21 Subaru Ascent - M1 EP 0w20

I've started at those temps with a 15w50. Fuel diluted oil should flow/pump easier at cold temp. That gasoline's freeze point and viscosity are ?? and your oil is soaked with it!

All major brands have pretty good 0w40's. I'd go as high as the 'ears' and 'eyes' allow. They are usually locally available would give you some new data points concerning viscosity.

I haven't seen a drastic change in fuel economy with grades. I prefer engine longevity over mpg. Gasoline in the oil will drop that cst enough and quickly enough that your MPG penalty would need logging to prove that there even was any.

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I absolutely agree that he is essentially playing it safe. I tried a quick search for that thread in the OB forums but couldn’t find it. I’ll have to search again when I have a little more time. Are there any key words that would help? I tried 5w30 and “JDM FA24 WRX manual” specifying the 6th gen sub forum. I think I’ve read that before but can’t recall what the thread title was or how deep in the thread it was.
It’s actually a “20-23“ sticky in the Oil forum, but the JDM WRX manual is here.

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And the 0W-30 recommendation is actually a thick Euro ACEA A3 oil.


 
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I wouldn't think ESP would get warmer faster than AFE while both being 0w30. However that's why I switched to OAI because Blackstone doesn't indicate fuel dilution. I should have done that from the start, live and learn.

I doubt I can convince my wife to use the flappy paddles on cold mornings. Between coffee, music and morning traffic she has enough distractions. lol I finally got her to stop using the remote start more than once in the morning. But this is the first year, so I don't know how that will effect it since I just started with OAI also.




You do realize what forum and sub forum you're on right? BITOG and specifically UOA's are for the overly data concerned individuals. We are not always rational people and this is a good place for us to nerd out. The FA24 is spec'd for 0w20, not sure on the FA20 but I would assume the same. A 10w30 would be just too much in my environment where we often see temps below 0F. A light 5w30 like Penzoil would probably be fine though.
Block heater! Get it at NAPA and let someone install it or DIY.
 
It’s actually a “20-23“ sticky in the Oil forum, but the JDM WRX manual is here.

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And the 0W-30 recommendation is actually a thick Euro ACEA A3 oil.



That's pretty nifty! It's too bad that it's almost impossible to get and the cost would probably be quite high. Seems like it's more closely related to 0w30 ESP than AFE. In that case, if Subaru recommends it then it should be a good choice. I found through digging a little deeper that it's made by Total-Elf. It looks like Elf Evolution 900 FT 0w30 is similar to the Pleiades 0w30. But neither are really available in the US.

Block heater! Get it at NAPA and let someone install it or DIY.

I wouldn't mind a block heater and as a previous auto tech I would have no problems installing it myself. BUT it is a lot more work than you would think. The exhaust manifold and turbo (plus other items) have to be removed to access the block plug to install a block heater. I think an oil pan heater would be easier. My only issue with either is that it will only be used when leaving home. No plug-ins at work or when we travel.

I have considered blocking off some of the radiator, but I haven't really taken the time to look it over in detail to see what should or shouldn't be blocked off. I bet just blocking off the external oil cooler would help a little bit too. Plus, I don't know how the dealer would feel about that if I brought in for warranty items.
 
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That's pretty nifty! It's too bad that it's almost impossible to get and the cost would probably be quite high. Seems like it's more closely related to 0w30 ESP than AFE. In that case, if Subaru recommends it then it should be a good choice. I found through digging a little deeper that it's made by Total-Elf. It looks like Elf Evolution 900 FT 0w30 is similar to the Pleiades 0w30. But neither are really available in the US.



I wouldn't mind a block heater and as a previous auto tech I would have no problems installing it myself. BUT it is a lot more work than you would think. The exhaust manifold and turbo (plus other items) have to be removed to access the block plug to install a block heater. I think an oil pan heater would be easier. My only issue with either is that it will only be used when leaving home. No plug-ins at work or when we travel.

I have considered blocking off some of the radiator, but I haven't really taken the time to look it over in detail to see what should or shouldn't be blocked off. I bet just blocking off the external oil cooler would help a little bit too. Plus, I don't know how the dealer would feel about that if I brought in for warranty items.
My 2015 Sienna had abysmal heat (the thermostat was fine), and as soon as it drops below 32f, it is a serious achievement to get some heat in the first 10 minutes. That vehicle had such abysmal heat, that I carried 50f cable when spending nights in the mountains with kids, and would find an outlet to hook up the block heater.
But yeah, I would not bother with all that stuff to get a block heater in. Maybe something like Webasto, if they make it for Subaru or universal one.
 
