

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Originally Posted By: Roob
Biggest factor for extending your OCI is the type of driving you do. Synthetic or conventional will all be limited with severe service, synthetic having the edge. Personally I'd stick with the conventional and more frequent changes. As you fall into the severe service category I'd look at changing oil in the 6-7500km mileage range with a Fram Ultra used twice. If sticking with conventional maybe try QSAD, on sale at CT now $16.79 for a 5L jug. You seem happy with the 5w30 considering your use and the "comfort" factor it adds, so stick with it. I'd go another way with a 5w20 and UOA just for comparison. The vehicle has a limited towing weight that Honda takes into account, along with other factors when selecting oil weight. Cheers and welcome!!!!
yup, thats what i am trying to figure out. that what i have done all my lif and would keep doing if i hadnt seen hodas crazy reccomendation of 16k oci's and been offered synthetic for cheap. ok, why would you change it more often than i have been? hondas severe service reccomendation is 8,000km. and i have cut apart frams and i wouldnt use them myself, just a personal preferance. i am using an oversized wix filter for 2 oil changes currently. my first oil analysis was on 5w20 and based on what i saw when it was hot i chose 5w30. honda's choice of reccomended oil is based on what they believe most people will do with the car and fuel economy. the best for fuel economy is 0w20, most people drive shorter trips and dont get over operating temps so 5w20 would be far superior. civics are not reccomended for towing in north america. in australia they have a rating of 1800 pounds unbraked and 2300 pounds braked trailer weight roughly. these engines were also designed right at the time or just before oil grade weight reccomendations were switched. some honda engines of this era were originally speced for 5w30 and then it was switched to 5w20 with no changes in engine design. i would be much more wary of doing this with a newer car. but this is a 2002.
 

Festiva_Man

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Originally Posted By: abycat
The uoas look great! better than my 60000km 2011 versa with pp in it. I only go 6000km though but I bet you could go 13000 if you made sure it didn't thicken for winter like previously said.
thanks! why the short oil changes with synthetic? from my reading on this website with normal driving you see higher levels of metal in the analysis with shorter oci's.
 
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Festiva; I'm not making recommendations on, or what to do, I'm just saying what I would do with my $84.00 in Canadian Tire money. The 10W30 I use 90% of the time is Pet-Can Duron CJ-4/SN. I do UOAs locally 18-24 months apart for a few different vehicles, $22.00 taxes in. A 20L pail of 0W40 will set you back $150.00, and it's not a grade you want to buy at a gas station with a 50% mark-up. (Plus the carbon and 8% sales tax your new premier is working on as we speak.) You can get -40 C/F where you live even in March, so in my opinion 5WXX won't cut it. Shannow has posted that the "W" grade, can and is allowed to "slip"a grade in use, so what started off as 5WXX may be 10WXX towards the end of your oci. If you buy into that program, then a fresh 5W30 conventional could have better cold weather performance than an aged synthetic 5W30 engine oil. If you are going to try once a year oil changes, it would make sense then, to change the oil as late as you dare into November. (Now that you left your name up on the UOA sheet, expect 50 boutique oil dealers to call you in the next day or two.)
 
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Festiva_Man

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Originally Posted By: used_0il
Festiva; I'm not making recommendations on, or what to do, I'm just saying what I would do with my $84.00 in Canadian Tire money. The 10W30 I use 90% of the time is Pet-Can Duron CJ-4/SN. I do UOAs locally 18-24 months apart for a few different vehicles, $22.00 taxes in. A 20L pail of 0W40 will set you back $150.00, and it's not a grade you want to buy at a gas station with a 50% mark-up. (Plus the carbon and 8% sales tax your new premier is working on as we speak.) You can get -40 C/F where you live even in March, so in my opinion 5WXX won't cut it. Shannow has posted that the "W" grade, can and is allowed to "slip"a grade in use, so what started off as 5WXX may be 10WXX towards the end of your oci. If you buy into that program, then a fresh 5W30 conventional could have better cold weather performance than an aged synthetic 5W30 engine oil. If you are going to try once a year oil changes, it would make sense then, to change the oil as late as you dare into November. (Now that you left your name up on the UOA sheet, expect 50 boutique oil dealers to call you in the next day or two.)
perfect. how do i delete that? i cant seem to find a way. ok, i misunderstood, i thought you were saying what you would do if you were me with my car. where do you get it done local? lets not talk about the premier, 8% pst is the least of my worries with her... mad ok, never having used a synthetic i have never experienced any better than a 5Wxx i do have a 100watt oil pan heater that i plug into my block heater timer with the block heater when it gets colder than -20c or so. makes it like starting in summer! approved thanks, i will look through his posts, any idea what the subject of the thread was where he talked about that? yes, ideally i would change the oil early november if once a year works. i was going with motomaster conventional because it regularly goes on sale for $15/5L at can tire. my idea is either the cheapest that works or the best, not in between so much. if amsoil cant safely do once a year oci's then either i will go with the cheapest syn i can find and do twice a year or back to cheap conventional 3 times a year. thank you for your input!
 
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You have it right. I'm saying what I would do, while at the same time trying not to give advice like some do. There must be a balanced and pragmatic approach to all of this engine oil talk. At the end of the day, after you read through the posts and opinions, you go with your gut feelings. Call it intuition or an educated guess. As far as I can tell, all those 5W30 and other grade SN/GF-5 engine oils are clones, with the extended or high mileage variants playing at the higher end of their grade scales. I'm not ga ga over synthetics, for one reason..the term was reduced to marketing instead of fact in court, and secondly, I fail to see the point of synthetics in warm weather. I told you mine, now you tell me yours. What is your intuition telling you? Throw out some of that caution that is wrapped up (but not very well hidden) in your story and let us know what you are really thinking.
 

