2024 Tundra engine OCI plan
- Thread starter ARB1977
- Start date
Look, just siphon out the dealer oil 5 miles after it’s done and run the AMSOIL for the whole change if you’re trying to preserve the dealer “work” for warranty…or…
Document the change and do it yourself.
Either way, if you think it needs better oil, then why pay extra to have the lesser oil in there half the time?
Document the change and do it yourself.
Either way, if you think it needs better oil, then why pay extra to have the lesser oil in there half the time?
100% agree
Just what I was thinking. The approach makes no sense. If you document the work properly........1) you will KNOW it is done, 2) they have no leg to stand on as far as warranty......barring the proper grade and specs anyway.
I think that an alternating oil change could have negative effects due to chemistry clash, but I am clearly no chemist
Here, that acronym is missing though or I didn'see it (you can always use Google as well):
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One thing to bear in mind is that no oil can fix defects in design, manufacture or assembly.
You can do all the right things and pony up for costly oil changed at conservative intervals and that won't ameliorate built in problems in any engine.
You can do all the right things and pony up for costly oil changed at conservative intervals and that won't ameliorate built in problems in any engine.
This line is parroted a lot here. I don't think it's quite true. There are notorious engines that don't have issues when run on boutiques but will reliably burn oil on OTS synthetics, even high quality ones (even the beloved Mobil 1 Extended Performance). Meanwhile there are fuel diluting, turbocharged Subarus that run 100s of thousands miles trouble-free on Amsoil. Agree that there's an engine design issue there, but if it can be fixed with a different oil selection, then that's worthwhile to note. For example, if you're burning yet on Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-20 in that Forester, then I suspect your time is coming soon if not already.
Yes.. it is bulk oil but can still be "GTMO" made by ExxonMobil and the oil service costs $0 during first 2 years of ownership.
Not a big deal anyways. Still have a stockpile Pennzoil Ultra Platium 0W-20 that I can switch to after few thousand miles on dealership bulk oil
One of my buddy's just had his 24' Tundra blow up on his vacation to North Carolina. The dealer up there sent him home in a new Tacoma, two and a half weeks later, he got his truck back, with a new engine. Crazy stuff. He's not mechanically inclined ,so I know there were no precautions made to his oci. He just drove it, and went by whatever the dealer recommend.
I promise you he don’t get a new engine. 24’s don’t fall under the recall. He got a short block instead. Heads, turbos and everything else is reused. Case, bearings and pistons are new.
As did I. No dealer has ever done an oil change for me and no dealer ever will as long as I have the blessing of mobility and strength sufficient to the task.
One other reason it seems to me to be complete nonsense to run inferior oil for the warranty is that the first part of the vehicle's life is by far the most critical. If you wait 5 year or 100k miles to switch to the "good oil", you've already forfeited the majority of the the benefit of that better oil. The damage is done.
On the contrary, sound logic says to run the best oil possible in the earliest stages of the vehicle's lifespan, then downgrade as the vehicle ages and you realize that the vehicle itself might have only 50k miles left tops, so there's no point in sending a pristine zero-wear engine to the junkyard.
I'm on the tail end of ownership of my old 2005 Odyssey. It's starting to fall apart after 5 years of teen/new driver usage. Does it make sense to put HPL in this thing when it's already far more pristine in the engine than the rest of the vehicle? When the transmission is perhaps questionable and the HVAC is on the fritz?
Of course not. Basic red jug max life would keep this engine alive and quite happy for the rest of its life.
The time to stop smoking and eat healthy is NOT when you are 75 years old and have one foot in the grave. The time is when you're young and have some health to preserve.
Any idea on mileage at failure? I'm just curious. When failures do happen, the mileage range seems to vary quite a bit.
To quote a line from a novel that was assigned reading back in a high school English class "Isn't it pretty to think so?"
The raison d'etre of AMSOIL Signature Series is that the oil is heavily buffered to allow for extended drain intervals. Nothing says TBN like AMSOIL Signature Series and I shake my head at some of the ridiculously short drain intervals some use with this long drain oil. I can't see how it would help a fuel diluter, although going up a grade or two probably would.
Over the years we have seen an ever changing soup d'azur, with Valvoline Restore and Protect being the current darling and HPL playing to the higher end crowd.
If and when the Subie decides to start consuming oil, I'll certainly give either Valvoline Restore and Protect or HPL a shot. Meanwhile, I can't see the need at the moment.
I don't know exactly, they have a place in NC, so they drive back and forth quite a bit, FL to NC. I can't imagine him having more that 15k on it.
I'm sure it does, but the failure rate while drop off rapidly as miles accumulate. The debris-in-engine failures tend to either fail early or never, and it's exceedingly unlikely to make it past 50k successfully only to fail at 60k, for example.
I'm waiting for some high mile-but-young-truck examples to come to the used market. I'm guessing the secondary market for Tunndras of the newer style will be tanked relative to the classic proven V8s, so it could be a buying opportunity.
Good points. On the Facebook group, quite a few have over 75k.
Watch this video first. It's a bit long,
Personally, I'd cancel that plan and stick to 5k oil changes. I'd also use 0w-30 instead of 0w-20.
Ive seen that video. I’m keeping the plan for documentation purposes. When the dealer does the 10K I syphon out their oil with Mobil 1 0w20 and reuse their filter. Every 5K I do it myself with the same oil. Next go around I’ll be using 0W30. That way it shows 0W20 when 0W30 was actually used.
I’ve had pretty good success with my past two Toyota Tacomas. 2002 and 2015. Both had six month intervals 5500-6500 oci. Neither burned oil. Both were spotless inside. The 2015 had Amsoil XL 90% of its life.
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It probably won’t hurt anything constantly swapping oil brands, but it’s not something I would do
Well, I certainly wouldn’t do it because I wouldn’t have the dealer changing my oil
He is very vocal about his recommendation for 5000 mile/6 month changes. A common theme among the examples of oil-related failures he cites that I've noticed are people getting dealer bulk 0W-20. I think he makes that recommendation for the lowest common denominator -- the people who vaguely remember they need to get their oil changed and do it once a year at a Jiffy Lube when they have an open bay special. He also makes one recommendation for everyone, whether you short trip, have all highway miles, port injection, direct injection, etc. I think if you're running the oils people here run, you're probably ok for a little more. I personally still do 5000 mile OCIs but will go over the 6 month timeframe. I don't drive 10,000 miles a year.
He makes some interesting comments about AMSOIL towards the end, around 32:25. He is not a fan. In a recent video, he talks about using their gear oil instead of the straight 75 unicorn tears Toyota transfer case fluid. Maybe things got better for him with his interactions with AMSOIL. He buys it in 55 gallon drums now.
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