My 2015 Sienna had abysmal heat (the thermostat was fine), and as soon as it drops below 32f, it is a serious achievement to get some heat in the first 10 minutes. That vehicle had such abysmal heat, that I carried 50f cable when spending nights in the mountains with kids, and would find an outlet to hook up the block heater.
But yeah, I would not bother with all that stuff to get a block heater in. Maybe something like Webasto, if they make it for Subaru or universal one.

It actually surprises me that manufactures don't prioritize the warm-up cycle for cold climates. The EPA would probably love it, it would save fuel and prevent other long term issues. I've seen more DI engines have an issue with long warm up times in cold weather than port injection. I don't know if it's cooler cylinder temps or what causes it? Sometimes I wonder if its just an oversized cooling system or a thermostat that opens early? The Ascent has a 1500w PTC grid as well when the defrost is on. But even then it's not able to keep up sometimes. Oddly enough Subaru allows recirc with the defrost function which I've rarely seen before.

This is what I love about this site. I have never heard of Webasto or auxiliary heaters for passenger cars. This would be an amazing add-on if money was no issue. But for $1300-$1600, I can afford to burn a little more fuel and do shorter OCI's. lol
 
It actually surprises me that manufactures don't prioritize the warm-up cycle for cold climates. The EPA would probably love it, it would save fuel and prevent other long term issues. I've seen more DI engines have an issue with long warm up times in cold weather than port injection. I don't know if it's cooler cylinder temps or what causes it? Sometimes I wonder if its just an oversized cooling system or a thermostat that opens early? The Ascent has a 1500w PTC grid as well when the defrost is on. But even then it's not able to keep up sometimes. Oddly enough Subaru allows recirc with the defrost function which I've rarely seen before.
The EPA drive cycle is optimized for EGT only. ECU mapping does relate to coolant temperature though.
 
It actually surprises me that manufactures don't prioritize the warm-up cycle for cold climates. The EPA would probably love it, it would save fuel and prevent other long term issues. I've seen more DI engines have an issue with long warm up times in cold weather than port injection. I don't know if it's cooler cylinder temps or what causes it? Sometimes I wonder if its just an oversized cooling system or a thermostat that opens early? The Ascent has a 1500w PTC grid as well when the defrost is on. But even then it's not able to keep up sometimes. Oddly enough Subaru allows recirc with the defrost function which I've rarely seen before.

This is what I love about this site. I have never heard of Webasto or auxiliary heaters for passenger cars. This would be an amazing add-on if money was no issue. But for $1300-$1600, I can afford to burn a little more fuel and do shorter OCI's. lol
My BMW and VW are absolute overhyped ovens. Especially VW. Park it late at night and warms up all three car garage. Both cars need literally 2min to have decent heating in really cold weather.
 
That's pretty nifty! It's too bad that it's almost impossible to get and the cost would probably be quite high. Seems like it's more closely related to 0w30 ESP than AFE. In that case, if Subaru recommends it then it should be a good choice. I found through digging a little deeper that it's made by Total-Elf. It looks like Elf Evolution 900 FT 0w30 is similar to the Pleiades 0w30. But neither are really available in the US.
Actually, since it’s ACEA A3 vs C3 like ESP, it is only closely related to ESP in HTHS viscosity. A3 oils usually have an old school add pack with higher ZDDP and calcium.
 
I missed this reply, my bad. I'm definitely ok with stepping up one grade to a 30w but I'm reluctant to step up to a 40w, especially this early in the vehicles life. As the get closer to 100k, maybe so. But judging off my use, we won't hit 100k for another 10yrs or so. Our previous car was a 12 Fusion that we sold when we got this in Nov 2020 and it had 85k-ish when we sold it and our driving habits really haven't changed much.

I don't think this engine is used outside of North America but I do recall the FA20DIT has been used for quite a while across the world. In other countries that engine is spec'd for 5w30 or with sever duty 0w40/5w40 and many nerds like us use 5w30 in that engine, though I don't think it's quite as hard on the oil like the FA24DIT has shown to be. While the FA24DIT is based on the same architecture, nobody has gone deep enough to see that all the clearances and other factors are the same. You could argue that bearing clearances can't really get any tighter than they currently are, there are other areas of the engine that theoretically could be affected.