Festiva_Man

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i dont know enough to go based on a gut feeling and call it smart, so i am trying to learn from others so i can make better choices. i realize some synthetics are not synthetics so if you want a real sythetic you would have to do some searching to find which ones are group5. i think the benefit of synthetics in the summer is that they still flow faster at startup and during warmup. any oil is still too thick when you start your car even in +35c ambient temps. and it takes a long time for the oil to heat up. +25c ambient temp it still takes 25 min to reach operating temps and become the correct viscosity. the effect of having the incorrect viscosity for the first 20 min of driving may be a lot, negligable, or none at all, but i dont know for sure which. what i am really thinking in regards to what? i think if i used the cheapest dino 5w30 with 6000km oci's my engine would not wear out. i know that from doing it to my festiva and it has 420,000km and doesnt burn oil or go black. but based on my curiosity on hondas 16k recomendation, not wanting to do oil changes on 2 cars every 3 months and being offered cheap synthetic i am experimenting. while i am experimenting i may as well learn as much as i can and get the most out of it right?
 
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Originally Posted By: Festiva_Man
i dont know enough to go based on a gut feeling and call it smart, so i am trying to learn from others so i can make better choices. i realize some synthetics are not synthetics so if you want a real sythetic you would have to do some searching to find which ones are group5. i think the benefit of synthetics in the summer is that they still flow faster at startup and during warmup. any oil is still too thick when you start your car even in +35c ambient temps. and it takes a long time for the oil to heat up. +25c ambient temp it still takes 25 min to reach operating temps and become the correct viscosity. the effect of having the incorrect viscosity for the first 20 min of driving may be a lot, negligable, or none at all, but i dont know for sure which. what i am really thinking in regards to what? i think if i used the cheapest dino 5w30 with 6000km oci's my engine would not wear out. i know that from doing it to my festiva and it has 420,000km and doesnt burn oil or go black. but based on my curiosity on hondas 16k recomendation, not wanting to do oil changes on 2 cars every 3 months and being offered cheap synthetic i am experimenting. while i am experimenting i may as well learn as much as i can and get the most out of it right?
Firstly don't get caught up in this nonsense about synthetics aren't rwally synthetics diatribe. It's the finished formulation that matters and not one single component. Secondly if you want to extend the interval I suggest picking an oil and sticking with it and get a few used oil analysis done to confirm you aren't running it too long. Other than that rock on. I run 10000 mile intervals in everything on the cheapest syns I can find. No difference in engine life nor cleanliness as compared to running Amsoil exclusively for a decade prior to my switch to on sale syns.
 
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I don't mean to be rude, but you are over-thinking this, and making it WAY more complex than it needs to be. Those are fantastic results for 9k km on an inexpensive conventional oil; Honda Civic engines in general are very easy on oil. Just buy whatever 5W-30 is on sale, and run it 6 months, that will be about 14-15k km, which is totally do-able with this engine. Done.
 

Festiva_Man

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Originally Posted By: Clevy
Firstly don't get caught up in this nonsense about synthetics aren't rwally synthetics diatribe. It's the finished formulation that matters and not one single component. Secondly if you want to extend the interval I suggest picking an oil and sticking with it and get a few used oil analysis done to confirm you aren't running it too long. Other than that rock on. I run 10000 mile intervals in everything on the cheapest syns I can find. No difference in engine life nor cleanliness as compared to running Amsoil exclusively for a decade prior to my switch to on sale syns.
ok, i am going to be using amsoil because of getting it cheaper than any other synthetic. are these 10,000 mile oci's in your charger or a different car? i tried to search for threads you had started in the UOA section about your cars but i can only seem to search for any post you made in any uoa thread... so did you ever run longer than 10,000 miles with amsoil or was the oil done by then? with the cheap syns is that as far as they go based on uoa's or is that just a safe distance any syn can go in your car?
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I don't mean to be rude, but you are over-thinking this, and making it WAY more complex than it needs to be. Those are fantastic results for 9k km on an inexpensive conventional oil; Honda Civic engines in general are very easy on oil. Just buy whatever 5W-30 is on sale, and run it 6 months, that will be about 14-15k km, which is totally do-able with this engine. Done.
thats the whole point smile the simple thing to do would be to continue doing 8k oci's with the cheapest oil, but im not interested in that for now-although i may go back to it. well, the 5w20 is, everything is great for the 5w30 except its a 5w20 now. i know civic engines are easy on oil. 15k km on dino or syn? synthetic sure, i would do that. i still am not convinced dino oil would make it that far if thats what you mean. but if i can get this amsoil stuff for cheaper than other synthetics and if it can go one year why not do that? again, my interests are in finding out how far the oil can go because of honda's claims, because of amsoil's claims and because i dont want to change oil so often. caring about the viscosity of the oil and not throwing caution completely to the wind comes from seeing a lot of 7th gen civics with thrown crank or rod bearings. this is also kind of a hobby and i like to learn, thats why i make it complicated smile
 
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With wear numbers like these at 9,000 km, you could go 15,000 km without issue at all. Lots of new Honda's specify syn-blend 5W-20 or 0W-20 and 16,000km intervals. But yes, if you want to go a full year and 30,000 km, you are better off with a synthetic. And I don't think you have seen 'a lot' of 7th gen Civics with spun bearings in normal use...it just isn't happening. If the engines are severely abused, sure, but in normal use, no.
 
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