I was just wondering if anyone is using 20w-50 right now or in the past. What vehicle/engine did you use it in? Will a 20W-50 hold it's viscosity at all or will it shear as bad as a 10W-40?
20W-50 anyone?
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I would like some PAO 20w50 to use for thickening 10w30 and 10w40s.
I have 6 qts Durablend 20w50 I got for a buck each at AA and bought some AllClimate 20w to mix with it so I can make 20w40.
But I have no use for a load of straight 20w50. Way too thick, like 20 cSt, vs 14 cSt for 10w40. Much bigger jump than from 30 to 40 wt.
Co worker uses 20w50 in his blown Corvette though.
I have 6 qts Durablend 20w50 I got for a buck each at AA and bought some AllClimate 20w to mix with it so I can make 20w40.
But I have no use for a load of straight 20w50. Way too thick, like 20 cSt, vs 14 cSt for 10w40. Much bigger jump than from 30 to 40 wt.
Co worker uses 20w50 in his blown Corvette though.
Hermann
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Lots of Harley's and BMW motorcycles use it. Using Maxlife blend 20w-50 at the present time in the BMW(47K). Hope that dose of PAO is doing some cleaning.
I was just curious because I know people buy 20w-50, Walmart stocks that weight in almost every brand, I guess some old timers are using it in trucks?
As Herman said, It's the oil spec for Evolution motors on up in the Harley Davidsons. My 1996 Road King states you can use straight SAE 50, but recommends 20W50.
I think engine design has a lot to do with the shearing. The Amsoil MCV 20W50 seems to be pretty stable but my Harleys get the oil tanks drained long before I would probably see the effects of shearing. I change out every year and I am lucky to get 2K on them in that time.
I think engine design has a lot to do with the shearing. The Amsoil MCV 20W50 seems to be pretty stable but my Harleys get the oil tanks drained long before I would probably see the effects of shearing. I change out every year and I am lucky to get 2K on them in that time.
Many older BMWs use 20w-50. The oil weight charts in the owners's manuals recommend both 15w-40 and 20w-50 for moderate climates like mine where temps rarely go below 20 even in the depths of winter. It is thick stuff, however, and I'll probably go back to a 40 wt. in my coupe when my 93 cent a quart stash of Havoline 20w-50 is gone.
I have it in my 95 4Runner diesel and have for all of its 350,000 km life so far, where temps run 50 to 90 degrees F. Toyota recommends it. But I have 15W-40 in my 99 4Runner turbo diesel that now has 105,000 km.
I have also used it in my 88 BMW 325ic for years, although I may drop it to 15W-40 to try it.
En general I recommend it for engines where 15W-40 has excess consumption.
I have also used it in my 88 BMW 325ic for years, although I may drop it to 15W-40 to try it.
En general I recommend it for engines where 15W-40 has excess consumption.
I've used maybe 50+ cases (12qt)in a 1985 Porsche 911. It's spec'd for this air cooled engine which has capacity of 14 qt (12 qt when change) and is rate by Porsche to consume 1qt/600 miles. I use 20W50 to keep it in the engine. I also used it in a high mileage 1991 Range Rover in N. California.
Sheer down ? I suspect so since consumption appears* to rise later in the OCI on the 911. *This is dry sump so getting accurate readings is difficult.
Sheer down ? I suspect so since consumption appears* to rise later in the OCI on the 911. *This is dry sump so getting accurate readings is difficult.
Currently I have 20w50 Maxlife in my 1968 Volvo 122s - I think it will be 2 years this July since the OC. It leaks badly from the rear main seal and is very rarely driven - perpetual oil change. If it didn't leak, I'd run XXw40 in it.
Used Valvoline AC 20w50 year-round in my 1989 VW Jetta, as per the owners manual recommendation. Owners manual suggested 20w50 above 14*F. It got colder than that a few times over the years i owned it, but it always started right up, even when it was parked outside covered with ice.
Never did a UOA, but never burned a drop or had any engine problems whatsoever in over 200,000 miles.
I tried Castrol GTX, Havoline, Supertech, and a few other brands but in the winter all other brands gave me HLA noise on startup except for Valvoline. For the last 100,000 miles i used Napa brand Valvoline dino 20w50.
Never did a UOA, but never burned a drop or had any engine problems whatsoever in over 200,000 miles.
I tried Castrol GTX, Havoline, Supertech, and a few other brands but in the winter all other brands gave me HLA noise on startup except for Valvoline. For the last 100,000 miles i used Napa brand Valvoline dino 20w50.
I used nothing but 20w-50 in my 1980 diesel rabbit bought new. For 289,000 miles that great little car had zero engine problems. Then it started blowing head gaskets and the sad day came when the junk man towed it away.
I use 20w-50 in my '65 Corvair during the summer months (Delo 15W-40 the rest of the year). I've been kicking around the idea of trying Lucas in it this summer, but at $6 a quart, I hate leaving half of it on the driveway!
I'll probably use MaxLife for my summer change and probably keep a couple of quarts of SuperTech for topping off.
I'll probably use MaxLife for my summer change and probably keep a couple of quarts of SuperTech for topping off.
I use Castrol GTX 20W-50 in my Mazda RX-7 for most of the year(most rotary owners do). All other weights thin out too much because of the higher gas diluation(usually caused by worn oil seals.)
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I used 20W50 in my 87 Olds Toronado Trofeo. I know a guy who`s run nothing but 20W50 in his 1990 300ZX Twin Turbo since new,and he`s now reaching 300K miles with no engine problems whatsoever and on factory original turbos.
I`d use 20W50 in my N/A Z32 if Mobil 1 made it. Therefore I go with their 15W50. The Nissan FSM recommends 15W40,15W50,20W40,and 20W50 in the Z32 if you live in a warmer climate zone.
I`d use 20W50 in my N/A Z32 if Mobil 1 made it. Therefore I go with their 15W50. The Nissan FSM recommends 15W40,15W50,20W40,and 20W50 in the Z32 if you live in a warmer climate zone.
Used 20W50 for decades. Still the only viscosity I see on sale in supermarkets etc. Cars seem to last forever with it.
Is there any proof that using 20w-50 in place of the recommended 5w-30? Maybe driving habits and weather are more important than the correct oil viscosity. I can see that really cold weather there probably is not an oil that thin enough and 20w-50 would not be a good choice.
I have Castrol GTX 20W-50 in the very used 71 Alfa Romeo I bought in December. The manual specs 20W-40, an obsolete formulation. The records show the car has always had 20W-40 or 20W-50 oil in it. As these cars run cool, I've always thought 20W-50 was too heavy, but old Alfisti swear by it. One of the reasons for the heavier oil, I think, is that the Spica mechanical fuel injection has a history of leaking fuel into the motor oil. The injection body is lubed by the engine oil and even has a miniature oil filter. Nevertheless, when I change the oil in a month or two I intend to go to a HDEO 15W-40. Have both Chevron and Castrol on hand.
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