To counter that though, the Ascent owners manual does state that "If 0W-20 synthetic oil is not available, 5W-30 conventional oil may be used if replenishment is needed but should be changed to 0W-20 synthetic oil at the next oil change". Also there is another note that state: "Engine oil viscosity (thickness) affects fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity provide better fuel economy. However, in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is required to properly lubricate the engine." So one would assume that an energy resource conserving 0w30 should be just fine. Also some in hot areas use 5w30 in the Outbacks and Ascents with this engine.



That's why I posted this as I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to deciphering UOA's. I know this engine is still "breaking in" but I haven't seen many UOA's where a 0w20 has sheared down to essentially a 16wt. I've seen FF 0w20 on cars with over 5-10k where the 100c Vis is still at 7.00 or higher. I agree that it's odd how Subaru expects 0w20 to last 6k/6mo (OM Recommendation) miles in any circumstances. I certainly wouldn't consider our use as "severe service" that would justify 3k mile OCI's, generally I stick to 5k OCI's which I'll be changing oil again around 15K which should be 4-6wks from now. It's gently driven most of the time, in the winter it is idled for extended periods for warm-up but I wouldn't consider it excessive as Subaru remote start only allows 2 10min intervals, long road trips are usually 80mph, sometimes 85mph on the interstate but in IA, SD and NE it's small rolling hills with no large elevation changes and our city isn't large enough to consider long periods of stop and go IMO.

I agree that stepping up to a good 5w30 should be no issue either. I just prefer a 0wXX for piece of mind in our climate. I do recall that Pennzoil Platinum is a pretty tough oil and tends to be on the thinner side of a 5w30, so it would be a good choice in my eyes if the 0w30 M1 AFE doesn't pan out.

The thing about M1 0w30 AFE is that there is only 1 or 2 VOA's on it that I have seen and I haven't found a single UOA. I've tried searching but didn't come up with anything. I prefer off the shelf oils vs boutique oils I have to order online. I like to support local businesses (though Walmart is hardly what I consider local), I like to just go get it when I need/want it and generally boutique oils are considerably more expensive. Outside of Schaeffers 0w20 (VI 174 and usually lots of Moly) and M1 EP 0w20 (VI 173), I don't know if there are many boutique oils that match or better that. M1 AFE 0w30 has a VI of 166, which isn't as good as the 0w20's but I doubt it will shear down to a 16wt in 5k. Only one way to find out though. The only reason I don't consider Schaeffers a boutique oil in my case is that I can get it locally for a reasonable price. I have looked into Idemistu 0w20 as well, but it's spec sheet doesn't indicate that it would perform any better. If you know of any other 0w20's with that may hold up better, I'm all ears depending on the price of course.
You made a good choice, and you're right, the 30w won't shear down as low as the 20w. Gonna b fine and better than a 40w. It's cold up there. .02
 
My BMW and VW are absolute overhyped ovens. Especially VW. Park it late at night and warms up all three car garage. Both cars need literally 2min to have decent heating in really cold weather.

I don't have a garage right now that I can park in unfortunately. Oddly enough as I drove it this weekend it seemed to warm up better and hold temp better. We'll see about this week though with high temps being -5F and colder. The only change that I have made since last winter was a Cobb Accessport on the 87+ stage 1 tune. Not sure if they changed some parameters that affects this at all, but if they did then it's a welcome change!

Actually, since it’s ACEA A3 vs C3 like ESP, it is only closely related to ESP in HTHS viscosity. A3 oils usually have an old school add pack with higher ZDDP and calcium.

Ahh, that's good to know! I couldn't find any ACEA or ISLAC on the oil. Maybe I missed it or just couldn't find it.

You made a good choice, and you're right, the 30w won't shear down as low as the 20w. Gonna b fine and better than a 40w. It's cold up there. .02

I think you're right. Even with fuel dilution being a big factor, I feel like 0w30 is a good oil for it to reduce thinning out too much.
 
Ahh, that's good to know! I couldn't find any ACEA or ISLAC on the oil. Maybe I missed it or just couldn't find it.

SoJ’s web site has been updated and I no longer see it either. It could’ve changed, but it was ACEA A3 going back to ~2015 when I first heard about it on the Forester forum.

Someone there from Japan said it was the most popular oil to use in the last generation of the FXT.
 
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