20hrs a year, still change oil filter every year?

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Originally Posted By: boraticus
Any machine that has been brought up to operating temperature and run like that for a while will not have water in the oil when it's shut down. If stored in a shelter where it won't be rained on or have water physically pour into the engine, it will not accumulate any significant amount of moisture from condensation.

Oil condensation issues are generally caused by engines being run in cold temps and not being brought up to operating temperatures.

Run the engine until it's hot, put it away and don't sweat it. It will be fine.


This is 100% the truth. It is one major reason for motorcycle engine failure that I posted above. So many people start their bikes for 10 minutes in the Winter (dealers do it as well when storing bikes) to "keep them oiled up" and don't realize that is by far the worst thing you can do to an engine. Then 3 years later their cam bearings fail causing engine failure because pieces of the failed bearing stick in the gerotor oil pump.
 
Originally Posted By: daman

The next good run with 200-250deg oil temps will cure that..



Ummm, no it won't? I thought that too...and have ran it for an hour plowing snow and still have moisture evident in the engine internals the next time I checked the oil.

Is it really worth the chance?
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Any machine that has been brought up to operating temperature and run like that for a while will not have water in the oil when it's shut down. If stored in a shelter where it won't be rained on or have water physically pour into the engine, it will not accumulate any significant amount of moisture from condensation.

Oil condensation issues are generally caused by engines being run in cold temps and not being brought up to operating temperatures.

Run the engine until it's hot, put it away and don't sweat it. It will be fine.



As I noted previously, it can and does happen...explain to everyone how the moisture gets completely out of the crankcase? It doesn't, it "boils off", and re-condenses once the engine cools...it doesn't magically vent through the breather (unless the engine has horrible blow-by).

I also have a car that this happens to...its ran a minimum of 30 minutes, twice a day...over 50% at highway speeds. Pull that filler cap off, and yellow gunk underneath.

Not going to argue this further...it does happen, maybe not every engine is this way, but some have this issue. I have two...
 
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Any machine that has been brought up to operating temperature and run like that for a while will not have water in the oil when it's shut down. If stored in a shelter where it won't be rained on or have water physically pour into the engine, it will not accumulate any significant amount of moisture from condensation.

Oil condensation issues are generally caused by engines being run in cold temps and not being brought up to operating temperatures.

Run the engine until it's hot, put it away and don't sweat it. It will be fine.



As I noted previously, it can and does happen...explain to everyone how the moisture gets completely out of the crankcase? It doesn't, it "boils off", and re-condenses once the engine cools...it doesn't magically vent through the breather (unless the engine has horrible blow-by).

I also have a car that this happens to...its ran a minimum of 30 minutes, twice a day...over 50% at highway speeds. Pull that filler cap off, and yellow gunk underneath.

Not going to argue this further...it does happen, maybe not every engine is this way, but some have this issue. I have two...


You are correct. It get's cooked off in temperatures over 212 def. F. The water vapour/steam escapes through the crankcase ventilation tube into the carburetor intake are and passed through the engine. When the engine cools, it will not mysteriously suck all of that expelled moisture back inside. The amount of volume inside the crankcase is not significant enough to capture enough moisture to cause problems. The emulsion you see on the breather cap is where condensation will occur because it's much cooler than the crankcase and oil therein. That's why you have crankcase breathing systems.

Have you actually disassemble your engine to inspect it's internals for moisture related problems? Have ever drained the oil into a clear container, allowed it to settle to see how much moisture is in the oil?

Almost all of this ""moisture condensing in the oil" chatter is just hype to make people spend money needlessly.

If unnecessary oil & filter changes is your way of slaying dragons that don't exist and it gives you peace of mind, have at it.

However, without sufficient evidence to substantiate your claims of inevitable engine damage/failure due to a few molecules of moisture in the oil, your fears are unfounded.
 
Originally Posted By: deeter16317

As I noted previously, it can and does happen...explain to everyone how the moisture gets completely out of the crankcase? It doesn't, it "boils off", and re-condenses once the engine cools...it doesn't magically vent through the breather (unless the engine has horrible blow-by).


Your ignorance of basic engine design (not to mention physics) is hilarious.

To the OP: Use a half decent oil and filter and change it every other year, it'll be fine.
 
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guys, I have a kohler V twin that i change the oil out in every year. For me it is the fear of ingested dirt. I mow in NC and in the summer there is a lot of dust. I do a decent job of keeping the air filter clean and i take very good care of it in all others ways also. I bought a pretty good machine that cost me a little over 3K and i would like it to run as long as possible. It is now done with its seventh year and could easily pass as a 1 year old tractor. Although i have all faith that i could extend oil changes to two or three years, it is not worth the risk to me. I use 5w40 and it take two quarts. It costs me 10 dollars a year to know, not think, that the oil is fine. So over the 10 years i own it, it will cost me 100 dollars vs 50.
 
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